Hello friends,
Can anyone tell me where I can find suitable brass eyelets to fasten tube sockets and tube shield bases to a chassis? And the tool(s) to use to fasten everything down?
Here's the backstory: I'm working on a 38-690. Some doofus forcibly removed some of the tube shield bases from the tuner in order to allow metal and GT tubes to be used. I wish to replace the tube shield bases.
Yes, I could simply use pop rivets, which is what I have done in the past. But one wire must pass through one of the eyelets, so a pop rivet cannot be used in that particular spot.
Any/all help appreciated. Also, any advice on how to do this would also be appreciated. In 44 years of working on vintage radios, I've never worked with brass eyelets so this is all new to me.
Thanks.
Hi Ron
Can you use pop rivets and drive the "nail" part out then with use a blunt set punch to flat the rivet. That should. Leave a hole for the wire. By the way I have 4 of those bases if you need them. Joe
While I have found suitable rivets, I have never found a suitable eyelet nor the tool that would be needed. I checked Keystone, they only have very small ones.
Something like the 'rivet nuts" might work (I already have a "nut zirc tool) but I have found the hobby store eyelets to be too weak to hold chassis parts. They need to be thicker/stronger.
Ron
I did the same with my 20 restoration in 2011 - I described it. I used copper rivets, took out the mandrel and used an obtuse-angle cone end tool (in my case - a large screw extracting bit) to flare the rivet.
None of those PC board eyelets were intended for mounting parts though the ones on page 2 of the rolled eyelets come close. It is not clear if the tool will roll the unrolled end (to be rolled at both ends). A description of the tool would help a lot but there does not seem to be one.
Ron;
Maybe try a place that sells leather working supplies and tools, they have all sorts of hardware that may be worth a look, such as Tandy leather.
Regards
Arran
Ron,
Just a thought .... I've not done this. Could you use a boat style rivet (solid), then drill out the centre? I think these rivets are available in mild steel and shouldn't be too hard to work with. As an alternative you could use the aluminum ones, and for any bases that require grounding you could run a short ground wire?
as I said ... just a thought.
cheers
EDIT :: so I went for a google hunt and found this place which may or may not be a place to order from, but at the least is a good source of info :
https://www.rivetsonline.com/index.php
:
Thanks everyone. I think I will find out what size eyelets I need and order some, and do some experimentation. If all else fails I will pop rivet the one shield base and drill a separate hole for the grid lead. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
(04-09-2018, 09:49 AM)w4rtc Wrote: [ -> ]By the way I have 4 of those bases if you need them. Joe
Thanks Joe, but I already have plenty of bases. Mostly 1937 style as any type of tube (metal, GT and G) can be used with these. The 1938 bases limit you to the G type. When the shield is in place one cannot tell which base is being used.
(04-09-2018, 12:20 PM)morzh Wrote: [ -> ]I did the same with my 20 restoration in 2011 - I described it. I used copper rivets, took out the mandrel and used an obtuse-angle cone end tool (in my case - a large screw extracting bit) to flare the rivet.
Can you post a link to the thread you are referring to, please? I searched for it but after looking through two dozen or more results, I gave up.
Thanks, Mike, very much appreciated.