[Jayce]

I pulled the dial bulb from my RCA RGC42S and it is being a real pain to find any reference to. I don't even know what voltage it is. It is marked: G-E 130 and I would presume it is the factory original and made by General Electric. Searches on the web bring up everything but this bulb so far, so am wondering if GE changed its number along the line? Would like some help so I can get a replacement or even find a swap that will work. It's the bayonet type with a globe top and the base is the same as a 47.

[Carl Travis]

This #130 seems to have the same specs as a #47 except for globe shape:
https://www.bulbtown.com/130_MINIATURE_B...iko130.htm

[Jayce]

Thanks for the link. Only differences are the globe shape and a longer life. I'll try a 47 in the radio and see how it does since I have those on hand already. Looks like voltage and other specs are the same according to that site.
Update: Stuck in a 47 and looks pretty good even though it doesn't fit tight against the light diffuser like 130. Just saved me a trip after sinking nearly $600 into my car to have the fuel pump and filter replaced. Couldn't DIY that one due to how Mercury put the tank in!

[Carl Travis]

Know what you mean about the fuel pump.  My brother had changed the fuel pump in his Grand Marquis, and it's no fun dropping the gas tank.
Our Buick Lacrosse that we had at that time had an access panel in the trunk, would have been a lot easier.

[MrFixr55]

Have done a few gas tanks over the years. I figure that one of these days, I will have to drop the tank on my 91 Aerostar (190K NYC and around town miles). Haven't seen an access hole for a fuel pump or sender since older Lincolns. (I have a sick addiction to Ford cars but they have served me well).

Ol' Henry came u with a concept "Design to manufacture". In the past 40 or so years, Design to manufacture and design to service seem to have diverged. They are all guilty of it, but some of the worst included Volvo, Mercedes Benz, etc., and some of the most difficult parts to replace were the very parts likely to fail (wiper motor, heater core, timing chains, etc. Having to pull an engine to replace a timing chain and guides (Ford 4.0 DOHC in Explorer) is a bit much.

Trick to dropping a gas tank is to ensure that it is empty, and soak the heck out of the strap screws / bolts, etc, especially in the Rust Belt! Have a jack (or 2, as the tank usually has to be partially lowered to disconnect all the hoses / fuel filler / wiring, etc.

[Jayce]

Replacing the pump and sender unit isn't bad on the older Crown Vics and even the Mercurys. You can actually do them with the tank in place. What is bad with mine is that it has the Precisiontrack option which puts an extra cross member, arms, and torsion bar in the way. Even the fill neck for the tank is a pain to get out!

[jcassity]

i am also a fox body guy,,
inside the trunk there is a somewhat large "ish" stamp in the floor of the trunk which looks like a "house" shape,, somewhat on the passengers side.

you cut out that shape,, and right there is your fuel pump.
modify the piece you took out to become a "LID" on hinges ,, add sealer and a couple scew downs,, and your now set to easily get to your pump.
clearances on the cougars, tbirds merc's etc from the tunk floor to the fuel pump is about 1'' total.

cutting without the tank dropped means you carefully cut in the areas of 12 oclock to 3 oclock cause thats where the fuel lines and electrical come in .