<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Other Radios/Phonographs (Non-Philco)]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/ Sat, 24 Oct 2026 03:39:07 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Grundig 5088]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26768 Wed, 21 Oct 2026 20:17:40 -0500 vecher]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26768
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Skip]]> <![CDATA[Broken Diddle Stick removal from IF Can Core]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26762 Tue, 13 Oct 2026 11:47:03 -0500 captainclock1988]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26762 Does anyone have any experience with this issue and if so what did you do to remove the diddle stick remains from the IF Can? Is it a matter of having to completely disassemble the IF Can or is it simpler than that?

Any help with this issue would be appreciated.]]> Does anyone have any experience with this issue and if so what did you do to remove the diddle stick remains from the IF Can? Is it a matter of having to completely disassemble the IF Can or is it simpler than that?

Any help with this issue would be appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[1960 Zenith C845Y Issues]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26760 Tue, 13 Oct 2026 11:40:40 -0500 captainclock1988]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26760
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.]]>
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.]]> <![CDATA[Stromberg Carlson 1500 Squeal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26753 Sat, 10 Oct 2026 09:31:45 -0500 dconant]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26753 Working on the above. Caps all replaced as well as out of tolerance resistors. Radio plays but there is a bad squeal when a station is tuned in. When not on a station the squeal is not present. I have moved wires around a little but no change. Tubes all test good.

Thank you,
Dan]]> Working on the above. Caps all replaced as well as out of tolerance resistors. Radio plays but there is a bad squeal when a station is tuned in. When not on a station the squeal is not present. I have moved wires around a little but no change. Tubes all test good.

Thank you,
Dan]]> <![CDATA[Phonofor telegraph equipment New Zealand]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26725 Thu, 24 Sep 2026 05:03:52 -0500 Antipodal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26725 I  have come across a   New Zealand newspaper article from 1911 which describes a demonstration  here  in Wellington  , our capital city , of a piece of apparatus called a "Phonofor " .  This equipment allowed voice transmission along a morse telegraph line of over 100 miles long apparently as clear as a bell with none of the buzzing which apparently characterised attempts at trying to send voice messages along a telegraph line usually dedicated to morse transmission. 
The reason I am interested is because this demonstration , to a small group of interested railway personel back in 1911 was conducted by my great grandfather who was at that time the second in charge electrical engineer for  the New Zealand Government  Railways. 
Another newspaper cutting describes him overseeing the installation of electric lighting in the Invercargill locomotive roundhouse, current being provided by a gas engine and generator installed nearby.
If anyone can throw any light on what the Phonofor was and /or how it worked I would be very grateful. The reason I have tried here on the Phorum is because New Zealand Railways did source much of its equipment from the United States, Baldwin locomotives being one such . Thanks everyone.]]> I  have come across a   New Zealand newspaper article from 1911 which describes a demonstration  here  in Wellington  , our capital city , of a piece of apparatus called a "Phonofor " .  This equipment allowed voice transmission along a morse telegraph line of over 100 miles long apparently as clear as a bell with none of the buzzing which apparently characterised attempts at trying to send voice messages along a telegraph line usually dedicated to morse transmission. 
The reason I am interested is because this demonstration , to a small group of interested railway personel back in 1911 was conducted by my great grandfather who was at that time the second in charge electrical engineer for  the New Zealand Government  Railways. 
Another newspaper cutting describes him overseeing the installation of electric lighting in the Invercargill locomotive roundhouse, current being provided by a gas engine and generator installed nearby.
If anyone can throw any light on what the Phonofor was and /or how it worked I would be very grateful. The reason I have tried here on the Phorum is because New Zealand Railways did source much of its equipment from the United States, Baldwin locomotives being one such . Thanks everyone.]]> <![CDATA[Field Coil repair question]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26716 Sat, 19 Sep 2026 10:14:02 -0500 Hamilton]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26716
The larger wire in the middle with the piece of heat shrink is where the correct wire needs to be attached. I get continuity between wires 1 and 2. Does that mean that I should solder them together and attach #3 to the larger wire with the heat shrink. I’ve never worked on a speaker field coil before.

Or should I just remove all the tape from surrounding the rest of the field coil and then try to determine where these wires go?

I do have some #38 wire but never used it before. What is the best way to solder these wires together?
.jpeg IMG_3111.jpeg Size: 1.17 MB  Downloads: 202
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The larger wire in the middle with the piece of heat shrink is where the correct wire needs to be attached. I get continuity between wires 1 and 2. Does that mean that I should solder them together and attach #3 to the larger wire with the heat shrink. I’ve never worked on a speaker field coil before.

Or should I just remove all the tape from surrounding the rest of the field coil and then try to determine where these wires go?

