Hello everyone!
I've been working on a Philco 38 farm radio with the code 121 version chassis. As you all may know this set uses a rather rare tube, the type 15 pentode as an autodyne converter. I am not deeply versed in autodyne converter circuits. I'm still a few shades green at this kind of stuff.
To preface my work on this radio, I have recapped it and changed all of the resistors because they were out of tolerance. I did not touch any of the micas. I checked all voltages on the tubes and they are within spec. All tubes are good. I checked all coils and audio xfrmrs for continuity. They all passed. The tuning capacitor is a little
dirty but no plates are rubbing. I used the two radio method and verified the local oscillator is running. The driver and push-pull audio is working. I checked the band switch and it's good. When I touch the detector grid cap and I get a buzz. So the detector is working. When I touch the grid cap of the IF amp and I get a response, like the buzz plus static. When I touch the converter's grid cap I get static. I also touched the tuning cap stator terminal on the antenna side. That gives me static. When I take my finger off of the grid cap or the tuning cap stator, I get nothing. The antenna terminal gives no response when I touch it. It has a 4 foot length of wire with a little kit AM transmitter pumping out signal and the radio acts like it's not even there. Even though I checked the antenna coil could there still be an issue with it? Could it be the volume control? It uses the volume control to throttle the incoming signal. It's directly connected to the antenna coil. What am I missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
All recapped and checked. Had to order a new knob. Seems to work ok.
The bulb seems to be an issue. It’s bright for a moment and then gets truly dim. Seems to be drawing too much B+. I haven’t replaced any tubes so that may be the issue.
I also couldn’t figure out if the original power cord went under OR through the antenna. I put it under using a polarized cord with the hot side to the switch. I’m debating if it needs a fuse, but since I use it through a fused isolation transformer I think not.
In 1935 thru 1947 MGM made a bunch of short subject (abt 20 min) under the title of Crime Does Not Pay. It also was a radio show and tv show in the '50s. In 1939 "Money To Lend" There's a 39-116 in the office of the head loan shark/gangster. It's dispatching the local new and being controlled by it's mystery remote. There are some other sets too.
I couldn't find any free links to the video but but if you have movie service you should be able to find it. I bought the set of DVDs a number of yrs ago.
Good morning, folks! I’ve got a question. We have such a wonderful resource as philcoradio.com for service manuals, general information about the radios sold in each production year, and so forth. It’s a great resource for the curious mind as well as the aspiring technician. Are there similar websites to research into the other front runners of the day such as Zenith, Silvertone, Truetone, RCA, etc.?
I wonder if anyone has any information or experience with this model. My internet searches are coming up with nothing. I ran into this down the street from where I live set on a porch to be thrown out. I was going to take it but the homeowner said it had been out in he rain for a long time. It's at least 3 feet long.
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on flag that shows up through a hole in the middle of the dial scale when the radio is turned on does not work. There is a wire spring loaded linkage that goes down beside the volume control that should activate(raise) the flag by turning the on/off/volume control to the on position. I believe that there must be a missing part of some type that makes contact with the volume control shaft. I have not been able to find any information or picture as to how this feature works. If anyone could give me some information or photo as to how this works or if there is a work around to make this operate it would be greatly appreciated. I am assuming that if there is a missing part that it would probably be next to impossible to find a replacement. So maybe a work around may be possible?
Thanks,
Marion
Hello
I am new here and I could use some advice. I am working on my 1955 Stude/Philco car radio and have determined that the power transformer has an open winding in its secondary. The Philco part # is 32-8313-3. I can't find any specs for the transformer. Does anyone know what they are are where I could find a good one?
Thanks
Phil
I've recently finished the internal restoration of a locally purchased Philco 48-482. The cabinet is in ok shape except there is no rear panel.
All is working well and the radio is a good performer. The question is when to stop on the project? I kind of like the "well used" look of the cabinet and am reluctant to refinish. But I would like to have a somewhat realistic rear panel for safety purposes, and to add completeness. Can anyone supply a rear panel photo of a 48-482?
Then there's the question of where I use this radio? The most likely location is for garage entertainment while tinkering on other projects. Should I add a Bluetooth module so make the unit more versatile, or is this sacrilege? It's a moral dilemma!
Thanks in advance for any help with rear panel pictures.
Hi Everyone,
New member but have been reading this for awhile for tips!
Vaccum tubes were before my time so bear with me on my ignorance!
I'm just an old DeVry Phoenix grad from the beginning of the digital age. We had to fix everything back then.
I worked for Fairchild Systems and then 42 years Tech Service for same company. Systems and industrial controls.
I just completed a 46-350 and it got me interested again in doing a Tombstone I was given many years ago.
It was barn/shop find and had a few things living in it.
I don't know how to ID the model number since the label part with model # is torn off.
It is a 11 tube Philco.....By looking at the components I'm guessing mid or earlier 1930's?
I enclosed pictures of the cabinet, dial and labeled the tubes I could get to without disturbing the brittle wires.
It's not to bad underneath, has been worked on - (1960"s)? a couple caps/components replaced.
I can't read some values because they black taped Caps together and paper on Cap's is peeling off with tape. So I will need to locate a schematic.
I have never put power to it. It will need some work before that happens.
As you can see that 1 of the #8 tubes top wire is broken off and It's missing one of the knobs
Dial has 4 scales. Darn thing weighs about 40 lbs.
If anyone can point me in the right direct I will really appreciate it!
Thanks
Ken
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