Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

MERSHON condenser rebuild
#16

(08-02-2016, 01:38 PM)Phlogiston Wrote:  Use a socket to support the plastic threaded base - a deep 3/8" drive 5/8' is about right. This allows the threaded rod to go through the socket driver hole. Use a hammer to drive the rod out of the base. Use some WD-40. I have taken a lot of these out of the base this way.

I tried a socket and it looks like a good support. I also soaked the threaded rod in WD-40 all night. I still was unable to budge it this morning (using a hammer on the inside top of the post). There isn't enough of the rod, on the inside of the capacitor to be able to drill a small hole and use a bolt. On the inside of the base it looks like there is a round washer like device attached to the threaded terminal. By the way, I have a second copper Mershon and it does not have a nut embedded in the bottom of the base. Both capacitors have the very same part number stamped on the top. I am going to try to open that one and see if there is a difference between the two. Thanks guys.
#17

You are pushing the rod from what was the outside towards what was the inside - tap on the threaded end?

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#18

Icon_biggrin Thank you all for the suggestions. I was able to thread the stud out, from the inside, after I soaked both ends of the stud, for three days. Everyday I would spray a little WD-40 on both ends of the stud. Now that it is out I see the nut is molded into the base for a reason. That is what holds the stud in place. I have threaded a new bolt down in the studs place. For the ground I am going to drill a small hole in the base, near the side and use a piece of #14 copper electric wire and wrap it once around the capacitor insulated mounting post. The rest of the job is easy, just attach the positive end of the replacement capacitor to the bolt and solder the ground end to the copper wire then epoxy the base back onto the can. Now with this experience the next one will be easier. I got a bit to impatient. I had expected the stud to screw right out of the base. These are the things that make me miss my dad and his years, from the late 20's to the 60's in repairing electronic equipment. It is a site such as this one which really helps out. Again, thanks guys.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 60 Squealing
I seem to remember eliminating a squeal by changing the IF frequency by a few KHz. Not that you should put too much tru...fenbach — 08:48 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
These speakers pop up on eBay regularly, even if at bloated prices. Honestly, have not seen many parts on swapmeets.morzh — 08:38 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
The put-put is not like the speaker problem.morzh — 08:29 PM
Mission Bell Model 19A Car Radio
Hello everyone,  As mentioned in my last post I was going to see if the vibrator / rectifier section could be persuaded...Antipodal — 08:21 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Wondering if I did it backwards. If a coil was wound backwards, the oscillator would not work at all. Old school...Chas — 07:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>