[patrician56]

Regarding your question about the original power cord. Here is a photo of my 41-255 power cord. It was a brown plastic (rubber) cord molded with a gromet (strain relief) going into the chassis and a plug molded onto the other end.  I would think that the '41 and '42 models would be similar.

[bridkarl]

Thanks. In the 42-345 it seems like it was the same.
There was just a piece of rubber hose in there as an insulator when I got this so I ended up just opening up the hole and putting in a new 1/4 inch rubber grommet. 

Right now I’m just getting no voltage so I’m trying to diagnose that problem.

[bridkarl]

There was an earlier post by Ron about replacing power switches on radios with push buttons  - a problem I’m dealing with right now.
Just as an update to that - I think I found the identical part he describes still being sold at Lowes - I found it at the end of the electrical fittings aisle on the display with switches. I expect it’s in the same place at allLoees. 
The number is 427662 for $4.68. 

I still need to disassemble this to see if it’s the same but it seems identical. 

In the meantime I carefully bent two tabs underneath the switch cover. There’s a third tab but working with two is enough to get you access to the switch without more extensive removal of the entire push button assembly.

 That allowed me to spray the interior of the switch with De-Oxit Gold - wiping out the excess with a small pipe cleaner. After that I simply exercised the switch 20 or 30 times - which seems to latch correctly.
As I saw no evidence of physical damage or burning I’m hoping this is enough. Boring issue I realize but I thought an explanation might help before someone just cuts a switch off. Cleaning first seems a good idea and I haven’t seen a description of this anywhere.

This did nothing. Radio is still dead. I’ll wait for my replacement unit to arrive so I can check my wiring/repairs against an original unit and the schematic. This is the second or third time this has been recapped so there may have been errors introduced by previous owners I’ve missed. 

The next step after that is putting a jumper bypassing the switch and establish that the switch is truly dead. 
Which leads to a full replacement of the push button switch. Arghh.

[bridkarl]

I finally broke down and installed a switch to bypass the factory switch. That was indeed a bad switch with infinite resistance.

With the jumpered in switch ON the radio pulls .83 amps at 112 volts - but the radio is still totally dead. No filament voltages - absolutely nothing. Swapped out the rectifier tubes - nothing.

So the checking will continue. Back to Marcus and Levy to diagnose this unit.  If this was an AA5 radio I’d think a bad tube is killing it but this isn’t. My suspicion looking more closely is some short in the transformer wiring.  Under my loupe I’m seeing some really crummy wiring which I previously missed.

That said, I tested my parts unit - it appears to be working and has a working power switch. It’s seemingly in better shape than this other one.

I’ll recap this one - I’ll have one nice working unit in a nice case for me and eventually an average unit I can put on eBay or use for spares. 
SUCCESS!!!!

Got that recap done - so much easier the second time. Radio works great. 
AM broadcast and shortwave seems fine. I’ll check again this evening.
Just need to restring the dial cord and do some physical cleanup. And figure out how it gets into the case. It seems to be catching about 1/2 inch from the front on something.  I’ll let this run for ten hours or so on the bench while I do something else