[bridkarl]

Picked up a 41-226 sled. This uses a dual 20mfd cap part number 30-2491

After looking through the catalogs I see no
listings for this part. The schematic lists the voltages as 90 and 120 across the caps

I assume that a 150v cap is sufficient as a replacement???
Looking forward to rubber wiring (not), but it seems basically sound. I’ll be needing to sand out this scratch, looks ok otherwise

[Vlad95]

After switching on, the voltage can reach 120 V * 1.414 = 170 V.
Later, after all the tubes have heated up, the voltage will reach the nominal value.
The minimum voltage for these capacitors is 200 V. Better is 250–300 V.

[MrFixr55]

Electrolytic capacitors were rated in "working volts" (WV) and could take a certain amount of overvoltage.  In theory, the voltage could be more than 150, but in practice, there is a rather high voltage drop across a 35W4, 35Z5 or similar tube.  These tubes took a longer time than a 5Y3 or similar tube to heat up to full output.  I would stick with 150WV or 160WV.  I wouldn't go above 200WV

When I was young, the practice was to not use an electrolytic capacitor with a much higher working voltage value because the cap would not "form" or have the same capacity at a lower voltage than rated for.  This was a property of electrolytic capacitors, not of the paper-foil capacitors which should be replaced with caps having the highest practical voltage value.

[bridkarl]

Ok. Thanks. I went with the 160WV as suggested. They’re cheaper and the values matched exactly. Not that 22mf vs 20 mf means much.

[RodB]

Those old 20s had a tolerance of 20 percent, as most of the components in these old sets.