[Radioroslyn]

OK. You have 4 electrolytic caps in your set. 3 of them are in a can (#67) and there is one over by that big power resistor, cap #52. In the original, two of the three in the can are connected with the - wires connected to the metal cover of the capacitor and the two + connections are made at the bottom of the cap The third cap in that can the + is connected to the metal cover and the - is connect to terminal on the bottom.
#52 The + connects at the bottom - to the cover.
If your new cap 3x10uf @ 450V all three - are going to be connected to the cover and the + at the bottom.
What that means is that section that connects to power transformer tap has the polarity backwards. (not good)
Use that section to replace #52 And use a separate 10 or 20uf cap to replace the backwards section. + side goes to the chasiss
- goes to the power transformer.
Make sense?
Terry
ps has your hair started to smoke yet????

[kmskunk4]

Im getting there Terry, thanks for the help I don't want this thing to blow up when I finally plug it in. What it sounds like is i need to cut open the old caps and put in my new capacitors inside the old cap making sure to solder the - end of two of the new capacitors to the inside of the can itself (im assuming this is what you mean by the metal cover). Then for the third capacitor solder the + end to the cover and the negative end to the appropriate wires. And the lead that should be backwards is the bottom most lead on the old can? Am i right this time? I hope so my hair just went up in flames with these caps.

[Radioroslyn]

Yes you could do it that way or use the 3 section can as it is only instead of hooking up the one section that has the reverse polarity use it for #52. The reversed cap you can use a smaller 10 or 20uf @ 50v separate from the can. Just so you know this is sort of unusual as most sets don't have these multi section cans with a section or two wired backwards. Most older set will have just a few single caps which may have a paper insulator to isolate the metal par t of the can from the chassis.
Terry

[kmskunk4]

Thank you both Terry and Bill, you have been a colossal help.

[Radioroslyn]

Love to be a help! What else have you done to the set ? Got any pics?
Terry

[kmskunk4]

Well I picked the set up for $20 and expected some repairs and things but when I got there I found out that the previous owner had tried to fix it up as well and in doing so he sanded down the entire cabinet and then left it unfinished for quite some time which caused all the grain to rise. So i've been doing some work on the cabinet, it's pretty banged up but i'm doing my best. I highly doubt I will get it looking original unless I were to put on new veneer. In addition I think when he sanded it he went a little overkill on the belt sander, so there are some big blemishes. The set itself was missing a type 42 output tube I later found out so i have ordered an new one to fill its place. Other than those minor issues I have only replaced the old frayed power cord and all the paper wax capacitors. My hope is that it sings again once all the rest of the caps are replaced and the tube comes in the mail. If it doesn't i'm not sure what I will do, I don't think I can handle the more complex electronics of the radio.

[Radioroslyn]

>My hope is that it sings again once all the rest of the caps are replaced and the tube comes in the mail. If it doesn't i'm not >sure what I will do, I don't think I can handle the more complex electronics of the radio.

I'm sure you can! With a little guidance and one or two pieces of test equipment.
Is it the table or floor model? I had one of the floor models years ago. It was a good preforming set. Good sound and pretty sensitive up on the SW bands. I saw a table model up on epay a week or two ago. I bidded on it but didn't get it. I like the dial on those '36 models.
Terry

[kmskunk4]

It is the floor model. I love the dial, however, i made the mistake of using a water based cleaner on it and took of a small amount of ink. I could have kicked myself in the head. I'll have to order a replacement when the next pay check comes. We college students aren't known for our money. Quick question, I noticed on the bakelite box caps there are always three hols where the wires that connect to the caps come out, how does this work when there is only 1 cap in the box? I haven't dug in to check this out yet, but it seems when there are 2 caps in the box one hole will have 2 leads coming out of one hole and 1 lead out of the other two.

[Ron Ramirez]

Correct, in bakelite block caps that have two capacitors inside, one hole will have two leads coming out (one from each cap) while the remaining leads of each cap will come through the other two holes.

Our own Chuck has many if not most of the bakelite blocks listed on his site, showing how the capacitors should be connected inside the block to the terminals outside:

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/bblokcap.htm

Any bakelite blocks not listed there will be in the book Philco Condensers and More by Ray Bintliff. Chuck gives ordering information for this book at the top of the page linked above.

Let's back up to that three-section electrolytic. All three electrolytics will have their negative wires tied together if you were to put new electrolytics inside the old can; all three negative leads were/are connected to the can (metal cover). The 10 uF, 50 volt section has its positive lead connected to ground, not vice versa. I just wanted to clarify that; hope this does not confuse you. I made the mistake once of connecting a 10 uF, 50 volt cap backwards with the positive lead connected to the metal can, and the negative to the bottom terminal, and promptly blew the cap since I had it connected backwards. Lesson learned!