Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Power cord
#1

Where can I find the cord for a vintage hi fi? It is listed as a model p-1714-124.  I have tried several places and am really concerned I may never find one.

Here is a photo of the back of it.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#2

You need something like IEC320 plug.

Kinda like this

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18AWG-P...24708&th=1
\
Do not buy immediatel;y, do a bit of a research, but I used one like this (with a bit of a cut-off) for my old Grundig.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

Hi,

Your unit originally used an AC cord with an end which was held onto the back of the unit with a clip, and it was designed to come off (unplugged) from that connector in your photo when the back was removed. It was a safety feature which manufacturers adopted in the 1950s.

It appears, from the way the opening is cut up, that someone removed the cord by cutting it away from the back rather than simply removing the clip and pulling the end of the cord out of the back.

What was once known as "cheater" cords were once sold so that a serviceman could plug the cheater cord into the radio, TV or stereo being serviced for testing purposes. Cheater cords are now nearly impossible to find. And original cords which clipped onto the back of the unit have been out of production for decades now.

Your best bet now would be a cord like the one Morzh linked to in his post above. As he said, you will want to make sure the new cord has the same hole size and the same spacing between holes to fit the connector on your stereo.

Your stereo was made in 1966, by the way (P = 1966 model year).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#4

Actually, "cheater cords" are still available. A search on eBay produces many results. You will need to know the spacing between the pins and the pin diameter, to figure out which kind to order. Good luck.
#5

Thank you so much for your responses!

I didn't know too much about the hi fi as it was given to us by family. It is in great shape other than missing cord and it would really be exciting to get it going again.

Any other helpful hints/information would be greatly appreciated!
#6

That style of safety interlock cord isn't too hard to find, they were in common use right into the 1980s, or later, I've salvaged them from assorted junk electronic items over the years. The hard ones to find are the types that have ears that are riveted onto a bracket on the back panel. One thing to watch for is that import items sometimes used different spacing between the pins, or different pin sizes from a North American item.
#7

Hello Elizabeth ,
that cord used to be as common as dirt and key to the cord is finding one with the right pin spacing .
Good luck with your stereo .

Sincerely Richard
#8

Before you actually plug it in, or turn it on, you should have someone who is knowledgeable and experienced take a look at the electronics in it, and at least replace the main filter capacitors in the power supply section. The originals may still be good, but they take the most stress of all, and if they fail, they can cause damage to other parts. They can then also check out all the rest of the electronics to make sure the unit functions as it should. Based on the age, they may wish to also replace ALL the paper capacitors in the circuitry. This is also something we do very commonly in order to prevent problems from developing as these aged parts often fail once they begin to see voltages applied to them again. Usually the resistors and mica or ceramic capacitors hold up better and don't need to be replaced. I hope this helps and saves you problems getting this unit back up and running. Good luck ! And let us know how things turn out.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Tim, nice write up and thanks for sharing !! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 02:47 AM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Well, this was a real "Hum-Dinger" :lol: ! This will be kinda long, but hopefully it will help others having t...TV MAN — 01:55 AM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>