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37-610 Restoration
#16

The first cap is 12uF.
The maximum the tube can tolerate is 20uF.
But you should not go much above 12uF as the voltage will rise and the rest of the tubes will run hotter than needed.

Pick the closest value; 12uF does exist in 500V rating. Or you could parallel or serialize. 10uF by Panasonic I use is a better cap with better ripple rating.

The second cap could be almost anything; 10uF is fine, 20uF is also fine. So is 30.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#17

Here's an image of what the original can's probably looked like.

The replacements don't look too bad and could simply be stuffed with the 8 & 12uF caps. Note the negative of the 12uF negative does not go to chassis ground but does go to the center tap of the power transformer.

Or you could see if you can find some original can's.
#18

Hello all,
Please let me know if I can continue to post these types of questions in this section.  Again, I'm new to the Phorum and want to abide by the rules. Altho' I've been a service tech for many years this is my first attempt at restoring a vintage radio.

I'm really puzzled by the bakelite device shown in my attachment.  The schematic layout I have for this 37-610J shows this as ref.#59, which is a dual .015 line bypass capacitor.  But that is not correct.  The twin .015 cap block is at the other end of the chassis and is easily identified because the line cord attaches directly to it.

I'm not even sure the device in question is a cap. I thought it was a coil because it has a direct short across the outer terminals.  I believe the center terminal is just a tie point.

Anyway, I cannot find this device on the schematic.  One end connects to the plate of the 6F6, the other end goes to a tap on the tone switch. 

I've looked everywhere I could think of for the correct schematic and came up empty.  This particular radio has the rectifier socket on the power transformer. 

Hopefully, someone can point me in the right direction.  I'd be really embarrassed if this turns out to be an obvious thing.  Icon_redface 

   
#19

(02-01-2019, 12:52 PM)Randy Ulrich Wrote:  Please let me know if I can continue to post these types of questions in this section.  Again, I'm new to the Phorum and want to abide by the rules.

You're doing fine. Icon_smile In fact, I want to thank you for not starting multiple threads about the same radio - that IS against the Phorum rules.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#20

I forgot to mention … on the side of this device is the marking "8318-SU". And since I made this initial post I've ordered a schematic from Chuck Schwark at the Philco Repair Bench. Hopefully, this print will show the part in question.
#21

8318-SU is a single 0.03uF bakelite cap.  The U indicating that teminal lug 1 is not grounded to the chassis.  The cap should  be between lugs 1 & 3.  See Service Bulletin 289 in the Library section
http://philcoradio.com/library/index.php...bulletins/

I think ths would be cap# 50 on the schematic.
#22

Thanks Bob, that really helps and it makes sense. That cap out of circuit has a dead short across it. What's becoming increasingly clear to me is that the parts layout I have for this radio is not correct. The #50 cap that is shown on my layout doesn't even exist in this radio and their reference to #59 as the AC line bypass cap is not right either.

I wonder if the reason for this discrepancy is because of the placement of the rectifier on the PT as opposed to the chassis next to the output tube.

Anyway, thanks again. Much appreciated.
#23
Smile 

Can you direct me to a good source for these caps?  (The 8, 12 and 16 uf?) I've gone to Mouser, Digi-key and a few other suppliers but haven't really been too successful. You stated that Panasonic were the types you used but I've not found them. 
Also are you using a 500V rating or is 450V sufficient?  The original caps are missing on this radio so I don't know what the original ratings were and I'm not seeing a rating on the parts list.
And lastly, are you using radial or axial lead types?
Thanks in advance for helping out this newbie.  Icon_smile
#24

Can you direct me to a good source for these caps? (The 8, 12 and 16 uf?)
You might have a look here. JUST RADIOS. They do have a minimum order of 20.00.
I have used them and had good service.

https://www.justradios.com/cart.html
#25

Thanks for the tip.  As I'm learning to navigate the huge resources of this site I found the answer to my question regarding working voltages for these caps in the Philco Library under Parts Lists.  Thanks again!
#26

Also, you do not necessarily need exact values.

Mouser is my go-to place for most parts. It has pretty much all I need, except maybe magnetics, and even then....

I use 500V for some places and 450V for others. My staple cap is 22uF 450V, a high ripple Panasonic one, and when I need 10-12uF for the first filter cap, I simply serialize the two. It will work even without the anti-leakage resistors.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




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