I do have some #38 wire but never used it before. What is the best way to solder these wires together?
.jpeg IMG_3111.jpeg Size: 1.17 MB  Downloads: 202
]]> <![CDATA[Radio back from RadioAttic??]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26711 Tue, 15 Sep 2026 21:55:02 -0500 fenbach]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26711
https://radioattic.com/item.htm?radio=1600343

Does anyone know if these backs are available through RadioAttic. Or another supplier? I don't see any way to communicate with Radio Attic. I do find reproduction backs with no printing at

https://everythingradio.com/product/zenith-6d628/
.jpg Millward_Zenith_6-D-628_back.jpg Size: 85.25 KB  Downloads: 74
]]>
https://radioattic.com/item.htm?radio=1600343

Does anyone know if these backs are available through RadioAttic. Or another supplier? I don't see any way to communicate with Radio Attic. I do find reproduction backs with no printing at

https://everythingradio.com/product/zenith-6d628/
.jpg Millward_Zenith_6-D-628_back.jpg Size: 85.25 KB  Downloads: 74
]]> <![CDATA[Westinghouse WR370 control specs needed.]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26703 Thu, 10 Sep 2026 14:31:28 -0500 murf]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26703 Looking at the schematics in my Riders volume 11, it shows no parts list. Need the specs for this control. Was replaced years ago(butchered) by some electronics wizard. I want to install a new or used control and patch up the wiring. I talked to one guy who said it is a 2 Meg max control. Not sure where that number came from, but I want to verify this before ordering a different control. Noticed that the control he put in there has the string of 3 lugs around the perimeter like most, but does not have the other single lug on the opposite side as shown on the schematic.
Any suggestions?
murf]]> Looking at the schematics in my Riders volume 11, it shows no parts list. Need the specs for this control. Was replaced years ago(butchered) by some electronics wizard. I want to install a new or used control and patch up the wiring. I talked to one guy who said it is a 2 Meg max control. Not sure where that number came from, but I want to verify this before ordering a different control. Noticed that the control he put in there has the string of 3 lugs around the perimeter like most, but does not have the other single lug on the opposite side as shown on the schematic.
Any suggestions?
murf]]> <![CDATA[current project a Sony CF-320 am/fm cassette]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26702 Wed, 09 Sep 2026 23:14:59 -0500 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26702 I’ve got a 1970s Sony CF-320 portable radio on my bench for repair. So far, I’ve replaced two of the three rubber belts and about five electrolytic capacitors. One was a 2200µF at 10 volts, but it only measured around 110 pF—definitely done for—so I swapped it with a 2200µF at 16 volts. There was some foam padding taped over the wires that had deteriorated, and I’ll post photos of it. I’m curious what others have used as a replacement. One thing I could really use is the service manual, as this is the one model missing from my Sony documentation. Here’s a photo showing the radio and its condition.

Also couple of the other capacitors that were bad were a couple of .47 ufd electrolytics I replaced with some film capacitors instead . they were basically a 15 ohm resistor they were so leaky .

Sincerely richard
.jpeg copy sony radio.jpeg Size: 451.75 KB  Downloads: 143
]]> I’ve got a 1970s Sony CF-320 portable radio on my bench for repair. So far, I’ve replaced two of the three rubber belts and about five electrolytic capacitors. One was a 2200µF at 10 volts, but it only measured around 110 pF—definitely done for—so I swapped it with a 2200µF at 16 volts. There was some foam padding taped over the wires that had deteriorated, and I’ll post photos of it. I’m curious what others have used as a replacement. One thing I could really use is the service manual, as this is the one model missing from my Sony documentation. Here’s a photo showing the radio and its condition.

Also couple of the other capacitors that were bad were a couple of .47 ufd electrolytics I replaced with some film capacitors instead . they were basically a 15 ohm resistor they were so leaky .

Sincerely richard
.jpeg copy sony radio.jpeg Size: 451.75 KB  Downloads: 143
]]> <![CDATA[Late 1960s Toshiba Model 8P-823F AM/FM Radio issues]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26693 Fri, 04 Sep 2026 17:53:30 -0500 captainclock1988]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26693
See Pictures below.

Any Help with this would be appreciated.

P. S. this is apparently a very rare radio, because I've not seen very many of this radio out there, it actually took me several months of scouring ebay just to find the parts unit for this radio to get it going, and the fact that its only covered in Sam's and that's it kind of goes to show this wasn't a very common radio (and was probably very expensive in its day) its a rather unique looking radio as its actually half the size of most transistor radios of its time (it only measures about an 1" thick whereas most other radios like it were about 3 or 4 inches thick at the time, and on top of that its got 2 IF Stages for the AM and 3 IF Stages for the FM, an RF Section for the AM and FM, and the audio output is rated for a 1/4 watt which is really hot considering most radios at that time barely put out an 1/8th of a watt.

.jpg Toshiba AM-FM Radio Rear View.JPG Size: 3.9 MB  Downloads: 59

.jpg Toshiba AM-FM Radio Front View.JPG Size: 154.18 KB  Downloads: 56
]]>
See Pictures below.

Any Help with this would be appreciated.

P. S. this is apparently a very rare radio, because I've not seen very many of this radio out there, it actually took me several months of scouring ebay just to find the parts unit for this radio to get it going, and the fact that its only covered in Sam's and that's it kind of goes to show this wasn't a very common radio (and was probably very expensive in its day) its a rather unique looking radio as its actually half the size of most transistor radios of its time (it only measures about an 1" thick whereas most other radios like it were about 3 or 4 inches thick at the time, and on top of that its got 2 IF Stages for the AM and 3 IF Stages for the FM, an RF Section for the AM and FM, and the audio output is rated for a 1/4 watt which is really hot considering most radios at that time barely put out an 1/8th of a watt.

