Hello, first post here, bear with me.
I've been electronically refurbishing a 46-1201 that I received from a relative. I got it to power on, selected phono, and the turntable spun, but it wouldn't stop whether the door was open or closed. Looking inside, it appears the trip release spring, the part that actuates the mercury switch, had snapped off a long time ago, and I can't seem to find a replacement, nor am I equipped to make one. could any of you Philco gurus help me out? The model of turntable mechanism is the M-7. 

Here's a Photo.

   

Thanks!

-ConcernedFeller

So sometime  back I posted some photos of a badly damaged in transport T62, not the tank.

I did manage to get a donor cabinet and with the help of a pal in my club we have done a full recap and check, and voila! Looks better in the final frame.

Sounds pretty good is fairly sensitive. I have only cleaned the case so not too bad, I will likely give it a feed and wax tmrw. Needed a new power cord cord and pilot bulb, and capacitors, it is a transformer driven chassis.

Here is the mess and then the completed set. Only took six years to get around to it!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/92577012@N...634927865/

Paul

Is there some trick to getting the indicator lamp evenly spaced between the frequency bands? Seems like no matter what I try the light is too far to the left. Seems to me it should be evenly spaced between the two.

   

I have 3 G speaker, all with open Field coils.

Today I pull one of the shelf and decided to try to remove the FC (spoiler: so far I have not succeeded).

Now, this speaker is very clean and has excellent cone (yeah, yeah, with the solid spider).
I bought it fr om a lady on eBay, and when I found out the FC (she said the speaker worked) was open, I told her and she was willing  to refund everything, but I told her that I would pay part of it as the transformer was good. I used it for something else.
The speaker has been on a shelf for more or less 8 to 10 years.

I remembered what a screwdriver can do to the spider when it slips. I was looking to buy a screwdriver with a spring-loaded guard shrowd, but have not found any. So today I did  this: I took the 7/16 socket from my Kraftsman kit, and used the heaviest screwdriver that could go through it.
   

I helped the socket to stay around the split washer; it did not require any effort: just so it did not slide. This kept the flat screwdriver from sliding sideways. Surprisingly, the screw did not resist too strongly, and I removed it without any damage to the cone or the spider.

Then came the turn of the big nut in the back, that holds the pole.
Luckily I bought 1" socket a year ago. I tried it with the standard Kraftsman driver, and it would not budge, plus my hand was hurting.
Then I remembered I bought a piece of steel pipe as a lever, when 3 years ago I was trying to rebuild my pool pump, and the bolts did not move. With this as a lever, they moved very soon. They were really calcified (I think I put the photos here then; it was, I think, May of 2022).
This is what the pipe is and how it is paired with anything (wrench or socket driver).
   
   

I used a thick large square-crossection screwdriver (same one I used on that capacitors can) to counter the effort. This is good steel and thick enough to not bend.
The screwdriver is inserted in the screw slot in the speaker base, and then pushed clock-wise when the nut is driven counter-clock-wise.
   
It was a good idea but it did not wor either. The nut wouldn't budge.

Then I decided to secure the speaker in my large vise.
   

I would have to be gentle with squeezing as the base looks to be something like cast iron, and could be brittle.
I had to adjust the vise 3 or 4 times as the speaker would get loosened up.
Eventually, I realized this was not working either, and decided it was time for PB Blaster.
Which is what I applied, and the liquid happily got absorbed, both in between teh screw and the nut, and between the nut and the base.
I am soaking it for now and will attempt the nut removal again later.

Hello all.  New member here. I bought a Predicta TV for my teenage son (who is into all things vintage, see attached pic). He loves it but the images are very dark. Is there anyone within a few hours of Mobile AL that can do some refurbishment to improve picture quality?

Thanks in advance. 

Jeff Smith 
Mobile AL

   

Drowning in a overloud buzz/Humm. Have already changed filter caps,bakelite blocks( caps),out of speck resistors,checked many grounds. Changed & tested tubes,usual voltage checks, removing 6j7's an still have buzz/humm.Running short on ideas!
Thank everyone for any direction resolving
Bruce

I posted this on FB but knowing that not all of us use social media, it seemed sensible to ask my question here. 

