Has anyone ever gone the route of requesting a custom transformer design from Hammond? The transformer on my 46-480 looks to be in horrible condition. It’s heavily rusted, which has me worried about eddy currents in the laminated core. The holes for rivets are also all broken off, except for one. I’ve used their online request form to reach out with details of what I am needing.

Per the available Philco parts catalogs the Philco 32-8243 transformer is a 117V, 60Hz primary to 640V @ 85mA secondary. It’s got a 6.4V @ 3.45A rectifier output and a 6.4V @ 0.3A center tapped filament output. This is obviously very uncommon, and I can’t find a readily available replacement.

If anyone has gone this route, I’m curious about the turnaround time and pricing. I’m also entertaining a rewind, but I understand that this isn’t really any cheaper.

I’m currently working on my Philco 40-180 radio. I’m having an issue. No sound. Low hum from speaker. I keep smoking (60) resistor. My voltage across the (61) capacitor is 200VDC and the voltage across (58) capacitor is around 40VDC. Not sure what’s going on. I appreciate all the help this is my first radio and I only have a basic knowledge of electronics. Thank you

With my recent power amp work going on, I felt I needed a good solid preamp. Again, trying to keep costs down and function up. I've been using a couple of these lately as they do about everything I need to do. The subject at hand was my "test" amp and I'd been using it for several years. But is is sounding lackluster and drab. I did find part of it was my lousy cheap portable CD player, but even with a good rack CD player, it still sounded dull. So, it is time to see if I can liven it up back to where it should be! I ordered a handful of caps from AES and finally got it on the bench. 

It wasn't easy, but it wasn't bad either. The PC boards made it a lot easier to unsolder and replace the old caps. In my pictures, you will note I've replaced one transistor with a heat sink on it. That is Q4, the output transistor. They were originally a larger round thing with a heat sink, but they get weak and make static. I spent hours trying to track down the source of that static, resoldered, replaced resistors, scoped and finally tracked it down those transistors. After a little research, I found parts at: https://www.updatemydynaco.com/ This fixed the problem. Parts are very affordable and shipping is very prompt. He also has the complete recap kits too, but I ordered mine with other parts from AES. I did NOT replace the main filter can cap. I didn't see any issues with it at this point, and it's very easy to get to when that time comes. Ill let the pictures speak for themselves.


A few notes: I pulled the rear of the chassis, PC board brackets, power trans & filter can. I tried to pull the selector switch, but the knob screw was rather find if it's place, so I just pulled the rearmost wafer switch. Be careful if you follow suit. They're delicate, and there's a small fibre washer that's easy to miss. The rear PC board was fairly easy to flip up and get to the connections, the front one - not so easy, and is why I pulled all the previous. This allows you just enough room to flip things into a figure 8 and get to your solder joints, Take pictures and mark your - on your caps. I only replaced the electolytics, There's plenty of sources for schematics and service info on the 'net. I also replaced the output caps on the front panel (for headphones). The rest, I left alone. Just keep track of your washers, nuts and screws. There's no labeling on the PC boards either, so one piece at a time. Also, keep the soldering heat minimal because it is easy to lift the traces.

Tied my PC boards in a figure 8
   
All those old caps. They should have lasted more than 50 years!
   
Thought this was interesting.
   
And this.
   
Just trying to get the "bugs" worked out!
   

Hello Everyone

How have you been doing for so long ?

Please, does anyone know this radio ?

It looks like the models " baby grand " from Philco , but with a larger dial , and only 4 tubes  

Best regards to All        

Hi all,

I have an old Philco radio that i remember fondly from my younger days. It sat out on the porch of my dad's aunt's cottage on Moonlight Bay. I remember listening to stations all over the country on it and the great mellow sound it had. We got the cabinet refinished a number of years ago, but the problem is a burned up tube and socket. How can I fix this? What would cause a tube to burn up like this? Also, would like to get the Phico decal for the caabinet and a couple of button labels.

Thanks,
Perry

I saw this 38-690 close on ebay at a great $.  If you hadn't seen it bodes well for values imo.
Not sure if this is the place to post .  Auction had ended.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256738090012?_s...R9y11qn7ZA

Good morning, folks:

    I have a question about dynamic speakers. I’ve got two sets that feature one—a 46-480 and a 48-482. Anyway, I noticed on both schematics that there are two coils for the audio path. There’s a V.C. and a B.C. I’m pretty certain that I’ve heard that V.C. stands for Voice Coil, but what about B.C.?

   

Side note, but I haven’t begun restoring the 48-482. That’s why I don’t include it on my signature.

Wanting to install an input jack in my 38-690. Has anyone did this on a 690?

I was gifted a National NC-57 receiver which I’m
slowly rehabbing - winter and illness are slowing me down. The electrical part is strait forward. 
The dial mechanism works but is so dirty and cruddy that it will need to be disassembled and cleaned. 

I’ve found replacement dials and dial glass are available. My issue is that the dials are held on with rivets. Drilling out the old rivets not an issue. I see 
Is there a riveting tool one could use for a round dial with the rivets in the center ?I’ve not used a manual rivet gun before so I’m not sure if that would work. From what I’ve seen it appears it might work. Before I blow $30 at ace on a pop rivet gun can someone confirm this will work.

 As an additional issue the dials have no parts numbers. I’m assuming the replacement dials from Radio Daze will work, but I’m not sure.

I cant figure out why all my scales are off by 3-4 times. 10vac measures 30vac on the meter. Recapped and dividing resistors ok. Probes are factory.