<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Test Equipment]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/ Sat, 24 Oct 2026 08:12:41 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[RCA Tube Tester Model 156 Broken]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26668 Fri, 21 Aug 2026 20:34:51 -0500 Mr. Radio-Man]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26668
Thanks.]]>
Thanks.]]> <![CDATA[EICO 666: Troubleshooting and rebuilding]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26661 Fri, 14 Aug 2026 11:31:40 -0500 DeckApe]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26661
I have two of these beasts, one of which may well end up being a parts donor for the other.  (The formerly functioning one started failing all tubes the last time I used it some years ago.)  I'll start with replacing the power cords, as the rubber/vinyl/whatever jackets are getting tacky. So, question #1:

Is there any reason I shouldn't put a polarized plug on these critters (hot side appears to go right to a fuse before it goes anywhere else in the cabinet)?  I can't think of any reason, but I'm just a junior apprentice in the shop.  I just need to get these projects finished (started Icon_lol ) while I can still hold a soldering iron reasonably steady.]]>
I have two of these beasts, one of which may well end up being a parts donor for the other.  (The formerly functioning one started failing all tubes the last time I used it some years ago.)  I'll start with replacing the power cords, as the rubber/vinyl/whatever jackets are getting tacky. So, question #1:

Is there any reason I shouldn't put a polarized plug on these critters (hot side appears to go right to a fuse before it goes anywhere else in the cabinet)?  I can't think of any reason, but I'm just a junior apprentice in the shop.  I just need to get these projects finished (started Icon_lol ) while I can still hold a soldering iron reasonably steady.]]> <![CDATA[Conar 224 Tube Tester]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26640 Tue, 28 Jul 2026 12:01:17 -0500 dconant]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26640
.jpg Schematic.JPG Size: 125.97 KB  Downloads: 91
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.jpg Schematic.JPG Size: 125.97 KB  Downloads: 91
]]> <![CDATA[Reasonable Price for a Tube Tester]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26619 Tue, 14 Jul 2026 22:04:25 -0500 jrblasde]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26619
This seems a bit steep. I say that because I’ve seen a few on auction at our local monthly Heartland Antique Radio Association club meetings for $30-$40. Granted, all the ones I’ve seen need some electrical work, so I’m comparing apples to oranges.]]>
This seems a bit steep. I say that because I’ve seen a few on auction at our local monthly Heartland Antique Radio Association club meetings for $30-$40. Granted, all the ones I’ve seen need some electrical work, so I’m comparing apples to oranges.]]> <![CDATA[Using cheap LCR meter]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26580 Tue, 23 Jun 2026 13:22:20 -0500 462ron]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26580
Ron
.jpeg IMG_3556.jpeg Size: 4.33 MB  Downloads: 156
]]>
Ron
.jpeg IMG_3556.jpeg Size: 4.33 MB  Downloads: 156
]]> <![CDATA[Calibrating Heathkit IG-102 Signal Generator]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26578 Tue, 23 Jun 2026 00:48:21 -0500 glyphmon]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26578
I've done two alignments (by ear, hopefully have a working VTVM on the way) on the RCA 6K3 so far with this and 1370 AM, our most local of stations, is pretty reliably coming in when the dial is at 1400, so I'm thinking the signal generator may be off.

Preface with the fact that the dial pointer is aligned as indicated in the manual.
The calibration procedure begins with some basic steps, getting the signal generator on band B, modulation on EXT MOD, and the other front settings, positioning of the output cable.  The final initial step is turning on the signal generator and the radio and let them warm up for 15 minutes.

For this process, I'm either going to be using my truck's radio, or another solid-state radio, but probably the truck's since it has digital tuning and I can make sure we're on the exact frequency.

The manual then goes on to state:
Quote:The following procedure will be used to calibrate the Generator.
First, a signal of known frequency is tuned in on the AM radio. Then the dial pointer of the Generator is set to the exact frequency of the station the radio is tuned to. The RF oscillator is then tuned to the same frequency as the radio station by adjusting it until a zero beat is heard in the radio.
I don't think this is a dumb question, since the manual seems to be pretty darn specific in most other aspects, but it sounds like there are three parts being adjusted here: AM radio, the dial of the generator, and the "RF oscillator", but the only thing I see the manual referring to as an RF oscillator is the 12AT7 tube which obviously doesn't have any adjustments on it.

