[TonyJSenior]

Yesterday I recapped a 40-120 and this has to be the worst chassis I've worked with so far. Not only was it plagued with rubber wiring that crumbled when moved and needed replacing, some of the caps were just a pain in general to get to. All I have left to do is replace the volume control as the switch is open but after jumpering it I know it works. I have another one in ivory I recently bought, but think it's going to become the parts set as I don't want to touch another one of these again lol.

[Ron Ramirez]

My vote is for the 41-250 chassis and its variations (41-255/280/285/287/290). Hardest Philco (IMHO) to work on; not only do you have the rubber-covered wiring headaches, but the closely spaced three section band switch with all of those rubber-coated wires going to the various sections of that switch virtually guarantees one must disassemble the switch to get to all of the wires.

I used to try and pull the rubber coating off the wires as they went into the switch assembly...until I broke a wafer in the switch assembly. Thereafter, I found it safer (for me, anyway) to disassemble the switch.

It takes a LOT of hours to redo one of these. Too many, I think.

[TonyJSenior]

I'll be sure to steer clear of that one given the opportunity. Although I haven't worked on a lot of them yet, I so far like the 1938 models I've gotten into (38-7 console/table, 38-12 table). Have a 38-3 in the garage that I haven't looked at to form an opinion of yet. The 1928 wasn't a bad one to start off with either. As far as the 40-120, to me it was like stuffing 10 pounds of components into an 9 pound box. All of the non-electrolytic replacement caps I buy have been 600V orange drops. Maybe if I had gone to an axial style with lesser rating it wouldn't have seemed as bad. But then there's that blasted rubber wiring...

[BOBC]

I'd have to agree on that Tony and Ron, my 41-285 was one of the most time consuming SOB's I've had the displeasure of working on. Between the paper capacitors under every nook and cranny, the switch wafer assembly, and then the rubber covered wire, I was sometimes considering using the chassis for target practice. Luckily I obtained some great insulating material for wires, and also used shrink tubing predomintly in the radio, unsoldering only one end of each wire and stripping the mess off. This is the method I used for the switch wafer assembly, carefully holding back top wires for the deeper wires, I used my soldering iron carefully unhooking one end. Surgical clamps are great for this kind of tedious work. Oh by the way, the 37-620 isn't fun either, but after the 41-285, it didn't seem quite so intimidating. Best of luck, BOBC Cincinnati, Ohio

[Raleigh]

I'm kind of a newbie at this, but I have recapped and rewired a 40-150, 41-250, and a 41-280. I am relieved to hear that these are among the more difficult! The band switches on the 41 sets are murder. I didn't know at the time that you can take them apart.

At the moment I am about half way through a 42-350, which has been more difficult for me than the others, mainly because the chassis is a quite a bit smaller than the 41-250 types. Everything is crammed in a little tighter. Also, there are three interstage transformers instead of two. I haven't gotten to the band switch yet.

[Texasrocker]

Try a Zenith 7G-605 Bomber chassis, I have a couple I did complete point-to-point wiring, even into the separate bandswitch bank. Small Philcos are tough, but the Zeniths orig crusty wiring and space restraints tops my hardest of all restorations. Just takes time and lots of patience one wire at a time, and tweezers,a good overhead magnifier lamp, small soldering tips also comes in very handy! TR

[Bill Hutchinson]

As an owner of both a 41-250 and 41-280, I concur with Ron that these things are brutal to work on.

On one of them I resorted to using shrink wrap on some of the hard to get at places - I unsoldered one end and slipped the shrink over the wire. It was quicker and a lot less frustrating.

Bill

[Terry Judkins]

Yes, the 41-250 series is bad but I nominate the 48-482 as the toughest Philco that I have done. Thirty plus caps and some are under the band switch mechanism. I have refurbed three and all were a challenge. I had to disassemble the FM1000 IF transformer in one and replace the tuning slugs someone had broken and had to remove the first IF in another to replace a shorted mica cap. Not easy as all of the wiring is covered by the FM section. But there is no rotten rubber insulation to replace!

A Zenith 7S529 that I restored for my brother was the pits though. I consider it worse than a Philco 41-250 or 48-482. It had rotten rubber wiring and a tiny chassis with tone switches that were missing and broken. Figuring out the wiring to replacement switches was not easy.

[DeckApe]

*bump!*

I am glad to find this thread on a search... I spotted a 41-250 on Our Favorite Auction Site for 99 cents (plus $30 for shipping of course) and was considering it for a practice chassis... but since a great many of you are apparently still shuddering, I think I'll look for another opportunity--like another 40-190, if I can find one.

[Michael Dennis]

I sorta wish I'd found this thread before I bought my 41-255 in early June. Notice I say only "sorta". I still like it but maychance I best not start out as a total noob w/ restoring this one. Heck, I figure I got a good deal on it. JMO.

Mike

Still no score: Fightin' Amish vs. Quaker State, (One last try).

[BDM]

I avoid the rubber wiring sets if at all possible. With that said, the Philco's I choose to own are 35 through 38 model sets. The sets with sub chassis get my hair up! Hard for me to move my big fat fingers through and around those There are worse sets, but I just won't take ownership of one 8)