Where to find eyelets and tool(s)?
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
04-09-2018, 10:31 AM
Hello friends,
Can anyone tell me where I can find suitable brass eyelets to fasten tube sockets and tube shield bases to a chassis? And the tool(s) to use to fasten everything down?
Here's the backstory: I'm working on a 38-690. Some doofus forcibly removed some of the tube shield bases from the tuner in order to allow metal and GT tubes to be used. I wish to replace the tube shield bases.
Yes, I could simply use pop rivets, which is what I have done in the past. But one wire must pass through one of the eyelets, so a pop rivet cannot be used in that particular spot.
Any/all help appreciated. Also, any advice on how to do this would also be appreciated. In 44 years of working on vintage radios, I've never worked with brass eyelets so this is all new to me.
Thanks.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 594
Threads: 41
Joined: Aug 2010
City: Shepherdsville, KY
Hi Ron
Can you use pop rivets and drive the "nail" part out then with use a blunt set punch to flat the rivet. That should. Leave a hole for the wire. By the way I have 4 of those bases if you need them. Joe
Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
While I have found suitable rivets, I have never found a suitable eyelet nor the tool that would be needed. I checked Keystone, they only have very small ones.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 599
Threads: 24
Joined: Jan 2014
City: Edmonton AB CA
Hi Ron:
You can get the eyelets from the link below or I get them at a local craft store, they use them for making jewelry.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/
You can get the tool from AES
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/st...nd-turrets
Gregb
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
Something like the 'rivet nuts" might work (I already have a "nut zirc tool) but I have found the hobby store eyelets to be too weak to hold chassis parts. They need to be thicker/stronger.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 15,823
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Ron
I did the same with my 20 restoration in 2011 - I described it. I used copper rivets, took out the mandrel and used an obtuse-angle cone end tool (in my case - a large screw extracting bit) to flare the rivet.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 384
Threads: 22
Joined: Mar 2015
City: Waxahachie, TX
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
None of those PC board eyelets were intended for mounting parts though the ones on page 2 of the rolled eyelets come close. It is not clear if the tool will roll the unrolled end (to be rolled at both ends). A description of the tool would help a lot but there does not seem to be one.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 4,707
Threads: 51
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
Ron;
Maybe try a place that sells leather working supplies and tools, they have all sorts of hardware that may be worth a look, such as Tandy leather.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 358
Threads: 4
Joined: Aug 2015
City: Monteith, Ontario CA
Ron,
Just a thought .... I've not done this. Could you use a boat style rivet (solid), then drill out the centre? I think these rivets are available in mild steel and shouldn't be too hard to work with. As an alternative you could use the aluminum ones, and for any bases that require grounding you could run a short ground wire?
as I said ... just a thought.
cheers
EDIT :: so I went for a google hunt and found this place which may or may not be a place to order from, but at the least is a good source of info : https://www.rivetsonline.com/index.php
:
(This post was last modified: 04-10-2018, 08:10 AM by John Bartley.)
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Thanks everyone. I think I will find out what size eyelets I need and order some, and do some experimentation. If all else fails I will pop rivet the one shield base and drill a separate hole for the grid lead. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
(04-09-2018, 10:49 AM)w4rtc Wrote: By the way I have 4 of those bases if you need them. Joe
Thanks Joe, but I already have plenty of bases. Mostly 1937 style as any type of tube (metal, GT and G) can be used with these. The 1938 bases limit you to the G type. When the shield is in place one cannot tell which base is being used.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
(04-09-2018, 01:20 PM)morzh Wrote: I did the same with my 20 restoration in 2011 - I described it. I used copper rivets, took out the mandrel and used an obtuse-angle cone end tool (in my case - a large screw extracting bit) to flare the rivet.
Can you post a link to the thread you are referring to, please? I searched for it but after looking through two dozen or more results, I gave up.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 15,823
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Thanks, Mike, very much appreciated.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 20
Threads: 2
Joined: Apr 2018
City: Great Falls, MT
Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
Philco 38-7 Speaker
|
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM |
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
|
#87 on the schematic.
This radio had a 8" Zenith speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM |
Philco 60 Squealing
|
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM |
Philco 38-7 Speaker
|
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM |
Philco 38-7 Speaker
|
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM |
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
|
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type.
This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM |
Philco 60 Squealing
|
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM |
Philco 6K7
|
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND.
I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM |
Philco 16B Parts
|
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM |
Philco 16B Parts
|
Hi Dan,
Mike is correct, there's a lot of painted stuff on the chassis but it looks pretty good. The sm is all there,sp...Radioroslyn — 03:50 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently 3801 online users. [Complete List] » 2 Member(s) | 3799 Guest(s)
|
|
|
|