[NN7X]

[Image: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/...crvgdv.jpg]
OMG What have I got myself into?
Thanks to Ron and Admins for letting me in...hope I don't make them regret it.
Had time today to start disassembly of my chassis.Had some words of warning and good advice from PA Radio Geek about the rf sub chassis and Paul Philco about Beer consumption and radio repair....Thanks to both.
Couple of hours and some head scratching got it out....everything labeled nicely.
Maybe not totally necessary but to me it seems like it will be easier.
[Image: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/...d0wqlz.jpg]
First thing I found was exactly why you never plug in an old radio without a check up...right.

[Image: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/...eqbekv.jpg]
So here comes the questions...
1) the original power cord would have been cloth covered?
2) what gauge of wire?
3) Many of the cloth wires are damaged in several places so many will be replaced...what guage?
Will add a polarized plug and fuse block on the power cord, was just thinking cloth would look nice.
More to come tomorrow.
Lee/NN7X

[Radioroslyn]

1937 is the year that Philco started using rubber cords. 18Ga is fine. As for the cloth wire 22 or 24Ga would be fine but there isn't a lot of choices. You'll want to go with 600v insulation.

Terry N3GTE

[mikethedruid]

For replacing the rubber wiring you can use PVC insulated wire. You can find boxes with rolls of several colors from eBay. 18 gauge should be fine.  (  http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-GAUGE-WIRE-10...3f252d52fc  ) for example. Also, because the original cord was also rubber covered you can purchase cord sets with the plug already molded on from eBay  (  http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-Lamp-Cord-Set...418ce45a37  ) for example. Hope this is of some help.

[PAradiogeek]

Definitely need to label the wires that go between the two chassis sections. Too many to keep straight otherwise.

I recommend removing the side walls of the RF chassis to give you better access to a couple of the caps that need to be replaced. The walls are held in place by screws.

Keep us posted.

[NN7X]

Definitely need to label the wires that go between the two chassis sections.  Too many to keep straight otherwise.

I recommend removing the side walls of the RF chassis to give you better access to a couple of the caps that need to be replaced.  The walls are held in place by screws.

Keep us posted.

PAradiogeek...thanks again.
Been pouring over the schematics and 40 some pictures I took during the destruction...
Making up a parts list and trying to put together my work bench in the garage but it's been in the upper 90's for the last week or so...hard to get stuff done.
Going to try and source the caps and resistors locally...been many years since I've bought components .
Did run into a part I am not familiar with..looks like a large resistor ..called wave switch antenna...the fabric covering it fell apart as soon as I touched it.
Upper left of picture.
[Image: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/...d0wqlz.jpg]
NN7X

[PAradiogeek]

Lee,

If you are referring to that big tubular thing with the black woven cloth around it that connects between one of the e-caps at the left and the bakelite block over toward right-center, I'm pretty sure that that was a resistor.  You have to remember that some of the schematics and chassis drawings from this era contained mistakes.

So as I said, I believe it is just a 2 W dogbone resistor.  Can you post a picture of that item after the cloth was removed?

[Crist Rigotti]

"The switch antenna" is typo error on the location drawing.

[Radioroslyn]

That's #64  9K @ 2W on the 37-620 schematic. ' 630 is the same but has a shadowgraph.

Terry

[NN7X]

That's #64  9K @ 2W on the 37-620 schematic. ' 630 is the same but has a shadowgraph.

Terry

Thanks guy's I was thinking it was a mistake...
I'll make the change on my schematic..
Got 10 hours in at work today ...looks like 6-10's for the next 8 weeks....
I'm too old for this crap..
Lee

[Crist Rigotti]

That's #64  9K @ 2W on the 37-620 schematic. ' 630 is the same but has a shadowgraph.

Terry

Thanks guy's I was thinking it was a mistake...
I'll make the change on my schematic..
Got 10 hours in at work today ...looks like 6-10's for the next 8 weeks....
I'm too old for this crap..
Lee

Retirement is very nice!

[NN7X]

That's #64  9K @ 2W on the 37-620 schematic. ' 630 is the same but has a shadowgraph.

Terry

Thanks guy's I was thinking it was a mistake...
I'll make the change on my schematic..
Got 10 hours in at work today ...looks like 6-10's for the next 8 weeks....
I'm too old for this crap..
Lee

Retirement is very nice!

Three more years unless I hit the Lottery...

[Crist Rigotti]

That's #64  9K @ 2W on the 37-620 schematic. ' 630 is the same but has a shadowgraph.

Terry

Thanks guy's I was thinking it was a mistake...
I'll make the change on my schematic..
Got 10 hours in at work today ...looks like 6-10's for the next 8 weeks....
I'm too old for this crap..
Lee

Retirement is very nice!

Three more years unless I hit the Lottery...

Hang in there.  It'll go fast, especially the last year.

[NN7X]

Well Phorum..here's my next newbie question..
I haven't ordered replacement parts in several dozen years...not quite sure how close on the cap values I need to be.

Some .015 caps with 200v and some with 400v values....am I safe going with just the 400v?
Some of the values in the radio don't seem to be offered on the sites I've looked at.

And not quit sure which .015mfd caps for the double bakelite rebuild...x1...y1?

[Warren]

Never hurts to go higher in voltage, the cap will just be able to take a higher voltage, no difference otherwise.

[KCMike]

Hello NN7X. You might look at this info on safety caps.

http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html