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City: Burke, VA
Thank you Bob and Ron very much. Now it all makes sense! I'm not sure if it is OK to ask but I was looking at the inspiring work that you (Ron) did on the 37-640 and was wondering where you found all the multicolor wires that are cloth covered. Also, what is the difference between the 37-640 and 37-620 if you don't mind my asking.
Posts: 5,162
Threads: 273
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Ron will let you know where he gets his wire but here is where I often get mine. RadioDaze and Antique Electronic Supply
Also see the Phorum Resources page and scroll down to wire.
Posts: 7,295
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
The '620 vs '640 both sets are fairly similar but the 640 has a shadow meter and push/pull audio output stage (read plays louder and w/less distortion). The 630 is the same as your 620 but it has the shadow meter too.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 11
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2017
City: Burke, VA
Thank you Bob and Terry. Originally I was just going to change out the wires that were exposed to a lot of air (like the speaker wires that are starting to crumble) but now I'm considering all new wiring. Any advice on the wisdom of leaving well enough alone and going for the whole thing?
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
I get my cloth-covered wire from Radio Daze.
I used to buy it from Antique Electronic Supply. I stopped buying things from them when they shifted focus to guitar amps and started dropping their vintage radio offerings. No, I'm not boycotting them or anything like that; it simply became more convenient to buy from Radio Daze as they had more of the stuff I needed than AES did.
But anyway, following Bob's link, I am surprised to find that they still sell cloth-covered wire.
I should go back to AES and get some of those 8 uF Solen caps for some of my earlier Philcos (70 and two 90s, among others) that still need to be restored.
Back on subject...Alan, you asked about whether or not to replace all of the wiring. If the wiring is in good shape, I would leave it alone. I would only replace wires that have crumbling insulation.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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Joined: Dec 2017
City: Burke, VA
Thank you very much Ron. I really appreciate all the good advice. I noticed when you tilted forward the RF unit on the 37-640 there is a round looking insulation device at the hinge that I have seen on mine. Do you know what it is made of and is it for insulation between units? Mine is in rough shape. Also someone talked about painting the chassis on the 37-640 but you decided against it--was it originally painted? Mine looks like bare metal.
Sincerely,
Alan
Burke, VA
Posts: 7,295
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
> I noticed when you tilted forward the RF unit on the 37-640 there is a round looking insulation device
You might be referring to the rubber washers that are between the rf and main chassis. Repros are available
from Renovated Radios.
>-was it originally painted?
No
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
What Terry said.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 11
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2017
City: Burke, VA
Perfect! Thank you Terry and Ron!
Sincerely,
Alan
Burke, VA
Posts: 4,861
Threads: 54
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I think that these sets, as with most Philcos from the mid 1930s used a cloth wire with push back insulation for hook up wiring, it doesn't normally go bad unless the set has been stored improperly, or it has been exposed to UV light, which is unlikely under the chassis. The same can't be said about the speaker cable, in a table set those are often exposed to tube heat, and sometimes UV light as well, plus they are handled much more often then the hookup wire.
I know that this is about restoring the electrical part of your set but I suspect that your cabinet was refinished some time before you bought it, even though they did add a Philco decal above the dial. The reason I think this is because of the uniform reddish colour in the finish from a gel stain, even on the moldings, and it also looks like whomever refinished it stripped the filler out of the wood grain so it no longer has that glossy burnished look it would have had. They used to call this the "Antique Mall" finish as dealers in antique malls used to do strip N' clearcoats to any furniture they had that had a beat up finish, some didn't even go that far and just rubbed the thing with tung oil giving it a dull blotchy look.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 11
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2017
City: Burke, VA
Thank you Arran!
Sincerely
Alan
Burke, VA
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