Eyelet Information Required -
Philco444 - 12-30-2018
Hi again
As per these threads:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=18226&page=2
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=12172&page=4
There is a wealth of information on the eyelets but I need just a little bit more help please and thank you!
One member mentioned he used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BL63WMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now I'm puzzled as these .152 eyelets are not 1/8 inch (.125) or 3/16 inch (.1875).
Are the typical tube socket eyelet/rivet holes larger or smaller than 0.152 inches or do holes have to be enlarged or on the other hand the are the eyelets at .152 slightly smaller?
Also as I only have one Philco (that I know of) were there variations of socket rivet/eyelet diameters and for simplicity of this question I will keep this between the dates of 1929 and 1940 as the earlier is what I gravitate to instead of 1950's-60's?
To make things a bit more complicated this is a British Philco 444 but I have noticed a number of similarities between this 444 and North American sets with the exception of the PENDD61 toob.
Sorry I haven't drilled any eyelets yet as there are no replacements in my location and this would require driving 100 plus miles round trip to hope to locate or ordering on line.
Also from what I gathered reading these threads is 5/16 inch in length is required and hopefully this is a proper length? Some of my sockets have the typical shield mounts and some do not.
Should I order both 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch in length and perhaps an assortment in different diameters? Most likely this will not be my only Philco so I'm keeping this in mind.
Also one more thing is where can one find the round headed rivets kind of like what is used for the model identification tag riveted onto the back? Cleaning can damage the ink or paint used on these tags so removal is probably a wise option including the fact the rivets are quite rusty and look rude!
My chassis isn't as bad as some that were illustrated in these threads but in some cases some are better as mine suffers from the typical oxidized Cadmium and film of surface rust in some locations. Also my attempts of cleaning have resulted in the dreaded blotchy appearance to the point of stripping the chassis down and providing a proper thorough cleaning and refinish. I'm debating on paint (which it never was) or plating which would require sending it away as I have seen others do or even using home plating where people show how to make your electrolyte, proper anodes to use with remarkable results which most certainly would look better than I'm looking at right now. Realistically there is surprisingly very little under the chassis of this 4 "valve" set and I have one of the Trader sheets with great detail including schematics.
Oh before I forget to ask, what are these eyelets normally used for so as to help me track them down if I venture out to the nearest city to search? Leather?
Don
RE: Eyelet Information Required -
Phlogiston - 12-31-2018
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=19215
RE: Eyelet Information Required -
Philco444 - 01-01-2019
Thanks Phlogiston! Actually after thinking about it, is they are used everywhere including clothing, shoes etc. so looking in the sewing upholstery shops I should be able to find an assortment. I need some of the smooth headed solid ones as well typically used for mounting the tags so eBay or Amazon will be my next search. The tools should be around as well but in a pinch one can use a Roll Pin punch for the hollow spring steel roll pins. They are a punch with a smooth round protrusion for centering into the pin to drive them in or out.
RE: Eyelet Information Required -
Phlogiston - 01-01-2019
The ones in the fabric stores are too light weight. The ones I found at Lowes are much thicker.
RE: Eyelet Information Required -
Philco444 - 01-14-2019
Thanks again Phlogiston
Locating these in my location is easier said than done requiring driving about 60 miles one way hopefully finding something. I stopped at a Walmart where they had eyelets but these fall into the flimsy category you mentioned I suspect. Trying to determine what I need without drilling an eyelet out I'm feebly attempting to measure or guesstimate using drill bits. My eyelets I can smoothly slide a 1/8 inch drill bit through the center hole. There is an unused hole directly beside a toob socket that a 11/64 inch bit can be snugly pushed through and if my questionable conversions are correct 11/64 is 4.36 millimeters or .014 inches larger than 4 millimeters. The Walmart eyelets are 4 millimeter BUT the hole in the middle certainly is larger than 1/8 inches. I brought the drill bits along to attempt to locate a suitable replacement. Would you be kind enough (please and thank you) to slide a bit through the center hole of your eyelets to determine if yours are the same size? Also what brand are yours including dimentions? Why don't I just drill out and measure some might ask? Well if finding a usable substitute to the originals is proving to be a challenge, it would result in a flimsy replacement of a nut and bolt. Yes it is a British set but American Philco most likely supplied the chassis and components and the radios were most likely just assembled across the pond with the exception of that PEN/DD/61 being unique and manufactured by Mazda Valve (ugggggg valves and tooobs) From what I see in pictures the chassis looks very similar to North American sets with the exception of tube layout and the one I.F. Transformer located under the chassis on mine. Also it uses a 78E, 6A7, and an 80 Rectifier with the typical sockets yours uses. American Philco hardware with a Bakelite cabinet possibly made by EKco.