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This radio has an inoperative On-Off switch. I jumpered a bypass on the switch to allow the radio to power on. Voltages are about 10% above spec on the plates and within spec on the screen grids. Filament voltages are spot on. All tubes have been tested OK. Filaments and dial light are lit. My line voltage is 115 volts AC but when I measure the voltage on P/N 49 (the Bakelite block that encloses 2 x 0.015 safety capacitors [I just replaced these within the block after removing the contents], I am getting a 55.6 volt reading on the side leg that connects to the On-Off switch. Also, there is no sound at all (even static or hum) coming out of the speaker. Incidentally, another 71-B that I rebuilt has the same voltage on the Bakelite leg as the line voltage. ![]()
Found a 38-116 code 125 at a building Salvage store for $85 bucks. Cabinet looks to have been restored, including saving all but 1 of the original decals. Chassis looks to be in good condition, no rust, just a lot of dust. Grille cloth looks new as well. Checked the tubes, one 6L6 was cracked, half the 5Z4 has no emissions. A couple others have extremely low emission. Ordered 8 tubes to replace them ![]()
The Wife picked up this Philco at a rummage sale today for $15 dollars..... ![]() ![]()
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Restoring this unit, and finally found the Code 123 documentation. Question: C4 temp comp. Fixed trimmer is 13 picofarad, as the change indicates. Is this a tubular mica of some sort, and do I really need to replace it? Same question for C6, 47 pF on the 50C5 tube. ![]()
Hello, ![]() Looking for a schematic for this meter ![]() I’ve gotten a PT-4 which has the Bakelite case having a big crack. After patching this I need to repaint - it’s currently a dark blue. Most pictures I’ve found seem to show it as white/cream. ![]()
Any of you guys have one of these signal generators. The manual says it has a built in vtvm, I assume for testing db, but it doesnt say how |