Philco model 37-650 issues
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Hello everyone, I have a Philco 37-650B that has a very odd problem. When I got it from Ebay I had to first replace the shadowmeter that was missing (I had a spare from a junked 37-650 chassis) then rebuild the capacitor blocks/replace paper caps and replace any resistors out of tolerance. When I fired it up it would work but sensitivity was weak and there was no deflection of the shadowmeter (the meter is good). I was using a 30' piece of wire for the antenna for my testing. If I connected the wire to the grid cap of the 6K7 RF tube the signal was much stronger but then the signal dropped off a few seconds after connecting the antenna (I checked the RF and Ant. coils and all are good). It gets much weirder--when the antenna is connected to the proper terminals the stations are still weak but goes to full sensitivity if you turn the power on/off quickly but as soon as you move off the station the sensitivity drops again!!! The oscillator section is good as the stations are right on frequency. I connected the radio to my outdoor 110' antenna and it pulls in many stations and the radio is extremely loud at low volume with occasional dropouts in sensitivity---It sounds like possibly an AVC issue and I replaced all components on the AVC bus but it still doesn't work like it should. I did sub the 6A8 & 6K7 tubes in the RF deck just in case but no change. I collect and restore Philcos--I have a 37-610B, 37-9, (2) 38-643B, 37-84 & model 16B in my collection but this 37-650 is driving me crazy. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Ken
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hi
First suggestion: You have too many 38-643B sets. You should immediately send one of them to me.
This seems to be a fairly common problem with 1937 Philco sets. I suggest you not only check the AVC, but also suspect the AM band antenna coil. Hopefully you still have that 37-650 junker? You may need the AM antenna coil from it. This is the usual culprit when you get stronger reception using the antenna on the grid cap of the 6K7 RF amp instead of the antenna terminal on back.
Also, be sure the jumper on back is connected between terminals 2 and 3 on the four-screw terminal block (the screws labeled BLK and GND).
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Hi Ron, I forgot to mention that it affects all 3 bands but on the AM band it is more noticeable. I did check the primary/secondary windings of the antenna coils and they are ok (I checked them when I had the antenna coil assembly out to change the caps). I do have the donor chassis just in case. I didn't change the 51,000 ohm resistor in the antenna section--it reads about 50k. I do have the link across term. 2 & 3. The B- voltage in the AVC section varies to around -13 V when it is working to around -.6v when the signal gets weak. Thanks, Ken
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Hi Ron, what would cause the signal to drop when tuning off a station? Then I would have to turn the radio on/off quickly and it would play again till I tune it again. It is very strange as I haven't had a radio do that. The 38-643 radios ---I bought off of you a few years ago when you had them for sale on Ebay. I restored one and I'm using an ARBE III to power it and I haven't done anything to the other one yet. Ken
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Quote:what would cause the signal to drop when tuning off a station? Then I would have to turn the radio on/off quickly and it would play again till I tune it again. It is very strange as I haven't had a radio do that.
OK, that is very odd. That has me baffled for now.
Sounds like your AVC is working correctly. How are the B+ voltages? Do they vary when the signal drops off?
You might check for any loose/bad solder joints, especially if you removed the RF unit.
I have three 37-650 chassis out in the garage. Maybe I should restore one of them, get it playing right, and one of those 38-643 sets could come back home to me? Divorce can make a guy do some dumb things sometimes, like selling radios that he regrets selling later.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Hi Ron, I'll check the voltages and also check the wiring out on the RF unit. I wouldn't mind getting another 37-650 chassis that is in good shape and not rusty. I could trade you the working 38-643 for one (the dial is in very good shape). I want to get this radio working properly as I had one back in 1978 and it got me started in collecting Philco radios and this one has the instruction manual and original tag that described the features of the 37-650. Thanks, Ken
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Kenradio Wrote:I wouldn't mind getting another 37-650 chassis that is in good shape and not rusty. I could trade you the working 38-643 for one (the dial is in very good shape). I want to get this radio working properly as I had one back in 1978 and it got me started in collecting Philco radios and this one has the instruction manual and original tag that described the features of the 37-650.
Cool! Thank YOU!
I'll take a look at the three I have here and get back to you...
Posts: 893
Threads: 9
Joined: Mar 2008
City: Vieques, PR USA
State, Province, Country: PR
Kenradio Wrote:Hi Ron, what would cause the signal to drop when tuning off a station? Then I would have to turn the radio on/off quickly and it would play again till I tune it again.
Sounds like a partially open coil or bad solder joint. Or bad bandswitch switch contacts.
The *idea* here is that the connection is high resistance or partially open. Voltage from your meter may make it across or the 'surge' from off/on restores the connection. Dropping off when tuning away could be the result of the dropping AVC voltage. A bad detector tube will also do this if there is a high resistance connection at the grid cap. Sometimes resoldering the cap on the tube is a cure.
A good DMM or VTVM will often reveal these problems. A VOM will put enough voltage across the connection so as to mask it.
Good luck - its difficult to find these things sometimes.
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Hi exray, that is a good idea on the bandswitch---I do have a spare 37-650 bandswitch from the antenna section of the RF unit w/coils that is good. I will sub it out tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks, Ken
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Hi Ken
Turns out I have two, not three, 37-650 chassis. One of them will fit your needs; the other one needs a lot of work.
More details forthcoming via email. Thanks!
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 98
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2011
City: Tiffin, Ohio
Hi, I swapped out the antenna section of the RF unit a few days ago and it appeared to fix the fading issue but it came back. I checked the service tips on the Philco Repair Bench website and noticed that one of the tips was for fading issue with the 37-650 and said to check part #8 a 40 Pf capacitor that developes an intermittent short. I noticed on my radio the AVC voltage fluctuates when the signal is going in and out so this may be something for me to check out. I don't look forward to removing the RF section as the cap is underneath the switch wafers.
Posts: 461
Threads: 31
Joined: Sep 2009
City: Lapeer
State, Province, Country: MI
Ken, I replaced this cap when I restored my 37-650. If you got the schematic and service notes from Chuck Schwark, it gives the instructions on how to get the RF section out. It was easier than it looked. I thought for sure that I would make a mess of it, but Philco knew what they were doing when they published the instructions. Just label where the wires come out of there and where they go on the chassis. This will also give you a chance to replace the rest of the caps in the RF. Believe me, the performance enhancement is worth it!
Joe
Matthew 16:26 "For what does it profit a man if he gain the whole world, yet lose his own soul?"
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
trying to identify this wire type
|
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM |
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
|
Hi everyone,
Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Here's one source for your wire of many.
Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary
P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
The red wire is rubber covered wire.
The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Greetings Phorum members,
Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached. I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM |
Philco 60 Squealing
|
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind.
Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently 5125 online users. [Complete List] » 2 Member(s) | 5123 Guest(s)
|
|
|
|