The PHILCO Phorum
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+--- Thread: New Member (/showthread.php?tid=2358)


New Member - Guest - 04-26-2010

My name is Bryan and I live in Adamsville, Tennessee. I recently inherited a Model 16 Philco, mfg. in 1935. I have a very basic understanding of electronics, having worked for ITT Telecommunications many years ago. This radio has been in my family since it was bought new by my grandfather. I am going to rebuild it, with the hope of giving it to my only son. I've read all the suggestions about not plugging the set in and understand that all the electolytic and dry capacitors need to be changed and that I also need to check all the resistor values and replace those not within 20% of their values. Has anyone out there rebuilt a model 16? Can anyone tell me the best place to purchace a good schematic and replacemant capacitors? I also want to replace the ac line cord. Again, I'm going to need a great deal of instruction and someone with the patience to describe exactly what I need to do.Any and all info or advise would be gretly appreciated. ...Thanks in advance for everything....TennesseeCherokee..

Re: New Member - Ron Ramirez - 04-27-2010

Hi Bryan, and welcome!

Model 16 is one of the best Philco sets ever made. However, it is not an easy set to restore even for the more experienced collector. But don't let that discourage you...you can do it. And there are plenty of people here who can help you with your questions.

I have restored several Model 16 sets over the years. In my experience, the earlier, five-band 16 sets never do align properly on the two highest SW bands. But the later, four-band 16 sets are easier (if a bit more complicated, if that make sense) to properly align.

Which 16 do you have? Five bands or four? Cathedral, tombstone, or one of the consoles?

Best place for a good schematic: Chuck Schwark, Philco Repair Bench.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

Includes all pertinent data, oversize schematic, all available changes.

Best place for capacitors: Bob's Antique Radios.
http://www.radioantiques.com/

I just ordered several from him.

As for the AC cord, you will probably want to use a cloth-covered cord since that is what was used originally. There are a number of vendors who sell these, including Radio Daze, Antique Electronic Supply, Sundial Wire and others. Find the links on my site's Resources page.

Grand Brass Lamp Parts sells these with plugs already attached, so if you only need a single cord for one radio, you may wish to consider them:
http://www.grandbrass.com/catalog.cfm?category=Wire&subcategory=Cord%20Sets

Scroll down about 3/4 of the way down the page to locate their brown cloth-covered cord set, part no. WIC10FTPOBR or WIC210FTPOBR.

Good luck with your project.

Re: New Member - Ron Ramirez - 04-27-2010

Forgot to mention: You should get involved with one of the fine Tennessee radio clubs. I see you live sort of in between Memphis and Nashville.

Memphis Antique Radio Club:
http://marcradioclub.tripod.com/MARCHome.htm

Nashville (Music City) Vintage Radio Club:
http://www.musiccityvintageradio.org/

The Nashville club is having another swap meet in July. Watch their website for details.

I've never been to any of the Memphis meets as that is a bit of a drive for me, but I know a few of their members including their club President, Ray Eaton. You'll find the folks in both clubs to be good, friendly, welcoming, helpful people. Icon_smile

Re: New Member - Guest - 04-27-2010

Thank you Ron for the warm welcome and you gracious hospitality. I was born in Indiana, East Chicago. Saint Catherine's Hospital......Small world, isn't it ?

Re: New Member - Guest - 04-27-2010

Ron, The Model 16 that I now own, is a floor model standing 39 1/2" tall and 25" wide. The cabinet appears to be walnut and in really great shape with no checking and has much of it's original luster. This radio was in my grandpa's possession from 1935-1976, in Black Oak (Gary), Indiana and then in his oldest daughter's home, in Corinth,Mississippi, until last week. I will begin this project very slowly. I'm sure I'll have many questions along the way. Thanks again for your kindness and support.

Re: New Member - Guest - 04-27-2010

I have already run into my 1st. obstacle. The band selector switch is stuck and will not rotate and switch bands. I believe this set is a 5 band ? I suspect that the old lubricant has hardened and change characteristics...now acting as a glue, of sorts. Any tips on freeing this up ...or where I might purchase a salvaged band selector switch in working order? I figured, and I may be wrong, that this should be dealt with before re-capping this radio. As I've stated, I'm no electronics whiz and just figured that this should be dealt with first. Please correct me if I'm wrong.....I know all your senior members are pros at these things..Bryan..

Re: New Member - denver - 04-27-2010

If iam reading this right . your talking about tuning condenser ? You can use wd-40 spray it good use your hand to break it free .
If you try to do it with dial could break dial string . Have to take chassi out of set to do this . If wd-40 doesn,t do it pb blaster will get at auto parts store .
If the whole thing is rusty or has oxidation on it take some fine sand paper to it. In between fins ect takes time . Then blow it off with air .

Re: New Member - Guest - 04-27-2010

Mr. Denver, It is a band selector switch. There are four knobs on this set...Model 16 Console 5 Band....The top row just has one knob, the tuner. On the second row for left to right, on/off switch, band selector and I think the last one is a tone control. Ron has worked on several of these 16's and I'll yield to his vast knowledge. I am quite certain though, that the stuck switch I'm referring to is the band selector. Thank you for your time and trouble to help me......Bryan..

Re: New Member - Steve Davis - 04-29-2010

Bryan, on the model 16, the band selector also moves the dial light assembly up and down. I would first remove the light assembly to see if the problem is there or in the switch.
Steve

Re: New Member - Guest - 04-29-2010

Thank you Steve for sharing your expertise. I will definitely check the light assembly first and then move on toward the band selector switch. I'll post my finding as soon as I gather enough information. God Bless, Bryan.....