I recently acquired this 630CSX chairside that has an unusual (at least for me) power cord with three wires; two for AC and one for the antenna. There's a place on the plug where a long wire could be attached, presumably to improve SW reception. Has anyone encountered this before? The cord is a complete loss and will need to be replaced. I'm tempted to reuse the funky plug but am unsure how to do it. It may not be obvious from the picture but the plug is flat, so it wouldn't be easy to connect a conventional line cord to it (what's there now almost looks like old 300 ohm feed line). I'm also curious to know if having the antenna line so close to the AC would introduce 60 Hz hum. Maybe the best thing to do is to switch to an era appropriate power cord and plug with a separate line for the antenna, although it would be fun to try reproducing the original. Thoughts?

Hi folks, I'm in the process of restoring a Philco 40-120C and I'm finding the wiring to be a bit puzzling. According to the schematic, the filament resistor should be connected to Pin 1 (the heater of the rectifier tube 35Y4). However, it is attached to Pin 5 (a "no connection" pin in the tube) without a jumper from Pin 5 to anywhere else. Meanwhile, Pin 1 is attached to Pin 6 of the 7C6 tube (the tube's triode cathode). It all appears to be the original wiring. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Everthing goes at once, maybe it's the cold weather, I have had 2 dial strings break and no my little RCA is having dial light issues. I did the easy thing and swapped the bulb when the existing one did not light. So the replacement is slow to light, then flickers, and out. I don't think its the socket, most of my #51 bulbs are from pulls, so could be bulb. 

Thinking of cleaning and a little gun oil on base of another bulb, I have a few 35Z5s, I could change out the rectifier and see if that helps, Clean the rectifier tube socket? The set is recapped and been playing awful well. Small problem, any thoughts?

Paul

Well, here's a head scratcher. I had been using my 1077 while working on the Emerson and the last time I tried to use it, no video. I have sound, the RF out is working but the "test" light is on, which wasn't before. Upon lifting the cover I noted the CRT wasn't lit. All the tubes are lit. I double checked my settings, flipped switches, nothing. Sooo - dropped it down on the bench and began making some checks. I don't have the best schematic and the one I do have isn't the most descriptive thing. It lacks in the description of which switch is which, circuit description, etc, so it takes some detective work. If anyone has a good schemo I would be quite apprecative.

So, here's where I am. No HV, low (no) boost, B+ present and close to what it needs to be. No - on the H out grid, no signal, so the oscillator isn't running. It uses a 8CG7 dual triode. Tested good. Subbed the 33GY7 - no change. Yes, it is power transformer B+, series strung heaters. I have an older thread where this was recapped in 2000, but found my thread locked. Actually, found a lot of my threads locked. So, I noted the plate voltages on the osc tube were very low, which would make sense if it wasn't running and the tube was turned on all the way. It's suppose to have a - voltage on the grids too - nothing there. Ok, well, those plates are also run off the boost, and it is non existent. I saw a .1 cap off the boost source that looked like it had been desoldered previously, so I checked it - perfect, no leakage, so I ruled it out. I CAN hear the h-osc starting briefly when I flip the power switch on, but it just blips, then goes dead. I verified this with my scope.

This wasn't a good week for my test equipment, audio signal tracer quit (lead broke inside the probe - what a pain!), then my B&K, and I needed by sweep generator - and IT wouldn't work! Man, those e caps SHOULD last longer then 60 years - right? I mean seriously!  Ok, well, it needed fixed anyway. No sense having it if it doesn't work when I need it. It's like a tractor that won't start when my truck is stuck, and have to fix the battery charger so I can charge the battery on the tractor so I can start it and pull my truck out

Alright, with that working now, I shoved a H drive signal into the output tube in the B&K and found everything was working from that point on. Have my screen lit with both V & H sweep and HV. Boost is also working. Still low plate voltage on the osc. should be 225v, sets about 25. Comes up briefly when the switch is flipped, but drops off, so again, osc isn't running. Now, here's where the confusion is coming in. The schematic shows 4 ICs right before the osc tube. Soooo - is what I thought is the osc tube actually just a driver? Then, are those 4 ICs actually the oscillator? FYI, on this one, the vert osc is a couple transistors that go to the triode driver then on to the output. That one's obvious. But, lack of information on the Horiz. No voltages listed on the schematic on the ICs, no description, no nothing. Do they just "kick start" the oscillator, then it is dying out, or are those ICs actually the oscillator and the 2 sections of the CG7 just drivers for the output? In looking at the schematic, it could be either. I'll post what I have a little later.  Never had a moments trouble from this up until now. I have a smoked up one that I might be able to compare voltages, and yeah, maybe should go ahead and replace the larger value caps.