Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 645K chassis removal - need help
#1

Three of us at our museum attempted to remove the chassis for a 1936 645K art deco console, only to be stymied and mystified.

There are two rear under-chassis hold down screws, which we removed.  After pulling all the knobs, we attempted to pull the chassis
to the rear of the cabinet.  It wouldn't budge.

After carefully eyeballing the cabinet from the front, and also from the inside, none of us could see any screws that appeared to be holding the chassis in place.  Yet, further tugging with more force had no effect.

I guess it is possible that the chassis is just seized to the wood and we need to coax it harder.  But, if someone has a better suggestion based on experience, we'd sure appreciate your guidance.

Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.

ASHEVILLE RADIO MUSEUM
www.avlradiomuseum.org


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#2

Other than the screws from the bottom (typically 4) and the knobs there is nothing to hold it.
It could be seized. Try to gently rock it, see if you hear that crunching noise of crumbling gaskets. THose are made of some sort of rubber that in time hardens and glues to what it was touching. You probably just need to try to run a large flat scredriwer between the rear of the chassis and the shelf it is mount on, lever it up, and see if the chassis will start moving with that crunchy crackling noise.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

It looks like this chassis is similar to my 650X. There's the 2 Bolts at the back and the knobs to remove. There's two locator studs on each side of the chassis front. The bottom ones are bare and the top ones each have a large rubber shock grommets. In addition, the 2 chassis bolts went through large rubber grommets that can drop out the bottom of the cabinet cross member support. Try shifting the rear of the chassis back and forth.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM
trying to identify this wire type
The red wire is rubber covered wire. The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Greetings Phorum members, Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached.  I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind. Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I have recapped and replaced out of tolerance resistors and so on. Radio plays nicely on fairly strong stations. The pro...dconant — 10:55 AM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
Welcome Eric, I agree with Bob and far as the two main electrolytic filter capacitors did you change them yourself or w...radiorich — 11:43 PM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>