[OldRestorer]

I am doing my 90 and those 2 darn big multi blocks are confusing me... I actually followed the entire schematic but cant figure these out.... Any help is appreciated...

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013881.pdf

[Ron Ramirez]

Assuming your chassis is the middle version with a single 47 output tube, this page explains it all:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/90error.htm

[OldRestorer]

You are always on point Ron.
 It is the single 47 tube version.
Lets see if I can do it now..

Me

[StephenB]

I was just recapping a single 47 philco 90 a week ago. The #24 (#1 in your pic) block capacitor (03325) - 3 black wires - all .25 mfd caps; grounded to the chassis. The #30 (#2 in your pic) block capacitor (03327) - black wire is 1 mfd, white wire is .25 mfd, and the green wire is .1 mfd; all three grounded to the chassis. Good luck.

[OldRestorer]

Wonderful!
Now come here and do mine while it is fresh in your mind

Me

[OldRestorer]

I finally did it!

I recapped the 90's metal multi cap blocks.
The radio still gets no reception on its own unless I touch the Audio output tube so like you guys said, The antenna coil is probably the issue.

Me

[Phlogiston]

I finally did it!

I recapped the 90's metal multi cap blocks.
The radio still gets no reception on its own unless I touch the Audio output tube so like you guys said, The antenna coil is probably the issue.

Me

Kirk, "audio output tube"? If the coil is bad you should get reception if you touch the cap of the first RF amp/stage before the IF.

[OldRestorer]

Yeah, thats what I meant. I don't know the terminology to use.

Me

[OldRestorer]

Ok, 
  On my 90 there is a tar block on the pot. I think it is the tone control #26 on the schematic?
Anyway, Is that a multi-cap? Lastly, can someone explain the caps and how they connect.

[Ron Ramirez]

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/90b.jpg

Part (31) on the schematic linked above. It contains two .01 uF caps and one .015 uF cap.

The tone switch has four positions:

1 "Brilliant" - None of the caps are in the circuit.
2 "Bright" - The .015 uF cap is in the circuit.
3 "Mellow" - The .015 cap is now in parallel with one .01 uF cap, giving a total of .025 uF (remember, capacitor values add in parallel).
4 "Deep" - All three caps are now in parallel, giving a total of .035 uF from 47 plate to ground.

How to connect?

Looking at the back of your tone control switch, there should be three terminals. You will be doing this work from right to left so the switch works correctly when you put it all together.

Get a .015 uF 630V film cap, and two .01 uF 630V film caps.

Twist the three leads of only one end of each of the caps together. You will solder a wire to this junction which will go to the plate of the 47 tube. After soldering, insulate the joint with heat shrink tubing as it carries high voltage from the 47 plate.

Leave the other three leads of the other ends of each cap alone for now.

Now, you will need to lengthen at least two, and possibly all three, of these loose leads. Do so by splicing bare solid wire (20 gauge will work, 22 is better) to each one of your three loose leads. Cover each with black heat shrink tubing after soldering so they retain original appearance and will not short to anything.

Okay -

Now you want to connect those leads to the terminals on the tone control switch.

Working from right to left as you look at the back of the switch, attach the loose lead of the .015 uF cap to the first terminal on the switch. Solder it.

Now take the loose lead of one of the .01 uF caps and solder it to the second terminal on the switch.

Finally, solder your last loose lead (the other .01 uF cap) to the third terminal (first one on the left).

Carefully tuck the three caps into the well in the tone control switch (you did remove the original tar baby, right?) making sure no wires are touching the assembly if it is metal. Early tone controls are Bakelite and you don't have this worry. Anyway...put the three caps in, fill the space with hot glue, set aside to let it cool, and you're finished. Reinstall the switch in the radio and connect the wire to the plate of the 47 tube.

And that's all there is to it.

So remember...if the women don't find you handsome...they should at least find you handy.

[OldRestorer]

That was a rich and informative reply Ronald J. Worthington III.

Thank you for the assistance. I shall follow these directions and not get electrocuted... Maybe

Handy it is..... 

Me

[morzh]

Kirk

Find my 90 restore topic. I showed that very thing in detail there.


Could not find my 90 topic but it is  this: 111 has the same TCTL as the 90.
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...=Philco+90

PS. Better yet...now I am on my computer and I have the pics:


   
   
   

[OldRestorer]

Thanks Mike,
That definitely helps to visually see it.

I shall try my best...

Me