16B Tombstone Missing Code # - Printable Version
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16B Tombstone Missing Code # - DannyinCleveland - 03-25-2018
Hi All,
I have a Philco model 16B Tombstone. I see in Rider's there is no specific 16B but information dependent on the code #. All my markings and labels are gone from the radio. Any suggestions to pinpoint proper schematic for my particular version of this model?
Thanks
Dan
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - Nathan Slingerland - 03-25-2018
Hi Dan - post a picture of the chassis and we should be able to help identify it pretty easily.
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - EdHolland - 03-25-2018
is it a 4 or 5 band chassis?
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - Stall-U-Rated - 03-25-2018
My code 121 cathedral uses the #80 rectifier tube..
Steve
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - Ron Ramirez - 03-25-2018
He said it is a tombstone, so it must be either a Code 121 or Code 125 (unless someone stuck a console chassis inside).
Code 121 - 5 bands, single tuning knob that pulls out and pushes in for two-speed tuning, QAVC (Quiet Automatic Volume Control = squelch control) with adjusting rheostat in back, vertical mounting power transformer, large rectangular can capacitor bank
Code 125 - 4 bands, dual concentric tuning knobs, does not have QAVC, horizontal mounting power transformer, does not have the large rectangular can capacitor bank
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - DannyinCleveland - 04-03-2018
Hi all,
Got around to taking a few pictures. More worried about the cabinet condition. Any thoughts on cabinet? The chassis is un-touched from my rough examination. A few moldy capacitors & off-value resistors. Probably good to go...certainly a fine radio set in the Philco line in the day!
RE: 16B Tombstone Missing Code # - Nathan Slingerland - 04-03-2018
You have the later 4-band (Code-125) chassis.
From the under-chassis pics it's definitely seen some service long in the past. Not uncommon - but the first step will be to try and reverse that and figure out how it went originally.
These are great performing sets when fixed up and fully recapped. You definitely want to replace the electrolytics before trying it on a variac or dim bulb tester. It may kind-of sort-of work at that point which will make it easier to go through and recap the rest of the bakelite blocks and replace any out of tolerance resistor.
It should be possible to reglue the front onto the cabinet (can you see how it was originally held together?). And of course it looks like a good candidate to refinish at some point.
