Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

38-60 Gonna be a lot of Trouble
#1

Hi,

I finally decided to tackle the 38-60 that I've had for a few years.  To say the least, it is in rough shape.  The speaker cone is pretty much gone, the dial scale is cracked and the top side veneer is completely missing.  Those are some of the obvious problems, but yesterday I found another one.  Probably not surprising to anyone, but the BC antenna transformer's primary winding is open.

I previously rewound a model 19 oscillator tickler coil.  It was relatively straightforward to remove that coil form and then replace the open coil.  In this case, I'm not sure how to remove the coil form from the chassis.  It is held in place, but I can't figure out how.  Does anyone know the correct way to remove this?  I don't want to damage the form.

If I can get the coil out, I'm sure I can count the turns, but does anyone know what gauge of wire to use for this?  I have a couple of sizes of magnet wire on hand (#32 and #36).  Would it be critical to use the correct wire gauge, or can I just use the closest size that I have?

Thanks
Jon
#2

So which ant coil? Both the BC and SW?
Long answer is take it apart and rewind. BC coil is going to be about 19' of 38ga wire.
Short answer is parallel #1a w/a 100pf mica cap.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Hi Terry,

It is just the primary side of the BC antenna xfrmer. The SW ant. xfrmer has no open coils. I guess I'll have to get some 38ga wire.

Really not sure how the coil form fastens to the underside of the chassis. If anyone has thoughts on how to remove the coil form, I'd appreciate their input. Otherwise, I'll keep looking...

Thanks Terry!

Jon
#4

Post a pic or two of the top and bottom of the transformer. Most have a couple of screws in the top that secure the coil and the can has a couple of spring fasteners that you squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers the pop the can off.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

Terry,

Here are 3 images.

In the first (38_60_Ant_Coil_1), the BC antenna coil is the lower right coil form of the four.  The front of the chassis is toward the top of the image.
   


The second image (38_60_Ant_Coil_2) is from the side, the BC coil is in the lower left.  The front of the chassis is toward the right side of the image.
   


The third image (38_60_top_side) shows the top of the chassis.  The BC antenna is to the left of the big cap can, beneath the tuning cap assembly.  I don't see any screws underneath the tuning cap.
   


From images 1 and 2, it looks like there is a whole assembly with a right-angled bend that is mounted beneath the chassis.  Maybe there is a screw coming from the top side of that?

Jon
#6

Not seeing what I was thinking of. I'd put a 100mmfd cap across the top of the pri over to top of the secondary and be done w/it.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#7

looks like it attached to that flooding chassis,,of the tuner,,I see screws to that tuning chassis is separate ,,in Pic 1,,,WOW
#8

I looked at it again, it seems like the coil forms attach to a "band switch sub-sub-chassis" which is attached to  the RF sub-chassis.  Modular design gone haywire Icon_crazy


I guess I'll start by pulling the RF deck and take it from there.  Maybe when I get that out I'll be able to see how these coil forms attach.  I would prefer to rewind the coil if possible.  I'll keep the idea of using a cap to shunt across the windings in my back pocket.  

Thanks for all the help Terry, much appreciated!

Jon
#9

Happy Trails,,My Friend-----CHEERS
#10

Hello again everyone. It has been a slow summer for me radio-wise. I am finally...almost done with this radio.

My question now is this. Does anyone know of a source for the chassis washers that support the RF sub-chassis on a 38-60? One of mine got damaged in removing the sub-chassis from the main chassis. I looked on Radio Daze and didn't see anything that looked quite right.

Thanks in advance.
Jon
#11

Tried Renovated Radios yet?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#12

I had not thought of them, but I will give them a look. Thanks for the tip.
#13

I finally finished this set a couple of days ago.   I needed to:

1) Get the speaker re-coned.
2) Install new veneer on the top.  First time for me.
3) Perform some rather significant cabinet repairs, as the cabinet itself and various parts of the veneer were literally coming unglued.
4) Replace the open antenna transformer. I decided to buy a replacement from AES.  Seems to work great.
5) Install a new photo finish on the front. First time for me.
6) Recap and re-carbon as usual.

This was probably the most difficult restore I've done so far.  At times it really challenged my patience.  I actually had to remove the RF sub-chassis twice because of a boneheaded move I made Icon_redface   The mounting bracket for the shortwave antenna coil had broken at some point in the past, so I fashioned a new way to mount it.  What I didn't realize until I had it all back together and tried aligning the SW band, was that my mounting bracket actually shorted out the SW antenna coil.  I never even looked to see if that might be happening!  In order to undo what I had done, I had to take it ALL...BACK...APART...ugggghhhh!!!

Thankfully, that is all in my rear view mirror now and overall, I am happy with the result.  It receives great on both bands.  Here are a couple of photos

   


   


A big thank you for everyone's input throughout.
Jon
#14

Nice!

Greg

"We are here to laugh at the odds and live our lives so well that Death will tremble to take us."
#15

Looks really nice.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
Welcome Eric, I agree with Bob and far as the two main electrolytic filter capacitors did you change them yourself or w...radiorich — 11:43 PM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Cleaned ann contacts, switches and sockets, works great now.martinj — 11:32 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>