After the manual goes on to explain what a zero beat is and then on a tangent about assembling the alignment tool, it continues with further steps:
Quote:* Referring to Pictorial 7 (Page 18) and using the trimmer alignment tool, preset trimmer capacitor C6 until the top of the adjustment screw is 1/2" above the chassis.
* Tune the AM radio to a station of known frequency between 800 and 1000 kc. The frequency of this station should preferably be one whose frequency falls directly on one of the calibration points on the dial, such as 800 kc, 850 kc, 900 kc, or 1000 kc.
* Turn the dial pointer on the Generator to the place on the dial that indicates the exact frequency of the station the radio is tuned to.
* Adjust trimmer capacitor C6 for a zero beat in the radio. Use the FINE ATTEN and COARSE ATTEN controls to set the output level of the Generator just high enough to give a clear zero beat in the radio.
This completes the calibration of band A through E. Turn off the AM radio.

Now, the real question I guess ultimately is: are they just describing the same procedure twice, once as a concept, and second as discrete steps?  As in, is the act of tuning the RF oscillator that is first described what is actually being done by adjusting the C6 trimmer cap in the list of steps?

The steps describe using a specific station of 800, 850, 900 or 1000 kc while the first round of description simply states a station with a known frequency, so the high-level, conceptual description seems to be far less specific than the individual steps.

A further question is, what if there are literally no stations receivable in the 800 to 1000 KHz range?  I went through the entire range today and that part is dead as a doornail, locally.  Can I still try for a zero beat if there's nothing but static?  Would using a station outside of that range simply not work, or might it just be less accurate?

Thanks for your help on this.  It may be perfectly clear to someone else, but as a very literal person, when the manual describes a process two different ways, it just seems to introduce ambiguity to me that need not be there.  I will certainly tell the editor of the manual my feelings next time we're in the same room.

Best wishes,
Roy]]>
I've done two alignments (by ear, hopefully have a working VTVM on the way) on the RCA 6K3 so far with this and 1370 AM, our most local of stations, is pretty reliably coming in when the dial is at 1400, so I'm thinking the signal generator may be off.

Preface with the fact that the dial pointer is aligned as indicated in the manual.
The calibration procedure begins with some basic steps, getting the signal generator on band B, modulation on EXT MOD, and the other front settings, positioning of the output cable.  The final initial step is turning on the signal generator and the radio and let them warm up for 15 minutes.

For this process, I'm either going to be using my truck's radio, or another solid-state radio, but probably the truck's since it has digital tuning and I can make sure we're on the exact frequency.

The manual then goes on to state:
Quote:The following procedure will be used to calibrate the Generator.
First, a signal of known frequency is tuned in on the AM radio. Then the dial pointer of the Generator is set to the exact frequency of the station the radio is tuned to. The RF oscillator is then tuned to the same frequency as the radio station by adjusting it until a zero beat is heard in the radio.
I don't think this is a dumb question, since the manual seems to be pretty darn specific in most other aspects, but it sounds like there are three parts being adjusted here: AM radio, the dial of the generator, and the "RF oscillator", but the only thing I see the manual referring to as an RF oscillator is the 12AT7 tube which obviously doesn't have any adjustments on it.

After the manual goes on to explain what a zero beat is and then on a tangent about assembling the alignment tool, it continues with further steps:
Quote:* Referring to Pictorial 7 (Page 18) and using the trimmer alignment tool, preset trimmer capacitor C6 until the top of the adjustment screw is 1/2" above the chassis.
* Tune the AM radio to a station of known frequency between 800 and 1000 kc. The frequency of this station should preferably be one whose frequency falls directly on one of the calibration points on the dial, such as 800 kc, 850 kc, 900 kc, or 1000 kc.
* Turn the dial pointer on the Generator to the place on the dial that indicates the exact frequency of the station the radio is tuned to.
* Adjust trimmer capacitor C6 for a zero beat in the radio. Use the FINE ATTEN and COARSE ATTEN controls to set the output level of the Generator just high enough to give a clear zero beat in the radio.
This completes the calibration of band A through E. Turn off the AM radio.

