Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Rebuilding electrolytic caps question
#1

Hi to all,
I'm in the process of restuffing my first Philco electrolytic capacitor can. I've gotten the can cut open and the old insides removed. I've also got the new cap ready to install, but my problem is that I can't get the solder to adhere to the can to connect the ground lead. I am assuming that the can is aluminum. Is there some trick to soldering aluminum? If anyone has any input or tips on any part of rebuilding these caps, I would really appreciate hearing about them! Thanks!
Kevin
#2

There is no practical or common or reliable way to solder aluminum at the workbench that I know of. You must rely on mechanical contact. If your object is to secure a connection to the chassis, which may also be aluminum, you need a screw and bolt and a steel or copper terminal that you can solder to.
#3

Soldering to the can is very difficult and requires much more heat than a consumer soldering iron can provide. You would have a much more reliable connection if you run the new leads through the bottom of the old capacitor can and solder all of the connections under the chassis.
#4

Thanks for the posts! through trial and error I found out that soldering the can was going to be a no-go, so I came up with an alternative. I ran the negative lead of the new cap through the cut I made opening the can. Then I stripped the wire and and taped the end against the can using some aluminum tape I found at the hardware store, which I also used to seal the can back together. I then replaced the capacitor mounting bracket which covers the seam and neg cap lead. I checked everything over with my meter and all seems to be okay Icon_thumbup
It was quite a bit of work, but actually kind of enjoyed it! This radio is a 37-610 that has never been worked on, so I wanted to try and keep it looking that way!!
Thank you all for the input!
Kevin




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
48-482 rear panel help
Hi Keith, here is an article that covers different FM detector circuits including a section on the theory and alignment ...462ron — 08:26 AM
462ron
Well then Dan I guess this old man’s memory wasn’t too foggy :lolno: although I couldn’t remember where I saw that upgra...462ron — 08:08 AM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Fortunately, I did not have to do much to my GE S-22 (RCA R7A) Almost all caps and the 2 audio transformers packed into...MrFixr55 — 07:44 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Yup Arran is correct it is missing the pushbutton covers. I don't know where they all go but it's a common issue on this...Radioroslyn — 06:48 AM
48-482 rear panel help
I also have one of these, again it never had a back, and no trace of one. I have been told that the pushbuttons used to ...Arran — 03:29 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Thanks Joseph. Hope you get to restore your 48-482 before too long!keithchip — 02:12 AM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
RCAs ain't no cake either.morzh — 10:32 PM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
After a couple of days worth of troubleshooting my signal generator, I gave up. The oscilloscope still worked fine, so I...jrblasde — 09:51 PM
48-482 rear panel help
Yes, I can confirm. I bought one (haven’t restored it yet) which didn’t have a back panel.jrblasde — 09:37 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Try a 39-116.Radioroslyn — 09:24 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 880 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 878 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>