Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-14-2020
Emptied out the Bakelite block and have the Y2 safety caps on hand.
Just checking that I don't need to worry about polarity. One lead (doesn't matter which) from each cap through a shared eyelet with no wire connections (i.e., to ground), and the two other leads through one eyelet each. Is that how it goes?
RE: Bakelite block caps -
EdHolland - 08-14-2020
Certainly there is no need to be concerned with polarity. One wire from each cap should connect to the terminal that goes to chassis ground via the screw. Just as you stated.
Have fun!
Ed
RE: Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-14-2020
Splendid—thank you Ed! I am having way too much fun with this project ....
RE: Bakelite block caps -
LarryFS - 08-14-2020
Here's a reference I keep on hand.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
klondike98 - 08-14-2020
Just an FYI...That Service Bulletin along with many others is available in our Library...
https://philcoradio.com/library/index.php/service-info/philco-service-bulletins/
RE: Bakelite block caps -
fenbach - 08-14-2020
a rookie question. why safety caps?
RE: Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-15-2020
Thank you, Larry and Bob, for the scan and link! Both now added to my folder of goodies.
(The PDF link for bulletin 289 gives the error message, "Oops! That page can’t be found.")
fenbach: the reason for safety caps is explained here (where *this* rookie read up on them):
https://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html
RE: Bakelite block caps -
klondike98 - 08-15-2020
Thanks for pointing out that broken link! We'll get it fixed.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-15-2020
Glad to be of help for once!
Before I resolder the AC supply to the block, I wonder if I should replace the cord with a new one. The original one looks a bit iffy.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
PhilcoPhan1936 - 08-15-2020
Yes! Definitely a new cord. Once they reach 50+ years old, the old insulation gets stiff and brittle, making it easier to crack, break off and short. I always replace the cord. I keep a supply of cloth covered on hand, but for yours, a standard 2-prong will do the job. A new cord will have 1 plug blade grounded (wider) than the other. Wire in the new cord with the thinner blade (hot lead) wired to the on/off switch side.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
fenbach - 08-15-2020
thanks pokey for the link to the write-up on safety caps. i didn't realize that they were across the line. am i right that safety caps are unnecessary elsewhere in the circuit? even if no harm is done.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-16-2020
Awesome, Jeff. Many thanks for the advice and the wiring clarification. Any tips on how to get the new cord/prong to fit through the chassis hole? Just checked out your website. What an enviable collection!
fenbach: Yes, my understanding is that safety caps are only needed at that point in the circuit. I am very new at this, though, so I could be wrong.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
Nathan Slingerland - 08-16-2020
Library link to the Bakelite Block service bulletin has been fixed. Here's the direct link as well:
https://philcoradio.com/library/download/service%20info/service%20bulletins/Philco%20Service%20Bulletin%20289.pdf
RE: Bakelite block caps -
Radioroslyn - 08-23-2020
Looks like your cord has a replacement plug on it which is reusable. Squeeze the two prongs towards each other and slide the plastic cover back. Then take the prongs fold them outwards. This will release it grip on the cord. Pull the cord out. Repeat in reverse order to install new cord. Wouldn't bother with a polarized plug as there isn't a shock hazard with this set. 1937 was the last year for cloth covered cords so if you have a pre '38 set it would be period correct for the cc other wise 20G zip cord is fine.
RE: Bakelite block caps -
pokey - 08-23-2020
Awesome, Terry, thanks! I threw the whole thing away a couple of days ago but trash pickup isn't till Wednesday, so I guess it's time to go dive into some garbage bags. If you don't hear from me by Tuesday, please call County Fire & Rescue.