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Philco 38-62 restoration - Printable Version

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Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 02-21-2013

I decided to just tear right into this tabletop I picked up recently and hopefully get it done in a few days.

First up I unmounted the power transformer so I could strip the rust and repaint it. I also started removing rust from the chassis.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8366/8496456008_73bd201e7a_c.jpg]

Next up, I restuffed the three section electrolytic, bakelite blocks and paper caps.

I used brown hot glue to plug up the cardboard tubes.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8495352197_3e86ff837a_c.jpg]

I carefully cut the can right about where the clamp goes and gutted it. The paper sleeve and clamp hold it back together very firmly .
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8106/8495352989_7c61cf031f_c.jpg]

Here it is after restuffing.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8495352707_5ec5e7bf6a_c.jpg]

Both controls were frozen up more solid than any I've encountered before. Eventually, with the aid of some penetrating oil, rust dissolver and heat, I got the band switch working Icon_smile

The volume control/power switch wasn't quite so easy. I found evidence someone had pried it open and tinkered with it in the past and was ready to write it off as a lost cause. I kept at it though and finally got it working quite well, but in the process ruined the metal tension ring.

Here's the damaged control on the left and a good one. Any suggestions on replacing that ring ?
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8496455192_f573c0a2bd_c.jpg]

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Arran - 02-21-2013

By the tensioning ring do you mean the "C" clip that fits in a groove on the control's shaft? I would try removing one from a scrapped control and see if that fits, you need a sharp flat bladed screwdriver to push them off the shaft, sometimes you need to pry the ends open with a jewelers screwdriver or something first.
Regards
Arran

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - klondike98 - 02-21-2013

I suspect your local hardware store will have a series of different sizes of these "C" type retainer rings. One might be close enough to do the job if you don't have one.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Arran - 02-21-2013

The trouble is that the usual hardware store "C" clips are completely different from the ones used on potentiometer shafts, the ones they use on controls go almost 360 degrees around and are pinched closed. The only thing I can think of is maybe cutting a slot in a thin washer and prying it open, and then pinching it closed again over the shaft.
Regards
Arran

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 02-21-2013

Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking about trying a split washer too. Salvaging one from another pot might be easier though.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 02-22-2013

It turned out to be surprisingly easy to pry one out of another pot and squeeze it onto this one Icon_smile They are made out of a rather soft metal.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Arran - 02-22-2013

I can't remember what they are made out of but it may be aluminum. In any even at least you found a replacement ring, it's always nice to be able to salvage an original pot when you can.
Regards
Arran

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 02-22-2013

I'm think I'm in the home stretch. Just some chassis cleaning to do then I'll put it all back together.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8509/8499015752_647ec732bb_c.jpg]

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-02-2013

The chassis has been de-rustified and polished, but is discolored and pitted in areas. Perhaps I'll fill in the pits and paint it someday.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8516065353_88fec159fb_c.jpg]

I also finished recapping the chassis. Only one resistor was out of spec. I think you can spot the replacement ;)
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8520652488_2cd8636754_c.jpg]

More importantly, does it work ?
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8519539263_d7c6de3b6b_c.jpg]

Yes, it sure does. I did a little IF tweaking by ear and it has loads of gain Icon_biggrin
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8520652740_dafac79330_c.jpg]

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Phlogiston - 03-02-2013

Don't paint the chassis. Either leave it like it is or replate it.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - morzh - 03-02-2013

I also never understood painting chassis. Unless that was how it was originally, to me the chassis is metal, to be contacted every time you need a Ground. Best left unpainted.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-03-2013

I've painted a few in the past that were very corroded. Partly for appearance and partly to prevent the corrosion from returning.

Here's an Admiral TV chassis I recently painted that was very nasty from rodent activity.

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8236371539_3ce8bf247f_z.jpg]

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8242057361_d0746d3023_z.jpg]

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - Ron Ramirez - 03-03-2013

I have likewise painted chassis for the same reasons.

Krylon Satin Nickel is conductive, and looks decent. It's not like that awful aluminum paint some folks have used.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - morzh - 03-03-2013

Bob

Looks nice.
As long as the paint is conductive and is not separated from the metal by non-conductive primer, I guess it's OK.

I am (actually currently) dealing with the certification to EMI/Safety stds of a devicde that had every plate in its box anodized...what a PITB. We had to scrape the anodizing to make the box conduct. It was radiating like heck. Chassis should be conduictive.

RE: Philco 38-62 restoration - codefox1 - 03-03-2013

Scrape off the rodentia and coat with shellac. Easily reversable for more picky future owners.