Hi all! New member here! I'm resurrecting an almost 4-year old thread, as I've joined the ranks as a proud owner of this STA-225 receiver! Honestly, this was the last forum I would have expected to find such a wonderful post on this receiver! I'm glad I found it! Anyway, here are some pictures of my newly acquired STA-225. The receiver went straight from the shipping box to my commercial-grade Pitney Bowes scale to check the weight. Impressive! I was pleasantly surprised to see how nice the dial lights looked, as the original eBay pictures suggested they needed to be replaced! I already have some questions, but I would like to know if I should post them here or start a new topic. Thanks for having me here! I just noticed that I don't see anywhere to include pictures. Could that be because I'm a new member?
Mark
Good morning all! Thanks for accepting me into the PHILCO Phorum.
I'm working on a Philco 41-95 farm radio. I've rewired the entire chassis and replaced all components.
I'm looking for the dial cord diagram for this radio. I've located numerous pictures on line and I think I've solved the problem, but if anyone happens to have a diagram of this, it would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance!!
Ken Ballard
Hello Everyone;
I picked up a British made Bush DAC 90A today, it was the second generation in a series of post war AC/DC radios made by Bush Radio. In any event it is a series string set, much like an AA5, but unlike an AA5 the audio output tube runs at 190 VDC. What I was wondering is if it would make sense to rewire the set to include a voltage doubler for the plate/anode voltages whilst operating the tube heaters from the 120 volt power line (string adds up to 116.6 volts not including the pilot lamps)? https://www.radio-workshop.co.uk/service...dac90a.pdf
When I'm asking about a voltage doubler is it possible to use the UY41, a half wave tube rectifier, as the first of the diodes, whilst using something like a silicon 1N4007 as the second diode?
Regards
Arran
Picked this up just now for practically nothing.
In need another project like a hole in the head but I couldn’t pass up this space age design.
Anything special I should know about this model before I get started. There’s a small crack which appears easily repairable. The eBay post says plastic but the 1953 ad says this is black Bakelite???
I got this SX-62 up and running today. Replaced the filter cap, some resistors. New power cord. The tubes tested good - just barely. I installed a fuse block, but decided not to hook it up and just have it wired as original. It pulls .6 amps at 112 volts with no transformer heating after 30 minutes.
This works well, but the volume seems low. I’m currently attributing this to worn out 6v6 tubes.
I’ve sourced an original audio transformer if needed.
I expect also have more bad resistors to find, but at least I’ve established basic functionality and not wasting time on something with a blown transformer
Hey folks, need some help please.
Working on an unmodified model 20 (all except the power switch that someone changed). And resistor 12…
For R12, detector cathode bias resistor, the schematics found on Philcoradio site for model 20 show this to be 50K. Service Bulletin 36, table 3 lists resistor 12 as 50K also. Someone replaced it with a 1K resistor. It is the only non-dog-bone in the unit. I have a 2nd model 20 that was modified but it has a 50K dog bone resistor in this spot.
Then to confuse me more, I looked in the Radio-Troubleshooter’s-Handbook (I like to look at the case-histories on models I am working on). In RTH for model 20 it referenced checking the detector tube cathode bias resistor to ensure it is a 200 ohm, 2W resistor and isn’t open.
How can I determine if there was some change done to reduce this resistor value from 50K down to the 1K installed or to the 200 ohm noted in the RTH? Anyone run across this and have any insight? I can replace it with a 50K and see what happens or leave the 1K. (I’m still preparing for re-cap, I discovered this during all my initial checks prior to power on)
Thanks,
George
Three of us at our museum attempted to remove the chassis for a 1936 645K art deco console, only to be stymied and mystified.
There are two rear under-chassis hold down screws, which we removed. After pulling all the knobs, we attempted to pull the chassis
to the rear of the cabinet. It wouldn't budge.
After carefully eyeballing the cabinet from the front, and also from the inside, none of us could see any screws that appeared to be holding the chassis in place. Yet, further tugging with more force had no effect.
I guess it is possible that the chassis is just seized to the wood and we need to coax it harder. But, if someone has a better suggestion based on experience, we'd sure appreciate your guidance.
Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.
ASHEVILLE RADIO MUSEUM
www.avlradiomuseum.org
Hello, Working on a Philco 60 where the AM band stops receiving at about 1450 kc. It just goes silent except for slight noise at full volume. I have to tune the radio back to about 1300 kc before it will start again. I have checked for plates touching and found none. I have rewound the troublesome oscillator coil with 18 turns of #40 wire as it was open. The SW band does not work either. Maybe same problem. Other than that the radio plays quite well. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Dan
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