ID'ing my 41-300 for restoration. - Printable Version
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ID'ing my 41-300 for restoration. - Generic_Eric - 05-17-2013
I recently purchased a 41-300 under the pretense that it was working, I am beginning to think that it just lights up. I am in the process of resolving that with the seller.
Having said that, everything I read says you should replace/renew the electronics. I am looking for some beginner advice.
Most notably,
What is a the best source of tubes?
Is there an index that matches Philco radios to the type of grille clothes?
It could stand to be refinished. Does anyone have a resource of brochures or other info that could describe how the original was done?
There are holes directly above the pushbuttons for the call signs. I haven't seen a clear enough picture to understand what is missing.
Thanks
RE: ID'ing my 41-300 for restoration. - Ron Ramirez - 05-17-2013
Hi and welcome!
Why do sellers claim a set "works" if, when they plug it in, that some of the tubes light up but nothing else happens?
Well, here's the inside scoop on your set. It is a very nice radio and capable of great sound. That's the "pro" of the 41-300. The con: Rubber-covered wiring. Like all Philcos made between 1939 and 1942, your 41-300 is full of wires insulated with rubber. The rubber has a bad habit of drying out and flaking off the wires, which can create a safety hazard. These must be replaced for safety and reliability.
There are three ways to do this:
1. Remove the insulation from each wire, one at a time, by unsoldering one end and then adding the proper length of color-coded heat shrink tubing over the bare wire. Then resolder and move on to the next wire. This will have to be done to every rubber insulated wire in the radio. I don't care of the rubber is still soft and pliable. Check it again in 20 years and get back to me; if it isn't hardened yet, it surely will be sooner or later.
2. Unsolder one end of each wire and put color-coded heat shrink tubing over the old wire, including the old, brittle insulation; then resoldering that end and moving on to the next wire.
3. Replace each wire in the set with new, plastic coated wire of the proper size and color.
I used to think that it was a bit easier to use method 1 above, but after redoing a couple Philcos recently with rubber-covered wires and trying method 3, I think I like that method better. I do not recommend method 2. In my opinion, if the job is worth doing at all, it is worth doing right.
Now to answer your questions in order:
What is a the best source of tubes?
My opinion: Bob Dobush - http://www.findatube.com/
Keep in mind, though, that tubes in an old radio are often still good. They should not be replaced unless they are known to be bad.
Is there an index that matches Philco radios to the type of grille clothes?
Nope. There is no grille cloth available at this time. Radio Daze and Kenny Richmond are both working on bringing back some of the patterns that were available as reproductions, but I think the 41-300 used something very plain and generic as you can't really see the cloth in that model anyway?
I had an idea of trying to put together an index of which reproduction cloth matched what Philco models, and then the person who formerly supplied reproduction cloth retired because the company that was making the cloth for him quit making it. So, that put an end to that idea.
It could stand to be refinished. Does anyone have a resource of brochures or other info that could describe how the original was done?
Here, I will defer to others more skilled in cabinet refinishing than I. I will ask, however: Are you sure it needs to be refinished, or does it just have some minor scratches/scuffing? That can be corrected, to a certain extent, without refinishing.
There are holes directly above the pushbuttons for the call signs. I haven't seen a clear enough picture to understand what is missing.
Just look here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=4355
RE: ID'ing my 41-300 for restoration. - Generic_Eric - 05-17-2013
Thanks for the detailed reply. I see your point on method 2. Really its just dirty, but upon removing the dirty, it reveals a bit of uneven "sun exposure." I read about using some sort of paste wax to fill the minor scuffs. The wood is so dry and soft, I managed to gouge it with my fingernail while cleaning it.
I still have the on/off tab. I thought there might be plexi or similar covering the paper. Just noticed its only paper.
RE: ID'ing my 41-300 for restoration. - Electrothaumaturgist - 05-17-2013
I am happy to announce that I recently downloaded Chuck Schwark's call tabs for my (now,sisters') 42-400, onto plain computer paper, and the results were amazing. Just cut them down to size, then cut some stiff clear flat plastic packaging to the right size (it took a few attempts for that) to just slip over the top and snap in, and voila! It really looks original!!! (And I tested it by running a soft rag over the top to see if any would snag, but all is good). I am really, really happy with the results!!! I will attempt to post some new images of that soon (with the proper image size). Thank you VERY much, Mr. Schwark!!! (And all others who helped me on this phorum!!!).
