I carefully followed the extensive thread between John F and Eddie Brimmer regarding John's Philco Baby Grand refinish project. I read and re-read it, and finally mustered the courage to take a stab at doing my own 90. I got to grain filling, using Pore O Pac Medium Brown Walnut just as Eddie recommended. My cabinet is very much darker at this stage than John's was. In fact it closely resembles the reproduction cabinet made by Steve Davis. I am torn because I highly admire Steve's work, but don't understand why my cabinet looks so much different than John's. I sprayed 2 coat of gloss clear and haven't moved on to toning yet. I'm wondering what to do going forward. I planned to use perfect brown for the majority of the cabinet, with extra dark walnut for the base molding. I'm afraid that starting out so dark, I'll just have a mess on my hand. Maybe a light coat of toner to incorporate some reddish hue, then finish coats??
Unfortunately unless you sand or strip it down you will not get the light colors back.
Stripping may not be necessary but sanding could take more time.
If you strip then you will have to refill the cabinet.
It's a toss up but these are the only options if you are unhappy with the outcome.
Sanding sealer is cheap at Home Depot so grab some and get to it.
I'll certainly invest in some sealer for future projects!
I think I'll try sanding it. Any recommendations as to the progression of grits?
I would like to keep some of the color that the grain filler imparted.
What I can't figure is that Eddie's directions don't mention sealing prior to filling, and the pictures of the project he was directing didn't turn out nearly as dark as mine!
He was probably using a neutral Por-O-Pac. I followed that entire restoration when they did it and even responded a few times. It was a plethora of information..
Sanding will clog the paper unless you really removed the excess. Do not use steel wool. It will take out the grain filler. I start with 220 and go up using a block. How are you at spraying? If you can gloss coat it with little effort then go up to 2000 if need be. If you are not a perfect sprayer then don't bother extra fine sanding the cabinet as you will be sanding the finish between coats anyway.
I used to finish up to 2000 and then lacquer. Then I would sand to rottenstone all over again. Now I just lightly sand with 400 before clearing the cabinet. The elbow grease goes in after lacquer when it cures.
I'm going to use mohawk rattle can clear gloss and finish with satin. It certainly was an extensive post with a ton of info to try to absorb. There is SO much out here with everyone having different techniques and opinions!!
Thanks for helping me.
I wish I could post photos here but it always says the attachment is to large. A pic is on the "other" forum
I always open the pictures and edit them to under 800x800 pixels.
Are you on a Mac? Mac lets you just double clock on a photo and edit it.
Dell and others make you open it in paint to resize. It's easy if you get it done once.
I will help you if you like.. Did you see the section for adding pics on the Phorum?
When you take pics with the Iphone do you transfer them to yourself by bluetooth or email them to yourself.
If you email them to yourself it asks what size. Choose small or Medium.
Otherwise use paint and resize by pixels, not inches. it has to be under 800 pixels both ways.
Thanks again!!I'll give this a try. I typically email them to myself
I'm going to start sanding today. Do I need to apply sanding sealer diring this process? The cabinet currently has 2 coats of clear on it from which has cured for 3 days.
I compared my cabinet to the photo on Steve Davis's repro page and the tone is nearly identical except for the finished trim, and possibly the fancy wood arch. It may not require too much to get to where I'd like it to be.
Fingers are crossed
(This post was last modified: 08-28-2017, 10:43 AM by mcusi.
Edit Reason: Add pic
)
Thanks to you!
I removed the clear from the front panel and sanded with 220,320, and 400. Seems like the grain filler held up. Should I re-clear it, then move on to perfect brown toner?
I noticed that you mentioned sanding between coats of lacquer. Do you do that after every coat, toner as well? What grit should I use?
You can clear before toner with no problems. I usually just mist coat it clear and then tone.
I will be honest, I dont sand between coats.. I do all the finishing and flattening and rubbing and crying after a month of curing.
A brisk 400 sanding between coats can be done if you want to lessen the later torture..
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
