Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-18-2016
Well, Kirk finished the cabinet which I got from him during the last Kutztown meet.
(I will have to drill the hole for the switch. Somehow it is veneered over and Kirk swore it was not him
)
The chassis is not too bad.
The speaker is another matter: although electrically it is OK, xfmr, field and all, but the cone is missing half the wavy part (almost like eaten with something) at the perimeter, and though rubber cement came to mind.....it is too muchm almost half, and surely will affect the sound quality which would be OK for a radio like 38-12 but not OK for a 16.
So I will either get a new speaker or re-cone this one which probably will be the same price.
There were repairs done prior to me, likely in 40-s: there are some bright orange tubular caps that I also encountered in Zeniths before. There was also something else, I forgot. Plus the antenna and GND clips were bent out of shape, not sure what the purpose was; I had to bent them back.
I took some pictures, will post them later.
This is going to be a battle.
Although, in all honesty, while looking underneath, I had noticed it is a better arranged chassis with easier access to parts than, say, the 18 or 118 which I have just finished.
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
Radioroslyn - 07-18-2016
If the cone unscrews you maybe able to get a foam surround. Fit it using some spray adhesive on the cone side and clamp it between the basket/cardboard washer.
Terry
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-18-2016
The cone does indeed unscrew.
What's a foam surround? Something I make or something someone makes for me?
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
Radioroslyn - 07-18-2016
There are used on modern spkrs as the flexible part that goes between the paper and frame. You don't have to make it your self you buy them but you do have to know the size, OD and width.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Speaker+foam+surrond&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=Speaker+foam+surround
Terry
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-21-2016
I extracted the tuning cap. There is a gear that has rubber coated parts. What do I do with those? Are the rubber parts being sold by anyone?
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
OldRestorer - 07-21-2016
You are going to DRILL my beautiful cabinet!
You should have told me.. I would have loved to massacre that cabinet,
Me
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-21-2016
I will be gentle. Actually I won't need it for a while so I could bring it go Kutztown so you could do it
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
Ron Ramirez - 07-22-2016
(07-21-2016, 08:08 PM)morzh Wrote: I extracted the tuning cap. There is a gear that has rubber coated parts. What do I do with those? Are the rubber parts being sold by anyone?
Look here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14970
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-22-2016
Thanks Ron,
This is exactly the answer I was looking for.
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-23-2016
So, do these wheels have grooves for the O-rings ? I hope the tires were not simply vulcanized on the cylinders with no grooves.
And the big one around the dial hub - half the circumference has separated from the metal, so do I just glue it with rubber cement or....?
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
Ron Ramirez - 07-23-2016
The small wheels do have grooves, or more correctly, rims which the O-rings will fit into. Sort of like putting solid rubber tires onto wheels. You'll have to do some scraping of the wheels to get out as much of the old rubber as you can before installing the new O-rings, unless you know of some sort of chemical that will remove rubber from metal.
As for the large rubber piece on the dial hub, I don't know...I suppose any glue that can make rubber adhere to metal will do...I haven't (yet) had to do that part.
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-24-2016
Some photos:
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-24-2016
The speaker
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-24-2016
Preliminary check shows the filter choke open....oh well. I am sure there's more to come.
RE: Philco 16B restoration -
morzh - 07-25-2016
Dunno how to explain this.....I tried the choke again just to make sure I am not ruining a good part. Still no dice. So I extracted the rivets, cut the wires really close to the base and started heating the shell in hope the choke would slide out. It did not. But then something told me to check it again....sure enough the continuity was there and the resistance was 89.7 ohm, exactly right.
So I soldered the wires back to the lugs, the choke is still fine.....
Breakage in the wires? Why? Those are multy-thread and are not subjected to mechanical stress of any sort.
Well.... I'll take it if it lasts.