Now, the real question I guess ultimately is: are they just describing the same procedure twice, once as a concept, and second as discrete steps?  As in, is the act of tuning the RF oscillator that is first described what is actually being done by adjusting the C6 trimmer cap in the list of steps?

The steps describe using a specific station of 800, 850, 900 or 1000 kc while the first round of description simply states a station with a known frequency, so the high-level, conceptual description seems to be far less specific than the individual steps.

A further question is, what if there are literally no stations receivable in the 800 to 1000 KHz range?  I went through the entire range today and that part is dead as a doornail, locally.  Can I still try for a zero beat if there's nothing but static?  Would using a station outside of that range simply not work, or might it just be less accurate?

Thanks for your help on this.  It may be perfectly clear to someone else, but as a very literal person, when the manual describes a process two different ways, it just seems to introduce ambiguity to me that need not be there.  I will certainly tell the editor of the manual my feelings next time we're in the same room.

Best wishes,
Roy]]> <![CDATA[TAG-101 Audio Generator]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26575 Sun, 21 Jun 2026 09:53:45 -0500 Vlad95]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26575
.jpg tag-101.jpg Size: 30.35 KB  Downloads: 182


My existing IG-18

.gif ig18_pic.gif Size: 121.4 KB  Downloads: 188


is hopelessly outdated, but most importantly, it's on its last legs, producing neither a decent sine wave nor stability. And I don't like the controls. Basically, it's time to retire.
I've been eyeing the TAG-101 for a while, and when I found it for next to nothing, $45 without shipping, I decided it was time.
I found it on Alibaba. They even delivered it 10 days earlier than promised, right to my door. It was beautifully packaged.
I tested it a bit, and everything is in perfect condition.

My question: does anyone have a schematic for the TAG-101, or a link to one? Please share.]]>
.jpg tag-101.jpg Size: 30.35 KB  Downloads: 182


My existing IG-18

.gif ig18_pic.gif Size: 121.4 KB  Downloads: 188


is hopelessly outdated, but most importantly, it's on its last legs, producing neither a decent sine wave nor stability. And I don't like the controls. Basically, it's time to retire.
I've been eyeing the TAG-101 for a while, and when I found it for next to nothing, $45 without shipping, I decided it was time.
I found it on Alibaba. They even delivered it 10 days earlier than promised, right to my door. It was beautifully packaged.
I tested it a bit, and everything is in perfect condition.

My question: does anyone have a schematic for the TAG-101, or a link to one? Please share.]]> <![CDATA[Scope Probes]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26566 Mon, 15 Jun 2026 09:42:08 -0500 dconant]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26566
Thanks,
Dan]]>
Thanks,
Dan]]> <![CDATA[New tool added to my workbench Hakko FM-204]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26431 Fri, 17 Apr 2026 22:48:19 -0500 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26431
I just picked up my latest addition to the workbench—a used Hakko model FM-204 desoldering station with the Hakko model FM-2024 gun. One cool thing about this setup is that I can also order a Hakko soldering iron to go with it. This unit was built in 2017 and is in good shape, working perfectly.

I will order some Filters and some tips for it too I did download the manual too.
Does anyone here have one or use this unit at work ?
Sincerely Richard 
P.S. I got it for $400. plus shipping
.jpg hakko station.jpg Size: 127.82 KB  Downloads: 180
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I just picked up my latest addition to the workbench—a used Hakko model FM-204 desoldering station with the Hakko model FM-2024 gun. One cool thing about this setup is that I can also order a Hakko soldering iron to go with it. This unit was built in 2017 and is in good shape, working perfectly.

