[Bill Hutchinson]

Anyone know of a good suitable replacement switch for the '41 Philcos? I have 3 1941 models, and one I got lucky with and had a good switch, one I cobbled something that works good but not great, and one I just decided to put a switch on the bass control and turn it off and on that way.

Any and all suggestions welcome.

Bill

[Ron Ramirez]

Bill

Lowe's sells a pushbutton switch that looks identical to the original part, but I haven't tried it yet since it requires partial disassembly of the new part in order to try it.

In the meantime, I have used a small push on-push off switch from Radio Shack. The part number is 275-1555. It is SPDT, so there are three terminals in the back; you will only use two and must insulate the third. It's rated at 3 amps @ 125V, enough for the average 1941 Philco.

Link to the switch specs:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index....age=search

Remove the original switch from the pushbutton assembly by grinding, filing or drilling out the two rivets which hold it in place. This exposes a round hole, through which the switch actuator must fit.

How I used it: I popped the plastic button off of the new switch, exposing the small switch actuator inside. I used the threaded collar and attached it to the frame of the pushbutton assembly, where the hole is at the place the original switch had been mounted. To do this, I soldered it to the assembly, but not completely around the collar. In two spots I applied J-B Weld; my reasoning was that if the solder failed, the J-B Weld would hold, and vice versa.

Once the J-B Weld dries, carefully thread the switch into the collar. You will need to reduce the length of the switch actuator a bit; determine how much by partially threading the switch into the collar and operate the OFF-ON button. When you can operate the original OFF-ON button correctly, the actuator is the correct length. Don't cut off too much! The actuator is tapered where the plastic button fit over it, then it goes back to a larger diameter. You'll see what I mean when you pop the plastic button off. I cut it back to the end of the taper (around 1/8" to 3/16"). Sorry I don't have any photos; I know that would help in this instance.

The metal of the original OFF-ON pushbutton arm is bent 90 degrees on the inside end, and will press against the new switch, allowing it to actuate.

You can use Thread-Lock or similar substance to lock the threads in place on the collar if you wish. When you're done, your OFF-ON pushbutton will operate as normal.

A better solution would be to look for an SPST switch such as this one from Mouser, Allied or Digi-Key. But this one worked for me.

One of these days I'll try out the Lowe's switch. I did buy one...but found it much easier to just use the Rat Shack switch instead.

[Bill Hutchinson]

That sounds similar to what I did with the switch I installed (this was in the 41-250). The problem I had with it was not enough spring action to return the button back to normal position, plus when it does come back, it's inconsistent - it was a while ago, and my "CRS" condition prevents me from recalling the details.

At some point, I'll try the procedure and switch part you described. At the very least, I think I need to secure the switch a little better.

Thanks for the tip.

Bill

[Raleigh]

I finally succeeded in getting a new push-button power switch into my 41-280. Someone installed a toggle switch on the back of the cabinet years ago, before I got it, and it has always annoyed me to have to reach behind the cabinet to turn it on.

I found a switch at Ace hardware that is virtually identical to the original Philco switch, except it has a clear plastic top and a metal push button on it. This is probably like the one Ron found at Lowe's. I drilled the rivets that held it together, and inside it is identical to the old Philco switch.

When I drilled the tops off the rivets to remove the old switch from the radio, the bodies of the rivets stayed in place. I decided to leave them as guide pins for the new switch. I cut two pieces of solid 20 ga. wire and soldered them inside the old rivets on the radio, thinking maybe I could bend them around something to hold the new switch on.

I dry-fitted the back of the new switch in place. It might not have been necessary, but I filed a little bit off the rounded edge to make sure the plunger on the radio push button would clear it.

If you look in the hole behind where the old switch was, the push-button plunger has a brass piece with a slot in it. In the new switch there is a spiral-shaped piece of metal with a hook on one end and a sort of "T" at the other end. The hook end of the spiral piece hooks into the slot on the push button plunger.

I put the spring on the spiral piece, narrow side toward the "T." I compressed the spring almost all the way down with my fingers and with some pliers I hooked the end of the spiral piece into the slot in the push button plunger. Then I released the spring and the spring held it in place.

I assembled the rest of the new switch (without the clear top and push button) and held it together with my fingers while I slid it over the old rivets. I bent the two wires I had soldered into the rivets, and they held the new switch loosely in place while I wrapped a tie wrap around the push button assenmbly to hold the new switch in place. (Not very vintage looking, I know. Too bad. I could have drilled out the old rivets and used sheet metal screws, but I don't have any small enough. Besides, I'm not sure how much clearance there is for screws inside the switch block.)

After I actuated the power button on the radio a couple of times, the inside pieces of the new switch fitted themselves together. Then it looked and felt just like the old switch, except for the tie wrap, of course. I wired it up, and without looking inside at the tie-wrap, you can't tell it from the original.

[rickd]

Thought I'd revive this thread to add some pics of a RS switch installation. Didn't use solder or JB weld, like Ron. The installation with the nut and lockwasher seems secure. This is a 41-250 but they all look the same to me.
[Image: http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa75/...oremod.jpg]
[Image: http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa75/.../onbar.jpg]
[Image: http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa75/...nrack2.jpg]
[Image: http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa75/...talled.jpg]

[Chuck Schwark]

You may want to insulate that AC mains voltage on those switch contacts for safety. Just use a big globb of hot-glue over all 3terminals.

[rickd]

Hi Chuck, Appreciate the opinion. Still arguing with myself about those terminals. Was gonna do just that (hot glue), but then looked over at the terminals on the bakelite cap where the power cord connects, and a few B+ terminals here and there. Never sure how far to take that. Might just settle for insulating the unused stub since it's potential isn't obvious.

[TFB]

Ron / rickd

I followed your suggested Radio Shack switch replacement/restoration for a 41-290. It appears to have work great. Thanks for posting and maintaining these information.

[Ron Ramirez]

Over the weekend I used Raleigh's method of replacing one of these switches in a 41-226 "Sled."

The Lowe's switch (which is what I used this time) looks and works just like the original. However, the mounting holes are slightly closer together than are the originals, which can cause a problem. Careful widening of the mounting holes with a drill solved that problem.

The real issue came up when the original actuator and spring came out of the assembly. Some searching and cussing followed. I finally found the actuator and spring. Some more cussing followed, after which I finally succeeded in getting the tab of the actuator back into the slot. I then mounted the new switch, using the new wafer insulator in place of the old one.

Oh, and I did have to file the rounded end of the switch flat in order to accommodate the plunger on the "off-on" pushbutton. This was quickly accomplished with my handy-dandy Dremel tool.

I used epoxy to hold the switch in place. Next time I replace one of these, I think I will see if I can acquire some sheet metal screws that are small in diameter yet long enough to replace the rivets, to fasten the switch more securely.

I'll be chronicling this restoration on my website in the near future, as time allows.

EDIT: I had to use the Lowe's switch because there was not enough room in the 41-226 for the Radio Shack switch.

[dberman51]

Whoever restored my 41-250 did a nice job on the power switch replacement. He fabricated a small aluminum plate to hold a common push-on/push-off lamp switch (any hardware store) and attached it to the back of the push-button assembly with screws and threaded spacers. It looks like he had to trim the plastic actuating button of the new switch a little bit. The assembly just clears the tuning coils behind.

-David

[Ron Ramirez]

I've added a page to my website which details my restoration of a 41-226 chassis. Also included on this page are photos and text on how I replaced the power switch with an authentic-looking replacement, as Raleigh had done on a set previously.

Here's the link:
https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14923