Posts: 17
Threads: 3
Joined: Mar 2008
Hi All, this is my first venture into antique radio restoration, so please bear with me if I am a bit slow on the uptake.
I have been looking for a radio in this series, from the 40-180, to the 42-380. I even think that there is one made in 1946, following the war, but can't find any documentation on it. Anyway, I fell in love with the rounded "juke-box" looks it offers. In this case concave curves along the lower speaker section really sets it apart from those radios just going straight across or even convex.
I plan to collect a total of two of these radios and restore the cabinets first, so as to use them as left and right speaker cabinets for the component tube gear I already own. By taking out the existing speakers, storing them away, and replacing with another baffle to hold a pair of Hawthorne Silver Irises, or something along that line, I should be able to create not only a great sounding tube experience, but a nice feeling of yesterday along with the music.
At present, this radio looks terrible, in that someone has spray painted it with black paint all around. Some of the paint is coming off, which means that it may not be such a difficult job cleaning off all the paint and old finish. Here is a picture.
[Image: http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/34369/...500Q85.jpg]
There are a few places where some veneer has come off, due to neglect, orhard knocks. However, it looks like none of it is as critical as if the veneer was, bookmatched, or something more complicated as being highly figured. The biggest missing piece can be seen here.
[Image: http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/7478/2...500Q85.jpg]
There are a few other places where a small piece of veneer is missing, but it should not be hard to match and set with some of my existing veneer. From the looks of things, the veneer that is off in the picture appears to be walnut, but I need to get off more to know for certain.
And here is the shot of the rear of the radio.
[Image: http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/18440/...500Q85.jpg]
Everything seems to be pretty much all there. The amplifier has not been ripped out, and even the antenna is in place. The face plate for the radio, and all the push buttons will have to be replaced, but I have a couple of places where I can pick them up.
That is pretty much it for now. In the Raleigh area, we are getting much needed rain, so when the sun comes out again, I will begin stripping the lovely black paint from the radio carcus.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to what I should use for a paint/finish remover? And will 3M scouring pads, or sheets, work for cleaning off the residue?
Oh, one other question. Are the amps in these units single ended? And what sort of power do they put out? I'm not really expecting very much, so the efficiency of the speaker must be very high.
Thanks, up front, for the help, as I go along. I think I will find rebuilding radios to be a rewarding experience.
Posts: 17
Threads: 3
Joined: Mar 2008
I have applied three coats of paint/varnish remover to the bottom half of the radio, and it is frustrating.
First, getting all the paint and varnish off the bottom trimwork is not happening all that well.
Second, on some of the vertical wood pieces on the front of the grill, the black from the paint has actually been absorbed into the wood, and will not come out with remover or application of mineral spirits.
Here are some pictures.
[Image: http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/42537/...500Q85.jpg]
[Image: http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/41421/...500Q85.jpg]
[Image: http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/16653/...500Q85.jpg]
Looking at the bottom left of the last picture, at the bottom of the left verticle piece, those dark patches are not from any finish left on the wood. It is like a dye stain that has entered the wood.
does anyone have any suggestions for getting this out?
For lively debate that is Libertarian/Classic Liberal oriented, try Ai-Jane.org. We aim to please.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hi John
Oh my, you picked quite a project as your first restoration.
Once you get past that painted cabinet, and replace the escutcheon and pushbuttons with new repros from Old-Time Replications...you have that chassis to deal with.
That series (41-250/255/280/285/290/296) are, IMHO, the HARDEST Philcos to work on. Due to the man-hours it takes to properly restore one of these beasties, I no longer repair them for others. Rubber-covered wire galore...just wait until you get to the band switch.
But you want cabinet advice...
An option, though toxic and requiring use of heavy-duty rubber gloves, is acetone rubbed on with 0000 steel wool. It will remove just about anything. You should only use this OUTDOORS due to the toxic vapors.
Most strippers these days are environmentally-friendly crap that will barely take off one layer of old lacquer.
Now to your question about the vertical piece to the left of the grille. That coloring is the base for the photofinish used on these two vertical bars (to the left and right of the grille proper). See the 41-280X in my site's Philco Gallery.
http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1941a.htm#ae
Like the black paint, you will get the dark brown off with stripping, and patience.
Once stripped, you have two choices:
1. Try to replicate the photofinish on those bars; or
2. Just apply new tinted lacquer and forget it.
Bear in mind that with option 2, those bars are going to look VERY plain. That is cheap white wood under the fancy photofinish. (The photofinish is obviously gone on your set, but you can see it in the photo in my Gallery.)
If you're interested in replicating the original photofinish, look here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/schooley/
Finally, if you are interested, here is a complete listing of the Philco model numbers of this series:
39-31XK (January 1939)
40-180XF
41-280X
42-380X
46-480
Good luck with your project.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 17
Threads: 3
Joined: Mar 2008
Photo finish? Good Heavens!, I never thought of that one. I guess there is just about anything that can be done if someone sets their mind to it.
Who would have thought?!
Thanks for the heads up Ron.
For lively debate that is Libertarian/Classic Liberal oriented, try Ai-Jane.org. We aim to please.
Posts: 17
Threads: 3
Joined: Mar 2008
Here is the radio, turned on it's face, down in the shop.
[Image: http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/43207/...500Q85.jpg]
I removed the antenna, marked the wiring, and then removed the speaker with it's baffle support. Under it was what appears to be a piece of masonite, with some real cheap grill cloth in front.
[Image: http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/37251/...500Q85.jpg]
But here's the 'money' shot. If you look closely, you can see that there are small screws wedged in at the top of each wooden rod. Boy, that sure made my day, on the stripping and finishing field.
