[morzh]

It probably is OK, yes.

[Eric]

I have to let my repair set up then I will assemble this coil and move on to the next

[Eric]

Got it back together and checked out another coil 39 which is also referred to as 6 broadcast osc padder. as in the alignment inst this is the last adj. But nothing seems to happen so I opened it up both coils are ok 17ohm and .7ohms the padder has a range from about 30pf to 55pf put it all back together went through the steps and it makes no difference on the output meter. If I wasn't already bald I would pull my hair out.

[morzh]

Oh, I am pretty sure for that purpose you could find some if you look well

Do other radios pull that local station in well?

Also: now that I remember you said a #13 resistor was missing. Only one? Have you ensured all parts are in place according to the schematic? Maybe something else is missing also.

[Mondial]

Eric, have you checked the mica cap that is in parallel with the adjustable padder? The fixed mica cap should be several hundred pF. If the fixed cap is bad or off tolerance, it will throw off the tuning range of the osc

[Eric]

unfortunately the print does not give a value for that mica cap but the dots are very clear being left to right brown, brown, black the arrow point facing to the right I believe we determined that it is 11pf I get around 25pf but that is my meter showing about 10pf not connected to any thing.

750am here in Atlanta is a 50k watt station and is one of the dominate stations.

That is correct in that #13 resistor was missing. Looks like the next step is to red pencil the print to see if anything else is out of kilter.

I will be out of town till Monday maybe that will give me time to think things out

[Eric]

Well got back had to catch up on house stuff but started last night troubleshooting but had a hard time believing what I was seeing so here is what I saw.
Started on 6K7 RF.
The cap #2 .1mf is there
Resistor #36 2k ohms is there
Resistor #13 300 ohm is not in its place is a mica cap which I read as 300pf from L to R orange3 black0 and brown1 at the point of the arrow. I checked it on my meter and I get .001mf.
I have the same thing on 6K7 IF .
I changed both to 330 ohm resistors.
Now both of the mica caps have the arrow with the three colored dots on the back is type 800 Micamold, I do get .001mf on both and also get 350ohms which is confusing to this novice but it is pretty close to the right ohmic value. Are they being used as resistors?

[morzh]

So again you found another #13 missing in another tube? It won't work without it.

Now in the sch you do have a 1000pF (0.001uF) cap there but it should not be across the #13, it is from K to Chassis. The #13 is in series with #36 and the latter is by passed by the switch 27 which I think is the distance switch (distant/local), and the cap is across both resistors.

Again, with no 13 the tube is not DC-biased and won't work.

If both are missing I wonder why.

[Mondial]

Eric, Micamold made wirewound resistors which looked just like mica caps, just a bit thinner and longer. They used the standard color code. What you have are probably not caps but 300 ohm resistors.

[Eric]

That is a first for me and you are probably right I changed them both as they were both out of spec. I did find a cap that was .1 which called for a .05, when I recapped I just changed them as I found them so I changed it back to a .05. Went through an alignment and it seemed much more responsive and the stations come in to where I'm good with them even some of the SW stations came in considering it is still daytime but cloudy here. Thanks for all help
eric

[morzh]

Eric

I also suspect from the very end of your message #22 that you measured your capacitance and resistance while having resistor and cap in place; you can't do that. If you have a resistor and a cap that parallel each other you can only measure resistance, but not capacitance. Capacitor is always measured with one lead in the air.

[AI2V]

I don't know if you found the actual alignment procedure but in any case here's a universal procedure for essentially all super-het's. It's all I've ever used:

Generic AM Radio Alignment for Pre-1941 Models
(Radios with power transformers)

PRELIMINARY SAFETY
It is highly recommended that the radio chassis and the test equipment all have a common ground connection. This is not only for safety but to reduce the chance of frying the frequency counter input. There must be a wired ground connection between the radio chassis and all AC powered test equipment. A redundant clip lead between radio chassis and test equipment is highly recommended.

IF ADJUSTMENT

1. Look at the schematic and find the IF frequency. It will be between 130 and 475 KHz for most pre-1945 radios.

2. Turn the radio on; set your radio to the low end of the Broadcast Band (usually around 535 KHz, it’s not critical). Set volume to maximum.