.jpg Toshiba AM-FM Radio Rear View.JPG Size: 3.9 MB  Downloads: 59

.jpg Toshiba AM-FM Radio Front View.JPG Size: 154.18 KB  Downloads: 56
]]> <![CDATA[The $15 Zenith C835R is recapped and playing.]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26687 Sun, 30 Aug 2026 12:42:30 -0500 Jayce]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26687 <![CDATA[Giving a Zenith H725Z a second chance.]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26667 Thu, 20 Aug 2026 08:25:58 -0500 Jayce]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26667 After the 35c5 issue on my 60's Zenith K725 was caught on my 'new' Sencore checker, I decided to dig this radio out and check the tubes in it and also clean the sockets. Well, turned out it had a bad 6BJ6 and luckily I had a good one in a parts radio. I put the radio back together and it played great... for ten minutes then went almost totally blind on both FM and AM. This was on Tuesday and I just gave up and put it away. Yesterday I got it back out and went through the tubes again. Even my tube checker was acting odd and I figured out the issue was most of the sockets on this radio were really filthy! The first cleaning must have brought the gunk loose, but it stuck to the tube pins. After cleaning the sockets again, including the ones I used on my tester the radio came back to life and is working great on both AM and FM. It is even easier to tune on FM than it originally was. The dial cord stays fine as long as I don't tune it all the at to the very bottom of the dial. Now this is the only bakelite and also the oldest working Zenith AM-FM in my collection.

On a side note, I got away with one mistake. I forgot this model uses two 6BJ6 tubes and accidentally put it on the checker after setting it up for a 12BA6! I wondered why the filament was so bright and why it was testing strange and then quickly pulled it off the tester. Luckily, the tube survived as I have no more spares of those.]]> After the 35c5 issue on my 60's Zenith K725 was caught on my 'new' Sencore checker, I decided to dig this radio out and check the tubes in it and also clean the sockets. Well, turned out it had a bad 6BJ6 and luckily I had a good one in a parts radio. I put the radio back together and it played great... for ten minutes then went almost totally blind on both FM and AM. This was on Tuesday and I just gave up and put it away. Yesterday I got it back out and went through the tubes again. Even my tube checker was acting odd and I figured out the issue was most of the sockets on this radio were really filthy! The first cleaning must have brought the gunk loose, but it stuck to the tube pins. After cleaning the sockets again, including the ones I used on my tester the radio came back to life and is working great on both AM and FM. It is even easier to tune on FM than it originally was. The dial cord stays fine as long as I don't tune it all the at to the very bottom of the dial. Now this is the only bakelite and also the oldest working Zenith AM-FM in my collection.

On a side note, I got away with one mistake. I forgot this model uses two 6BJ6 tubes and accidentally put it on the checker after setting it up for a 12BA6! I wondered why the filament was so bright and why it was testing strange and then quickly pulled it off the tester. Luckily, the tube survived as I have no more spares of those.]]> <![CDATA[Westinghouse 813 Volume Issue]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26666 Wed, 19 Aug 2026 14:21:24 -0500 bobclausen]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26666 https://radio.codegods.ca/sites/default/...west37.jpg

I’m working on a Westinghouse 813X. I’ve replaced all the caps, replaced all the old rubber wire, updated all the resistors and tubes. The voltages are a bit higher but well within reasonable. 

The radio does work but the volume is problematic. When I turn the volume control all the way, the radio goes quiet. if I attach a wire from the antenna lug to the grid cap of the 6L7 tube, the radio’s volume is good. Turn the volume up again and it goes silent. 

Just hoping someone can provide some advice as to where I should start troubleshooting. I do have a spare volume control but have not tried it on the radio yet. Is that where I should start troubleshooting and what causes the increase in volume when that wire is attached?

I appreciate any and all suggestions.]]> https://radio.codegods.ca/sites/default/...west37.jpg

I’m working on a Westinghouse 813X. I’ve replaced all the caps, replaced all the old rubber wire, updated all the resistors and tubes. The voltages are a bit higher but well within reasonable. 

The radio does work but the volume is problematic. When I turn the volume control all the way, the radio goes quiet. if I attach a wire from the antenna lug to the grid cap of the 6L7 tube, the radio’s volume is good. Turn the volume up again and it goes silent. 

Just hoping someone can provide some advice as to where I should start troubleshooting. I do have a spare volume control but have not tried it on the radio yet. Is that where I should start troubleshooting and what causes the increase in volume when that wire is attached?

I appreciate any and all suggestions.]]> <![CDATA[Bad 35c5 in 60's Zenith K725 killed the FM?]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26660 Thu, 13 Aug 2026 17:15:04 -0500 Jayce]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26660 <![CDATA[GE Model 210 AM Sensitivity]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26653 Sat, 08 Aug 2026 19:16:18 -0500 Joe Rossi]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26653