[Radioroslyn]

>Terry and I worked through this on the phone yesterday (that man has the patience of a saint).
You forgot to add: And a sense of humor!!!![Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_lol.gif]

I'll mention in passing that if you are using globe style tubes those seem to be a little more prone to have issues. A lot of folks like them for the looks but for reliability I'd use the shouldered tubes.

Tnx for the kind words!

[WallaceRoger]

Last night I pulled the volume pot out, disassembled and sprayed with contact cleaner (there was a decent amount of crud in it), a tiny bit of light oil on the shafts and that helped a little, too. When I first turn it on, volume is quite loud, then it slowly drops out over time until it's hidden by the noise.

I ordered another replacement 24 tube and I'll report back with results. The replacement 27 I was using didn't seem to help before, so I'll focus on the others for now.

I got to listen for about 30 minutes today! A little better.

[WallaceRoger]

Success!

The replacement 24 tube I bought to replace the original dead one had the hot tube fault. I replaced it and I also hooked up the new loop antenna recommended on another thread and I'm getting WLS 890 loud and clear.

The tube that arrived today is a 24A, but the radio doesn't seem to care.

I'm only pulling in 2-3 stations. I suspect the steel rebar in my building affects my reception, somewhat?

[Video: https://youtu.be/N33bdZkJ2uQ]

Now if I can only find something that isn't politics.

[morzh]

And you have to align your radio. It is a TRF set, it relies heavily on all three stages being aligned for maximum sensitivity.

[GarySP]

Actually, the 24A was an improved version of the 24.  I have all 24A's in my 20.  Take care, Gary

[morzh]

I never saw 24 tube. Only saw, or have, 24A.

[WallaceRoger]

Yep, I'll tackle that this week. I hope it lets me grab a few more stations. Is there a good guide someplace that will help me do that properly?

I found WMVP, so listening to the all star game. Much better.

[morzh]

I think Riders has it in the same file with the sch.
It is pretty simple as there is no oscillator.

[WallaceRoger]

Ok, will have a look.

Thanks for all your help, guys.

[WallaceRoger]

One thing I do need to do is trim back and reattach the speaker plug. The cord just at the point it enters the plug is in kind of crappy shape after being twisted and moved around excessively by me.

What do you guys use to put the plug halves back together after you've drilled out the rivets? I'm worried pop rivets will crack the bakelite.

[morzh]

Yes it will break the backelite.

Use the rivet you'd normally use. Like a proper length and diameter copper rivet.
Take the mandrel out of the barrel.
Insert the barrel like you would otherwise in the plug, and using a large tool with conical end, like a large screw exteactor, and a hamner, flare the protruding end which otherwise would be flared with the mandrel. Tap lightly, until fully flared. Works beautifully.

[Steve Davis]

It takes some patience but the bakelite speaker plugs can be rewired without removing the rivets. Unsolder the wires from the plug. Strip about 1-1/2 inch of insulation off each wire. Then, tin just the tip of each wire, only about 1/8 of an inch. The wires are flexible enough that you can thread them through the back of the plug and into the pins. When the wires start to come through the pins, use a pair of pliers to pull the wires the rest of the way. It's not easy, but I have done this on several Philco speaker plugs.

Steve