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Philco 46-806 audio out - Printable Version

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Philco 46-806 audio out - henrypal - 02-11-2013

According to the circuit, the audio output is 35A5E valve, I have to replace the valve 35A5, are compatible connections and features two valves?

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - Radioroslyn - 02-11-2013

Shouldn't be a problem all 35A5 where created equal.
Terry

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - henrypal - 02-11-2013

And that identifies the "E", that differentiates the two valves.

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - Radioroslyn - 02-11-2013

Best I can tell it's to denote the manufacture.
Terry

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - Ron Ramirez - 02-11-2013

The "E" stands for European. The characteristics are slightly different than American tubes without the "E" suffix. As an example, the 35A5E will have its suppressor grid tied to the control grid instead of to the cathode.

An American 35A5 should work well in place of a 35A5E.

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - Electrothaumaturgist - 02-12-2013

Doesn't the line voltage in Europe run 250+ volts, and if that is the case, wouldn't foreign sets have been calibrated to run at higher voltages, or were they all internally universally standardized?

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - Ron Ramirez - 02-12-2013

The AC/DC 46-806 has a ballast resistor which could be inserted one of two ways in its socket. When the set is operated in the 230 volt position, extra resistance drops the line voltage to 115; in the 115 position, a jumper wire allows the full line voltage to be used in the set.

I have a 46-806 which uses one of these ballasts. My 42-761 also uses a two way ballast - different type than the 46-806, though.

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - henrypal - 02-12-2013

Philco 46-806 In my case, the ballast is in the position of 230 V, corresponding to power Argentina (220 Vca).

RE: Philco 46-806 audio out - wa2ise - 02-15-2013

I have one of these:

[Image: http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/ph46-806.jpg]

A previous owner/repairman in Lima Peru had changed the tube sockets to accept octal tubes for some of the tubes, and hacked in an autoformer in place of the ballast. I took that out, did a recap, and used a capacitor to drop 230V@60Hz to feed the heater string. And a resistor to drop some the 230VAC for the rectifier (you get more B+ in 230VAC mode, which makes for more audio output with a 35L6 (the above octal replacement) and some more gain for the front end and IF amp.