Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Nathan's Philco 118MX
#16

Looking fantastic Icon_smile

Icon_smile

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#17

Progress update!

Front Panel Refinish

The grain is really fine on the 'myrtle burl' wood - I ended up just applying several coats of clear lacquer and sanding:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/3549...be6d_z.jpg]

Next: two light coats of Mohawk Ultra Classic 'Light Golden Oak' (M100-0415) which brought the appearance closer to other examples of the MX cabinets that I've seen:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/3613...86b6_z.jpg]

A few more steps:
  • Mask off the center strip - just a hair wider than the lighter strip of veneer.
  • Two coats of gloss black toner lacquer (Mohawk M104G224).
  • Philco decal
  • Several coats of gloss lacquer. Sanded in between twice - first with 400 grit, then with 600 grit before the final coat.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/3554...3f8d_z.jpg]

The final result is that the bonus hole is no more!

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/3554...35ed_z.jpg]

In a couple of weeks I'll rub out the finish - that should help give it a nice smooth and original looking finish.

Side panel veneer

As I mentioned earlier, I decided on 'pre-catalyzed resin' for applying the replacement veneer. From what I learned this is a good choice for thick veneer (1/16") - especially raw veneer (not backed by paper). The glue dries very rigid.

I ordered the glue from Peachtree Woodworking Supply.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/3633...3fe0_z.jpg]

The glue is a powder that you mix 2:1 powder to water by weight. I used a drill stirring attachment to mix it well:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/3620...6219_z.jpg]

I used a foam roller to apply the glue - it did a good job of applying it at a good thickness:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/3556...414b_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/3598...ee1d_z.jpg]

It ended up that there were still a few lumps in the cake batter! I removed those and smoothed things out again.

I then carefully placed the sheet of veneer on top and clamped it down:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/3637...234f_z.jpg]

The glue sticks fast pretty quickly - but I had a minute or so to shift things around.

The result:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/3556...cd61_z.jpg]

It came out nice and flat.  Icon_thumbup

I then trimmed the excess using a veneer trimming tool (helpful on nice square edges like this):

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/3637...15dc_z.jpg]

But now for the part that didn't go as planned.  Icon_thumbdown
The veneer I ordered ended up being about 1/16" short. I should have ordered it slightly larger of course - entirely my fault. I didn't want to reorder veneer as it's not cheap. I applied it as is, and plan to pad the slight gap with Timbermate or epoxy wood filler. It should be possible to obscure this small area using tone finish toner. Alternatively I could leave the gap as is - we'll see.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/3556...21ea_z.jpg]
#18

I think it looks perfect my friend...

Dont go crazy over it...

Icon_smile

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#19

Thanks Kirk!

Yeah - it probably won't even be noticeable once the finish is on.

That reminds me, this was stamped on the back:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/3598...a90f_z.jpg]

Maybe future generations will just blame Philco furniture plant 25.  Icon_lol
#20

Lookin' good Nathan!
Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup
#21

Thanks Bob!  Icon_wave

I won't post much on the electronic restoration - so I'll just add it here to this thread.

6.5K Resistor

Part #60 - the large wire-wound resistor - tested open.

After replacing it with the one from a parts chassis and putting in new electrolytics I tried bringing it up on a variac. No sound...

Speaker

Even though the speaker looked to be in really clean condition the output transformer tested open.

Fortunately I have a spare H-13 speaker. And it lives! Actually it works pretty well but I'll still go through and restuff all the caps.  Icon_thumbup

Tuning Condenser

After making sure it was mostly working I got to the root of the original problem - the one that resulted in an extra hole. I swapped in the tuning assembly from a parts chassis. It was also the perfect time to put in new tuner rubber mounting grommets.

Before:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4063/3488...3fd7_z.jpg]

Note the addition of a shaft parallel to the tuning condenser axis. The original mechanism uses a pulley system to give much finer control.

After:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/3558...7fba_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/3558...c469_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/3635...bcea_z.jpg]

(Tone control is out.)

Shadow Meter

The shadow meter tests good, although it doesn't move much. I verified that it moves correctly using a 9V battery. It will likely do much better after I restuff all of the paper caps and align it.
#22

Now back to the cabinet!

Sanding Sealer

Today I applied the grain filler. Actually, I first sprayed two light coats of Deft Sanding Sealer to the whole cabinet. I let that dry then lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/3624...59c2_z.jpg]

Grain Filler

The veneer on this cabinet is mahogany - more on the brown side of things. Here's a reference picture of the original finish:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4265/3533...5ab4_z.jpg]

So I ordered some brown mahogany grain filler from Contantine's. It looks like they don't carry their own brand of grain filler any longer (until now I've only been using that in the walnut color) - instead they have this WoodPerfect grain filler product:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/3636...63e9_z.jpg]

Unlike the previous product this one doesn't require mixing or thinning.  Icon_thumbup
The consistency is almost exactly like frosting - or chocolate frosting in the case of the brown walnut color.

I followed the instructions and it went on pretty easily.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4343/3627...89ce_z.jpg]

It filled the grain well - especially on the new veneer - with a single coat:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/3636...d949_z.jpg]

There's still a decent difference in color between the old and new veneer. I think that I should be able to even things up with an extra coat of toning lacquer on the sides. I've got some Mohawk 'Brown Mahogany' Ultra Classic on the way.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/3641...dbec_z.jpg]
#23

Great job Nathan, I may try that glue also . Keep up the good work.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
trying to identify this wire type
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM
trying to identify this wire type
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
Hi everyone,  Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Here's one source for your wire of many. Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM
trying to identify this wire type
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM
trying to identify this wire type
The red wire is rubber covered wire. The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Greetings Phorum members, Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached.  I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind. Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>