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+--- Thread: philco radiobar (/showthread.php?tid=1094)


philco radiobar - philco phan - 04-26-2008

howdy gents!
i have one of these spotted locally,it's a '37 round dail model,not sure of the model number.BUT this thing has copper in the bar instead of stainless,is this original or some one replaced the stainless? either way i guess it's a good deal.$150,cab is so-so,no missing veneer,wrong knobs but the chassis is complete. if some one knows if they made a copper one let me know,thanks,phil

- philco phan - 04-27-2008

update,just picked it up,not a round dial.it's a square dial with a model 60 chassis,cab is better than i remembered,the guy thru a philco 39-6 in on the deal!!!

- philco phan - 04-27-2008

well it appears this weekend i'm talking to myself so i'll ramble on. this model 60 chassis has no cap block,don't see where one was ever here. i already recapped the radio and it is working but i have a volume issue,it plays fine then volume drops to a lower level,if i wiggle the grid cap on the 6a7 it comes back for awhile,what's up with that? any help appreciated,phil

- philco phan - 04-29-2008

HELLO..hello... [insert echo here!]
just kidding,there used to be alot more traffic here; anyway,i found 2 way out resistors and a weak 75 tube,replaced those items and now all is well,phil

- Texasrocker - 04-30-2008

Hello Philco Fan! Dont know where everybody has disappeared to these days!? Congrats, on flyin-by-the-seat of your pants getting your Radiobar working again!! As far as tubes (pentagrid-converters types) such as 6A7s acting "flaky" when wiggling them around, here are a few suggestions to improve operations I always check closely.
(1)... make sure orig tube sockets arent broken(small intermittent shorts to chassis), then carefully clean inside the sockets female individual pin connections on the socket, and carefully "squeeze" each individual socket connection with needlenose pliers to make sure tube-pins are getting good connections once tube is installed in the socket. (tightening the connections on all tube sockets in the entire set is good practice also while tubes are removed)! You will find some "loose connections" indeed!!
(2).... make sure the tube-pin connections between base of tube and glass envelope are making good electronics connections thru the tube pins! I have found many "intermittent-shorts" in the tubes themselves because the small wires that terminate at the tips of the tube-base have a "cold solder joint". Scrape the old tube pin tips clean from tarnish, then carefully re-solder all the tube-pin connections by adding abit of new solder to each tube pin on the tube.
As you know, "flaky" pentagrid-converter tubes can really be critical in proper operation of any vintage radio. Whenever I get a "flaky" intermittent problem on these tubes, ( by wiggling them), and it interferes with sets operation, the prob can usually be found around the socket connections, or cold-solder joints in the tube pins.
(3)... make sure the pentagrid-converter tube has a tube-shield in place, (if needed and used as orig design). I have found many pentagrid-converter tubes missing orig tube-shields as needed on vintage sets discarded by previous hackers. Some vintage radios need-shields, some dont, but the tubes that "do", can be as touchy as a old-maid at a stags-convention indeed when "wiggling" occurs!! Icon_wink

- Ron Ramirez - 04-30-2008

Hi Phil

Sorry for not replying sooner...

Does your Radiobar look like Madghost's Radiobar pictured in this thread?
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=1076

- philco phan - 04-30-2008

THAT'S IT!!! Do you know the model number? I think the cab was built by radiobar,mostly because of the aluminum 'PHILCO' plate nailed to the front,no decal,no cab sticker.
thanks ron,i'll get pics out this weekend,my good camera should be back by then,phil