I will order some Filters and some tips for it too I did download the manual too.
Does anyone here have one or use this unit at work ?
Sincerely Richard 
P.S. I got it for $400. plus shipping
.jpg hakko station.jpg Size: 127.82 KB  Downloads: 180
]]> <![CDATA[LCR suggestions]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26310 Wed, 25 Feb 2026 15:29:28 -0600 bridkarl]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26310 Would a $50 BM4070 do the job or is it really important to pop $150 plus for DER Ee DE-5000?]]> Would a $50 BM4070 do the job or is it really important to pop $150 plus for DER Ee DE-5000?]]> <![CDATA[A circuit breaker finder]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26283 Sun, 15 Feb 2026 17:01:23 -0600 morzh]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26283 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP?ref...title&th=1


I saw that at Lowe's.
And then I remembered all those sessions where i would flip a breaker and go see if the lights are off, or had to have my wife on the phone...the price is more or less the same as on Amazon.
Made by Klein tools.

there are other similar devices, buy Klein is reputable.

so I bought it. Will come tomorrow.
Shoulda' bought it years ago. If it was available.

I mean, it also tests GFI but this is not that important.]]> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP?ref...title&th=1


I saw that at Lowe's.
And then I remembered all those sessions where i would flip a breaker and go see if the lights are off, or had to have my wife on the phone...the price is more or less the same as on Amazon.
Made by Klein tools.

there are other similar devices, buy Klein is reputable.

so I bought it. Will come tomorrow.
Shoulda' bought it years ago. If it was available.

I mean, it also tests GFI but this is not that important.]]> <![CDATA[Realistic Tube Tester 113 Not the same as Precise 111]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26210 Fri, 16 Jan 2026 17:46:11 -0600 eJunky]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26210
I have been trying to restore a Tube Tester by Realistic Model 113; this is identical to Precise 111M but different from Precise 111 Model.  I have issues with the Short Test Switch where even with no 'test' tube installed the neon short light comes "on" in position 1 through 4.

I wanted to see if anyone has access to schematics for either Precise 111M or Realistic 113 model Tube Tester.  I have everything for Precise 111 but unfortunately the Short Switch is different in 111.  Model 111 uses one less wafer layer than both Realistic 113 & Precise 111M models.

If anyone has model 111M or 113 can you please share images of the Short Test Switch (tall 6 layer SW); so I can compare with my 113.  If you are willing to share images please take close up pictures from different sides so that all sections are visible.  I know I am asking for too much but at this point I am desperate for any information.

In the mean time I will attempt to find what is causing this short even when no 'test' tube installed; I will try to follow the neon wires (not an easy thing without schematic or images, at least for me).

I sincerely hope one of you experts can help this lost sole Icon_sad

Regards,
eJunky]]>
I have been trying to restore a Tube Tester by Realistic Model 113; this is identical to Precise 111M but different from Precise 111 Model.  I have issues with the Short Test Switch where even with no 'test' tube installed the neon short light comes "on" in position 1 through 4.

I wanted to see if anyone has access to schematics for either Precise 111M or Realistic 113 model Tube Tester.  I have everything for Precise 111 but unfortunately the Short Switch is different in 111.  Model 111 uses one less wafer layer than both Realistic 113 & Precise 111M models.

If anyone has model 111M or 113 can you please share images of the Short Test Switch (tall 6 layer SW); so I can compare with my 113.  If you are willing to share images please take close up pictures from different sides so that all sections are visible.  I know I am asking for too much but at this point I am desperate for any information.

In the mean time I will attempt to find what is causing this short even when no 'test' tube installed; I will try to follow the neon wires (not an easy thing without schematic or images, at least for me).

I sincerely hope one of you experts can help this lost sole Icon_sad

Regards,
eJunky]]> <![CDATA[260 Simpson 7]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26200 Mon, 12 Jan 2026 18:27:23 -0600 Trog1058]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26200
.jpg 20260112_191111.jpg Size: 3.56 MB  Downloads: 150
]]>
.jpg 20260112_191111.jpg Size: 3.56 MB  Downloads: 150
]]> <![CDATA[Kyoritsu a.c. clamp meter model 830]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26097 Sun, 16 Nov 2025 02:17:11 -0600 Antipodal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26097 <![CDATA[Philco Type-024 Signal Generator]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26095 Thu, 13 Nov 2025 07:53:29 -0600 swarten]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26095