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Thanks Geoff, I went out in the garage and checked it is "Novus" Plastic polishing compound. They have 3 different ones, 1 for heavy scratches, light scratches and polishing. Also a cleaner which works pretty good to get it all off after you have polished it, don't have to use it to clean after but I found it works well.
Fields100, do you know what size your viscosity cup is.. Looking on the internet I see they have sizes 0 through 6 I think it is, sounds like most are 4. Thanks, Warren
(This post was last modified: 08-25-2014, 01:15 AM by Warren.)
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Pumice 2F grade = stain
Pumice 4F grade = semi-gloss
Rottenstone = gloss
I use Minwax Paste Finishing Wax for the final step. It fills in very minor scratches and adds a little protection. Feels nice too.
I use felt blocks with water as a lubricated these days. I've also used mineral oil in the past but cleanup is a little messy.
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Excellent job on your console radio, it looks very nice. Enjoy it.
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Warren,
There is no numbers on it, it is 2" in diameter and 2.5" tall cup.I think you should pick up the size convenient for you so you were able to dip it into the mixing jar.When they painted cars the jar was huge, but in your case you will need something slim, like this one.Unless you are doing huge project, but then again, the size of the cup does not affect viscosity adjustment, the orifice does.
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(This post was last modified: 08-27-2014, 08:40 AM by fields 100.)
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yes, they were talking about the size of the hole in the bottom that the "paint" or "laquer" pours out of.I can imagine that would make a difference to how fast it comes out and timing it. I will do some more research and find out the proper size for this i guess.
(This post was last modified: 08-27-2014, 04:17 PM by Warren.)
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The orifice size is about 1/8". I tried to put through the 1/8"bit, and it went slightly loose, but the cup is over 20 years old. Here is my 16B straight after spraying, no polishing involved.
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Nice, looks like a pretty smooth finish. Would you say it was apprx 2 parts thinner to 1 part laquer, or....
Just trying to get a starting point to go with. Thanks.
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Warren,
I honestly can't tell, as it is sensitive to the ratio and I do it by the time elapsed. Don't think though that I had to add that much of a thinner. When I did 19-20 sec it would run on me, but when more than 24 sec. it would give plenty of grain, which would be sanded off anyway, but, as you know, with plenty of labor involved.Higher than optimal air pressure does not help either.If you can't get a visc. cup,I am sure that you can get correct mixture by volume. As you said about getting the starting point.Once you get it by the trial and error, it will be consistent.In my old days the victim always was a side of the garbage can. I like 25-30 psi at the spray gun.
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I will probably get a viscosity cup, I think thats a good idea. I think though I will probably need to play around a lot with trial and error to find the right mixture. When I did my console I had it thinned to 1 part thinner to 1 part laquer, I seem to need it thinner so it will come out smoother. Had about 30 psi on the gun, maybe a little less pressure might help too. The garbage can idea sounds good, I tried to practice a bit on a piece of plywood but unless I sanded it and put as much work into it as a radio it really didnt show me if it was going to be smooth or not and I really didnt want to put that much work into sanding etc on a piece I wasnt going to keep. Oh well, like I said I guess I have a lot of trial and error to go through to find the right combo. Thanks for your help.
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You are welcome. And one more thing: when you make your pass and see that it lays down sort of pebbly, do not go over it to lay more (common mistake)-you may get a run. Instead, flash it for a few minutes and check-it might flow out nicely.
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Air temperature is going to make a difference too. In the good old days we used fast, medium and slow thinners specified for air temperature ranges.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
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Very true. They call them reducers. And retarders were used as well. Medium is widely available, so that is what I use.
(This post was last modified: 08-28-2014, 03:07 PM by fields 100.)
(08-24-2014, 07:22 AM)fields 100 Wrote: I know.. I have sanded entire car way back in the days.In my case,I think I nailed it at 30 psi and visc. at 24 sec. Try to find that cup, it eliminates all guesswork.Once you get the ## right, all you have to do is just fill and spray.
I used to lacquer finishes on vehicles as well. ( Iam dating myself) I find now doing cabinet work with Deft lacquer the first couple of coats I spray between 10 and 12 viscosity. Balance of the finish is done between 15 and 18 with 40 lbs pressure at the gun. The viscosity cup I use is a Zahn cup. This keeps polishing time to a minimum.
Gary
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