[Image: http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/31115/...500Q85.jpg]
Here's a closer shot.
[Image: http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/29186/...500Q85.jpg]
The screws are a modified Robertson/philips tip that will accept either one.
And here are some shots of the brain.
[Image: http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/40922/...500Q85.jpg]
[Image: http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/32751/...500Q85.jpg]
[Image: http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/40802/...500Q85.jpg]
Lot of 'stuff' in there.
Here is the cabinet before I pulled out the rods.
[Image: http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/41964/...500Q85.jpg]
And without them. As you can clearly see, getting in there will be a whole lot easier.
[Image: http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/22050/...500Q85.jpg]
I also did more scraping of the front and top of the radio, without any stripper. some of the paint has come off, and I am not certain what to do with that little plate just above the grill, and below the face plate. It is clearly some nice mahogany, and also has the subdued "Philco" label. If I try sanding or paint and varnish remover, it will get removed.
Are there places where one can print or purchase "Philco" decals to reattach to the radio?
For lively debate that is Libertarian/Classic Liberal oriented, try Ai-Jane.org. We aim to please.
Posts: 234
Threads: 43
Joined: Mar 2008
City: Mission Viejo, CA
You are definitely making good progress.
I had never heard of "photofinish" until today.
The chassis on your radio looks identical to the one in my 41-250. It seems that every part has the Philco name and part number. I will replace all of the wiring, and all of the capacitors, but will save the old stuff in a little bag stapled inside of the cabinet.
Posts: 17
Threads: 3
Joined: Mar 2008
FStephenMasek Wrote:You are definitely making good progress.
I had never heard of "photofinish" until today.
The chassis on your radio looks identical to the one in my 41-250. It seems that every part has the Philco name and part number. I will replace all of the wiring, and all of the capacitors, but will save the old stuff in a little bag stapled inside of the cabinet.
Hi Stephen. Your radio has exactly the same electronics as that of the 41-280. The only main difference is the 12" woofer and the cabinet..
And like you, until Ron mentioned 'photo finish', I had no idea about it. But on second thought, it makes perfect sense, where money is concerned. And it is quite ingenious in fact. Just think: print a wood grain effect, and then use inks and oils to touch it up. Then apply and finish. Amazing! I'm going to play around with this way of touching up wood.
Actually I have lots of veneer that I could use for this console, but by using the photo finish, I could use the very same finish on the second console of this series that I plan to obtain and use at the second enclosure for my future tube audio speaker system.
For lively debate that is Libertarian/Classic Liberal oriented, try Ai-Jane.org. We aim to please.
Posts: 270
Threads: 12
Joined: Nov 2005
City: Nashville, TN
Hi John,
Go ahead and remove the paint from the wooden area above the grille. I thought this was walnut?
As it is already half stripped, and trying to save the Philco decal would be futile a new decal would look much better when finished..
The decal sheets are available at AES or Radio Daze. I think the radio daze sheest ar $5 each and have different sizes of decals of the logo, plus on off, tuning and the other knob markings.
http://www.radiodaze.com/reprodecals-Philco.htm
http://www.radiodaze.com/RDdecals.pdf
There are even tips on how to apply the decals.
With your refinish, you will apply them before the last coats of lacquer.
Looks like you're coming along well.
Gary.
PS. your speakerboard looks like my 40-180, maybe it uses the same cloth which is actually a mesh/ open weave cloth?
Posts: 18
Threads: 5
Joined: Mar 2010
City: Wake Forest, NC
Hi John:
I'm also rebuilding a floor model, 42-380.
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=2307 I've gotten quotes on cabinet refinishing, less the photo finish for around $300 to $350.
After the work you have put in yours would you recommend doing yourself or taking it to someone?
Just curious.
On a side note, I was at the Raleigh RAR's hamfest today looking for tubes and/or a tube tester. Didn't see any testers worth while, (one old heathkit in severe disrepair) but I did discover several sources for tubes. I think I could restore and retube about 20 or 30 radio's for the price of a decent tube tester. Most of the tube places also test prior to ship.
Good Luck and thanks for posting the pictures,
Russ
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
I agree with all. Once you get everything out of the cabinet, you can make your own paint remover. Take a real large bucket (galvanized iron OK, mix in a a can of lye to a couple of gallons of cold water, (use eye protection and butyl gloves. Then mix in a half a cup of cornstarch, stir it in and you will have glop that will remove anything aka old time stripper. Brush liberally on the piece and don't let it dry. Be sure the run-off isn't going anywhere important, and of course you are outdoors. You can shoot the crap off with a hose, or wipe it off with paper towels, or scrape with a putty knife, but remember this stuff is dangerous, and needs to be discarded properly. Two applications might be needed, and any loose veneer will have to be glued and clamped later on when the whole thing dries out. Digging into the crevices and stubborn places takes time an patience. You can neutrilize the PH with a dilute vinegar solution, but I never bothered. Just clean off your tools and the bucket with plenty of water, send your clothes and body promptly to the wash.
If a piece of trim is going to ultimately be very dark in color, you need not worry about getting all the color out of it, just the junk. And yeah, you can try to use a Qtip with some peroxide or laundry bleach to try to remove a flower pot stain on the top, even if you have to use a scalpel to nudge open the pores along the stain line to accept the bleach. A tinted lacquer will mitigate multiple past sins. Besides, somewhere along the way, somebody is going to put another flower pot just in the same place.
They don't call me Hazmat for nothing.
Have fun!
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