3. If there is a ground post on the signal generator, connect a wire from it to a secure connection on the radio chassis. Set the signal generator to the IF frequency and with no modulation; use a frequency counter to verify the frequency. DO NOT rely on the signal generator dial.

4. Connect your signal generator to the radio antenna post and ground. This is usually done with coaxial cable but plain wire can be used for this adjustment.

5. Turn on the signal generator modulation (around 70% is best but not critical; that’s typically around 75% CW rotation of the modulation knob). Adjust the output level of the signal generator so that you can just hear the modulating tone (usually around 400 to 1000Hz and not critical) coming from the radio speaker.

6. Adjust the IF can(s) for maximum audio while reducing the signal level (not the modulation) to the lowest audible tone. TUBE SHIELDS MUST BE ON. If an adjustment causes a sudden squeal, back off the adjustment as little as possible until the squeal stops. At times there will be high voltage on the adjustment screws so it is wise to wrap tape around your adjustment tool shaft.

7. The IF alignment is now completed.


RF ADJUSTMENT

1. Connect the signal generator to the antenna post through a 300-400 ohm resistor (not critical) and ground.

2. Set the radio to the Broadcast Band, high end of the dial. Note the highest numbered frequency on the dial (usually around 1600 KHz). Now set the radio to the next lower numbered frequency (1500 or 1400 KHz usually). If there aren’t many numbered points, choose a frequency that is closest to ½ inch down the dial from the highest mark.

3. Set your signal generator to the freq determined in the above step (1500 or 1400 usually) with modulation control set to about 75% of maximum. (very roughly 70% modulation, not critical)

4. Locate the Oscillator trimmer cap; it is often located on top of the main tuning cap. If you are not sure which one it is, don’t worry, you will find it easily. It will be the only trimmer to move the dial frequency at this point); as you proceed, you will be correcting any mis-adjustments.

5. Tune the radio in the area of the input signal (1500, 1400); with luck you will hear the signal somewhere near where it should be. If you don’t hear it with an increased signal generator output, you most likely have a problem.

6. If you do hear the injected signal generator tone, notice if it is above or below where it should be. If it is above (1500, 1400), turn the trimmer counter-clockwise; if it is below, turn the trimmer in or clockwise until the dial is accurate at this point.

7. Set the radio and signal generator to 600 KHz. With luck they should be very close. If your radio is equipped with a “padder” adjustment cap (usually located on the chassis), adjust it until you hear the tone at 600 KHz. If you do not have a “padder”, you can loosen the screws behind the dial and move the dial until you hear the signal at 600 KHz. If you do slip the dial, you must go back and repeat steps 5 and 6.

8. Set the radio to the highest marked dial frequency on the Broadcast Band (1600 or 1500 usually). Set your signal generator to the same frequency with the usual modulation.

9. Find the tone by tuning your radio dial; it should be fairly accurate but if it isn’t, there’s probably not a lot you can do to make it perfect. Adjust the BC trimmer for maximum audio with minimum signal generator output level (don’t lower the modulation). If you have a three section tuning cap, you will have two trimmers; the additional trimmer is for “antenna” and is typically a very broad adjustment. At times you will run out of adjustment on the antenna trimmer but don’t worry about it if you do. On the higher-end radios, trimmers are often located in rows on the bottom of the chassis; on these radios the “padder” (600 KHz adjustment) is located near the trimmers but located separately.

10. If you have shortwave bands, repeat steps 8 and 9 while in those bands but choosing a marked dial frequency roughly above the 1600/1500 marks on the dial. There are no “Padders” on shortwave bands in radios with six or less tubes. Padders will be found on all bands only in high-end radios; these are adjusted at a dial mark roughly above the 600 on the broadcast dial.

11. Remove the resistor from the antenna post and connect your antenna. Enjoy your radio.

[Eric]

I have noticed that measuring capacitance can be tricky and I lift one end because the readings never seem to come out.

I did have the alignment procedure for that radio but I printed yours they are pretty close . Thanks.

Eric