Posts: 12
Threads: 3
Joined: Oct 2010
Thanks for letting me join this forum. My neighbor was cleaning out her house prior to selling it and found an old Philco radio in the basement. Apparently her father had attempted to "antique" the cabinet and failed. She offered me the radio and is in the process of doing a proper refinishing on the cabinet. So all I have right now is the chassis (no speaker or face plate). Fortunately, she had a copy of Ron Ramirez' book "Philco Radio1928-1942", and I was able to identify the model from the tube compliment - the printing on the back of the chassis was so faint it could not be read.
Aside from the need to replace many of the original capacitors, resistors, and line cord, there are no obvious problems. It is missing the 6A7 tube, and I don't know how much trouble that will be to replace. The dial cord is in excellent condition, but the station pre-selector switch gang needs some serious cleaning and gentle lubrication - the buttons are very stiff. I freely admit that I am not much of an electronic technician, but I am a very good mechanic and worked for HP wiring the old 202 series AM/FM generators back in the '60s. So I know how to solder. :-)
This is my first truly antique radio, but I have been puttering with older electronics for the last 50+ years. Images of this radio can be seen at: http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/philco-radio/ and images of my other electronic gear can be seen at: http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/old-electronics-and/
Any advice, suggestions, thoughts would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has a digital copy of the operating instructions and/or schematic, I think that might be very useful going forward.
Mike
Posts: 7,248
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Hi Mike and Welcome!
Well it looks like the chaiss is in good shape. The 6A7 tube shouldn't be too hard to find. Aside from the a fore things you mentioned it looks like you got some rubber wire to deal with. You can replace it or sleeve it with shrink tube so you won't have any shorting problems. Would worry about the power transformer being bad too much as usually when they go they will leak some wax or tar. It looks ok. If it has rubber wire (in power transformer) you should pull it apart and replace the wire inside the bell (case) Definitely replace the filters. The diagram for it can be found here http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013298.pdf Those would be #70-72. Ought to be a great sounding set with the push/pull #42 tubes and a real phase inverter (not seen on a lot of Philco's ) and last but not least negative feedback from the output stage to the preamp. One of the nicer/more expensive sets for '39
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 1,703
Threads: 55
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Evanston, IL
Mike,
Welcome! Also see the Schematic Info section of my site for high quality photocopies of the original service info.
Packet inclusive details are on the page. 11x17 enlargement of schematic, dial cord diagram, under chassis
parts location diagram, pushbutton adjustments, etc....
Chuck
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hi Mike
Welcome! We're glad you decided to join us!
Terry has already given you some great advice, to which I can only add: Do watch out for that power transformer. Philco used rubber-covered wires on their power transformer leads during the 1939 model year. Big mistake! The rubber insulation deteriorated rapidly on the transformer leads, which often led to burned-out power transformers. Philco switched back to cloth-covered leads from the 1940 season onward.
To reiterate what Terry has said about the power transformer: If yours is still good, you must resleeve each individual lead. To do so, you have to pull the transformer, remove the lower bell where the wire leads come out, and use heat shrink tubing on every lead as far up as the tubing will go on each lead. It will be best to remove the old rubber insulation before doing this, so that you will be able to get the bell back in place. Be careful! Insulation is extremely critical here! One wrong move and you could not only burn up the transformer anyway, but cause a deadly electric shock to yourself and/or others!
Come to think of it, unless you are very experienced in vintage radio, you might be better off going ahead and replacing that transformer. None of us would want something to happen to you because of a transformer with old rotten rubber-covered leads.
Edit: Yes, if you want excellent service information that is easy to read, contact Chuck and order the complete service info packet for your 39-45. You won't be disappointed.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 7,248
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
<<Edit: Yes, if you want excellent service information that is easy to read, contact Chuck and order the complete service info packet for your 39-45. You won't be disappointed.>>
I'd order on Chuck's info for sure!
It's really nice to have a big 11x17
copy of the schemo where you feel like
you can climb right in with all the parts
and really see what's happening. The
one I sent isn't all that good, good
in a pinch.Some at that site very readable.
For your 6A7 have a look here:http://www.philcoradio.com/resourceb.htm#13
To piggyback on what Ron said maybe it would good to put a fuse in the primary
side of the power transformer. Better a fuse than a transformer. 1to 1 1/2amps
should work fine.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 12
Threads: 3
Joined: Oct 2010
All of the advice given is very welcome and will be followed carefully. (Especially the part about the power transformer - I will test it for shorts/leakage before and after re-sleeving the wires.) I assumed that I would be replacing the line cord, as well as any other wires whose insulation looks suspect. And I will certainly fuse the "hot" side of the line cord with an in-line fuse holder. All that kind of activity is within my capabilities, and I have a good supply of heat small heat shrink tubing and "spaghetti". I haven't even looked at the power supply electrolytic cap yet, but I will likely end up gutting it and stuffing new electrolytic(s) inside the can and re-assembling. And, of course, the "cardboard" and "wax" capacitors will have to be replaced - any recommendations as to type?
Another problem: I just found out that the push buttons for the station selection have been lost. I saw various push buttons for sale on some of the links websites, but I have no idea what the originals looked like. I guess I need the shape (round or square), color (brown or black?), and the dimensions. Apparently, Philco used more than one kind of button (constant change seems to be one of the things that makes Philco an "interesting" manufacturer).
Thanks again,
Mike
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Looking at the schematic for the 39-45, I noticed it has a real, tuned RF amplifier stage, and a three section tuning condenser. So your radio should be an excellent performer when you get it going.
Unless you want to restuff those old wax capacitors, metalized film (yellow) caps work very well as replacements. It's what I use...and I usually buy mine from Bob's Antique Radios in the Chicago area.
http://www.radioantiques.com/
Two vendors are offering 1939 Philco pushbuttons.
http://www.antiqueradioknobs.com/
http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html#pushbuttons
The originals were translucent, red (wine) in color. Be sure you ask for 1939 Philco pushbuttons. They are made differently than 1940 and 1941 Philco pushbuttons.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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