Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Another 48-482 (cabinet)
#1

Today I began work on the cabinet of the 48-482 whose electronics I just finished. The cabinet had the usual scuffs and scratches on its outside, and on the top there was an area about 2 1/2 inches in diameter where the finish was beginning to "buckle" as if someone had left something damp on there, but not bad enough to discolor the wood itself. I didn't want to completely strip the cabinet since the faux finish on the front control panel and the decals were perfect, so I tried something else. Minwax maxes a product called "Antique Furniture Re-finisher. It is a combination of three solvents. It re-softens the old finish when it is applied. It is applied with 0000 steel wool, and, depending on how vigorously you go at it, you can remove just a little of the old finish and redistribute the rest, or keep going and remove as much as you like. I chose to just do the minimum necessary to spread finish over the scratches, and fix the "buckled" finish on the top. While the finish is wet with the re-finisher you can get an idea of what the wood will look like when the piece is all done, but when the piece dries after working it with the re-finisher, and re-spreading the old finish, it is going to look TERRIBLE when it dries ! Hazy and swirly ain't in it! DON'T fret ! Once it dried, and it dried very quickly because of the kinds of solvents used, I sanded the surface lightly with 320 grit  just to get off any little nubbins from the steel wool. Then I put on the first coat of tung oil finish. It looks great already. All the haziness is gone, the scratches are gone, the finish is smoothed and evened out. No damage to the decals, they look fine A couple more coats and this radio is going to look GREAT ! I just thought I'd let folks know about my experience. It's another tool to add to the toolbox.




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
trying to identify this wire type
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM
trying to identify this wire type
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
Hi everyone,  Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Here's one source for your wire of many. Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM
trying to identify this wire type
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM
trying to identify this wire type
The red wire is rubber covered wire. The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Greetings Phorum members, Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached.  I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind. Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>