The PHILCO Phorum
Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - Printable Version

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Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - dakotado - 11-23-2010

So the cabinet restoration is pretty much complete.... I figured i would tackle the part that i am comfortable with first. I ended up stripping the whole cabinet with lacquer thinner and steel wool. The Photo finish was pretty much toast before i started Rather than use the printed paper technique, I opted to actually use real walnut burl veneer I came out pretty well, but have a couple of small questions before I finish up. I am starting on the electronics and will post into that category as well

When replacing the "Philco" decal do you topcoat it with lacquer?
What color screws were used to attach the faceplate
There is a "L" shaped metal bracket that needs to be transferred from the old faceplate to the new. What's the best way to attach it?


that topic as well[attachment=0]


Re: Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - baggrr00 - 11-25-2010

Wow, your finished cabinet looks fantastic. I have just purchased a 42-380 and also am a first timer, so if at all possible, could I ask to lean on you for advice and suggestions as I begin my adventure. My cabinet looks to be in fairly good shape, but the finish is deteriorating. Although not a woodworker, I am familiar with a auto type stripping and refinishing, and am quite an accomplishied custom painter. Working in a different medium opens up a challenge for me, but I have a basic understanding of wood refinishing and feel up to the task. My photofinish is in fair shape, Philco decal still intact, but want to refinish the whole cabinet. Your veneer replacement for the photofinish looks amazing, having never replaced veneer, could give me some tips and guidelines, or could I refinish and save the photofinish somehow. As I said, this is an all new hobby for me, and I look forward to being a student of this craft. Thanks, Kevin


Re: Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - dakotado - 11-26-2010

I would be happy to help, although there are folks on this forum with much more experience than I have. My cabinet was in good shape, but the photofinish was toast.

Tools you will need:
Clothes Iron
X-acto Knife
400 and 600 grit sandpaper
Steel wool 0 and 000
Steel ruler
Spray Mister
Green Scotch Brite pads
Disposable 1” paint brushes

Supplies
Clear gloss lacquer
Lacquer sanding sealer
Medium Walnut Lacquer toner
Wood GRAIN filler in walnut
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020580/24866/Timbermate-WB-Wood-Fill-8oz-Walnut.aspx
Lacquer Thinner
Citrusol stripper
Brown Spray Paint
Titebond II

Steps:

1. Remove all the guts of the cabinet including the antenna and speaker
2. If you look at the top of the speaker slats you will see a single slotted screw that holds them in remove the screw and push the slat inward and you can wiggle it off the dowel pin. Remove all the slats.
3. Blow out the cabinet to get rid of dust
4. Mask off the outside and the labels inside and re-shoot the interior of the cabinet with the brown paint
5. Using lacquer thinner and scotch-brite start stripping off the finish. Soak the surface well and use a cabinet scraper along going WITH the grain on the flats.
6. I hit the grooves and any stubborn areas with Citrus-sol followed by scotchbrite
7. Let dry overnight and repeat again the next day
8. I continued with lacquer thinner and 0 steel wool until clean
9. Wipe down the cabinet with a rag or paper towel wet with lacquer thinner until they come up clean.
10. Let dry overnight
11. Fill any dents/scratches with wood filler
12. Prepare for the veneer. I think this would be much easier with paper backed veneer if you can find it reasonably. These are essentially peel and stick like contact paper made of wood…. I used unfaced veneer I got off ebay
a. I made a paper template of the areas to be veneered
b. Using a steel ruler and x-acto knife cut to size
c. The area under the radio cutout is easiest to do first Do one piece at a time
d. Mask off the surrounding area and paint the console side with a thin c oat of Titebond and let dry
e. Put a second coat on the console and a single coat on the veneer and let dry
f. Heat up the Iron and then lightly mist the front(unglued) side of the veneer with water to make it flexible
g. Starting at one edge Iron the veneer onto the cabinet use a cotton rag or a paper bag between the iron and veneer to prevent scorching. Work slowly and make sure to eliminate any bubbles mist as needed to maintain flexibility
h. When you do the curved pieces next to the speaker area it is easier to work from the console side toward the speaker hole. Keep things damp to aid getting it over the curves. If you get lifting along the edge I let everything else set and then used a toothpick to transfer more glue under the lifted edge and hit it again with the iron.


13. Once the veneer was finished I sanded the entire cabinet and slats with 400 and then 600 and blew off the dust. I went over the whole thing carefully and looked for any lifting veneer or chips that needed to be repaired.
14. Thin the wood grain filler to a paste and paint on the cabinet and slats. Use a rag to work it into the grain . Cover the whole cabinet including the veneer.
15. Once dry sand again with 400 then 600. Run your hand over the wood and refill any spots with raised grain . I used sanding blocks and sandpaper wrapped around foam to get into the contours. Once I was happy I hit it with 000 steel wool. And cleaned with a lacquer thinner moistened rag blew off all the dust.
16. Spray with Sanding sealer and once again hit it with 000 wool
17. Reattach the speaker slats to the cabinet
18. I found this video to be helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Enyd1JEO9pE
19. Use the toner in multiple light coats to get where you want from a color perspective
20. Topcoat with gloss lacquer then 000 wool again and blow off dust
21. 2 more coats of gloss then 000 again add the decal and one more coat of lacquer.


Re: Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - codefox1 - 11-26-2010

Wow, one of the best posts I've ever seen on the subject. I do like to take my time between steps, depending on the temperature/humidity variables, glues, sealants, finishes

I do like to follow up a couple of times a year with a little lemon oil on a very soft pad of cotton (i.e. an old white t-shirt) to clean gently clean the surface.


Re: Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - dakotado - 11-26-2010

Thanks for the compliment...I may be new to old radios, but as i said before not new to furniture making and refinishing. I decided to go with the veneer as I was worried about the durability of Inkjet ink to UV and masking the white edges of the paper once it was cut to size. It was a little more work, but i think looks better overall.


Re: Update: 42-380 First timer with a few questions - baggrr00 - 12-03-2010

Thanks for the laundry list and awesome directions, as I look forward to my upcoming project. Your finished cabinet is very inspiring. From what I can gather, it looks as though I've got a good foudation as my cabinet is in very sound shape. The veneer replacing your photofinish looks amazing, I hope I can achieve results as outstanding as yours. Thanks again, and so, my adventure begins.