Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer - Printable Version
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Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer - OldRestorer - 03-17-2014
I am re-repairing my 6050 and someone at one time just threw a 50 uf Ecap under the chassis to replace the 40 20 that was there.
I had started by just replacing the 50 with a new 50 but was still getting a loud unchanging buzzing from the speaker so I ditched that idea.
I have removed the Ecap and have put in the new 47 and 22 Ecaps to their marked terminals but want to make sure I am getting the grounding right.
I have both negatives twisted and going to one of the outer twist lock terminals of the can. the can says negative is the can so is this correct?
Lastly, Where they put in the replacement cap is now not needed so I just clip it out and don't need to do anything else right?
Here are some pics:
RE: Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question - exray - 03-17-2014
Looks like that 50uf is in backwards. Make sure you didn't make that same mistake in the restuff.
RE: Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question - OldRestorer - 03-17-2014
I thought that too but Thats how the other one was in. I'm guessing thats why it was making all that buzzing but I turned it around and it still has the loud buzzing. Hoping the re-stuff will fix it. All wires and caps were replaced so I don't know what else it could be.
I'm not good with trouble shooting as can be seen...
RE: Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer - codefox1 - 03-18-2014
If it is any help, an electolytic stuffed in backwrds is likely to blow open or short depending on the fusisters put in place. Best replace everything in voltage divider network and get a handle on current draw with a good old fashioned DC ammeter to find the gremlin. Work from the output stage "backwards" to the antenna. Best of luck.
RE: Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer - Eliot Ness - 03-18-2014
Can you look at the chassis and tell us which version you have?
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/327/M0017327.pdf