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City: Stephenville
State, Province, Country: Tx
Posts: 7,286
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Hi Brad and welcome,
So what do you have? Is you wire long enough to go from the antenna to the radio w/o any unions between? The shiney one looks like it may fit into a bayonet connector of some sort. There are some lamp holders that may work. Most of the antenna connectors I've seen for car radios look a bit like RCA long connectors.
https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...80&bih=661
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 01-09-2021, 12:20 AM by Radioroslyn.)
Posts: 693
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Joined: Apr 2018
City: S. Dartmouth
State, Province, Country: MA
FWIR the early Ford antenna connectors pre-date the later "Motorola" style (that look like RCA). What is important is maintaining the shield integrity from the chassis at the antenna to the chassis of the radio. Most cables for auto radio are of the low capacity type. The internal conductor is a fine, copper plated steel wire in a hollow insulated tubing."common" coax has far too much capacity for such purpose. Though it will work but very poorly as it will be impossible to match the antenna to the radio with the radio antenna adjustment.
May have to go to an auto specialty restoration parts company for a cable assembly. It appears there may be a missing connector nut... chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
Posts: 7,286
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Chas,
Would RG-58 fall into the category common coax?
Just curious.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 4
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2021
City: Stephenville
State, Province, Country: Tx
Thanks for the suggestion of the lamp holders... I’ll explore that option...
Posts: 140
Threads: 28
Joined: Dec 2016
City: portland, OR
brad,
i have an original female connector. will the antenna lead reach all the way to the radio? if so, does the radio have the little pill box on the outside where the antenna goes in? or does the antenna wire just go thru a hole into the case?
contrary to what chas said, Ford [in my experience, anyway] used a braided internal conductor, 18 or 20 gauge. i'm using a modern coax cable. works fine.
a BA9 bulb socket will work, but is slightly oversize for the male plug.
Posts: 4
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Joined: Jan 2021
City: Stephenville
State, Province, Country: Tx
I tried your suggestion—a BA9s socket — provides a good connection to the roof antenna connection. Thank you!
What type of radio noise suppressors/capacitors do you recommend for this 1936 Ford Philco radio? I have capacitors installed at the usual spots; however, I suspect one or more are not working — any easy to identify the bad capacitor(s) other than trial and error?
Again, thank you for the idea!
Posts: 140
Threads: 28
Joined: Dec 2016
City: portland, OR
i haven't needed external caps in my '36, like on the oil pressure sender, for example. i do use resistor plugs, however. i found that running a ground wire directly from the speaker to the radio chassis helped cut down on interference. if you're using an original power+speaker harness, make sure the braided shield is attached at both ends. and make sure the antenna wire shield is grounded at both ends. also that it's attached to the shields of the M and F plug terminals.
you can test the caps, of course, or just try replacing them [trial and error] with a modern 0.47 uf cap. there's nothing special that i know of about the original ones in metal cans. and the old ones likely do leak.
hope that helps.
bob
Posts: 4
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2021
City: Stephenville
State, Province, Country: Tx
Very helpful, Bob... Thank you!
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