[ccomer1955]

    Before I do anything to this radio, it is not Bakelite, correct? So a paint stripper would be a bad idea? Is it best to remove all of the old paint, or is it OK to sand smooth, primer, and paint? The cabinet came in black and ivory. The one I have is ivory. Does anyone know of a current paint that matches the 1951 ivory Philco used?

[Paul Philco322]

Those 1951 models are listed in the index on PhilcoRadio.com. Most of the sister radios are listed there as plastic. From your photo I am guessing that someone may have painted that and it was originally a brown one. They are a sharp set, there were some cool sets in 51 from a style point of view. If you pull everything out and off that cabinet maybe that paint could come of with a soft brush and soapy warm water, maybe soak it. I am not sure if you want and paper labeling on it to stick around though. How does the chassis look?

Paul

[ccomer1955]

Not bad. The filter caps had been replaced, but no others. Everything else was pretty clean. The IFs, coils, and output transformers all tested good. The biggest electronic issue I could find was a bit of a puzzler. It has four of the fine wires coming OUT of the loop antenna (one of those with fine gauge wire glued in a one inch wide strip) and they are soldered to both the antenna posts and to the antenna and oscillator gangs on the tuning cap. I haven't messed with it yet, but I wonder about soldering antenna leads to the tuning cap. One of the knobs had a broken shaft and the speaker needed some patching (I've done that already). I haven't tested the tubes yet, but I expect to need to replace some resistors when I get into it along with all the caps.

The worst cosmetic issue seems to be that paint and the decal on the back of the dial glass has some serious rippling in it. I can't find a replacement decal, so I may have to get creative on that.

[ccomer1955]

I went back and looked at it again, and if it was originally brown and painted later, whoever did that pulled up the labels intact and re-glued them on the ivory paint including the pilot light cover. So I'm betting it is original.

I do kind of like the look of it, though. It reminds me of the front end of a 50s car or truck with its big grill and squared up front.

[Ron Ramirez]

I have two Philco Tropic versions of that set, and both are Bakelite.

[ccomer1955]

I guess I could try a small area on the bottom or inside with some stripper and see how it goes. It seems to me that stripping the cabinet, if possible without damaging it, would be preferable to "feathering" with sandpaper.

Either way, is the preferred method to stay on primer, sand, then apply the color coat? I've read threads where people advocate a clear coat on top, and other threads where they say to never clear coat.

[Eric Adams]

Get over to Walmart and get this: Citristrip. It worked for me on Bakelite with no damage to the original finish.

[ccomer1955]

Wow. I read your mind and already got some. It works pretty well. I'm reapplying in some crevices, but the cabinet bare Bakelite has a nice gloss to it underneath. I think I might leave it if the Bakelite brown was an option. I have a small, but tightly joined crack in the top, but I read a technique with superglue and packing tape that I might try. If it looks good, maybe I'm almost ready for reassembly.

Any ideas about what to do with the dial scale?

       

[ccomer1955]

The stripping went pretty well, I think. The Bakelite finish has a nice gloss on it, and I'm thinking why paint it? Stripping revealed the extent of the cracks, though. A half inch long crack at the left rear base and a 6 inch crack on the top.

I guess at this point I have three options:

1) repair the cracks and leave the Bakelite finish (but the cracks will show).
2) repair the cracks and cover them with one of the Philco color options: ebony, ivory, or mahogany.
3) repair the cracks and go for a hot rod finish like a two-tone 57 Fairlane.

   

[Eric Adams]

I would repair all of the cracks and repaint with ivory. Wallmart sells a great primer in the automotive section by Rust-oleum called filler primer. Then go to the paint section and get the ivory by Rust-oleum. I've used both products and they will give you a great finish.

[Paul Philco322]

Your on your way, it is shaping up nice!

Paul

[ccomer1955]

Gloss ivory or semi-gloss? Seems like gloss would be the way to go with plastic.

[ccomer1955]

Well, I sanded the primer and re-applied and re-sanded until I could no longer see or feel any bumps or grooves. Then I sprayed on a couple of coats of ivory gloss. I'm mostly happy with the finish, but I have one drip that will need to be sanded out and on one side, I have a kind of pebbly texture (really small pebbles that cover about a two inch square area) that I will also need to sand.
Should I sand right away or is it better to let the paint cure for a bit before sanding?

[Eric Adams]

Charlie,

I would wait at least a day. After wet sanding I would rub it out with either Novus #2 or automotive rubbing compound.