Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Atwater Kent paper cap markings
#1

hey guys, ran aground on something. Going through an AK model 708 and doing parts vs schematic checks and finding some wax/paper caps that have 3 digit markings on them.
One has 101 on it and another has 409 on it.
I would think that that's .0001uF and 0.0004uF respectfully.
Doesn't match the schematic values at all. ( I realize that there have probably been several production changes so there could be differences).
I plan on replacing these caps using the printed values on them and probably going to restuff the old ones if I can. A lot of work but I want this thing to be authentic as possible.
Done some internet research on this but not finding what I think is the right information.
Also, Haven't worked on any thing this old as this radio so learning about the old way of doing things.
Thanks.
#2

I restored 808A which is more or less the same as 708, only console, many years ago. Maybe 8 or 9.
I do not remember if I tried to read values, but I think I went by the drawing and the sch so I did not question values.
I would advise going with the sch values if you are sure the cap in question is accurately located on the sch.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

The 3 digit code on the A-K caps is an in house code. That code does not follow the current capacitor coding schemes nor is representative of the caps value.

Look at the circuit location and the schematic to determine the correct value.

Chas

Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
#4

Thought the values remain constant. So once you figure out that a "123" is .01 @ 200V then so is the next one.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#5

My experience on A-K house marked caps is that the same "code" is consistent with that radio model. Chances are that same code is used in similar models. too. However, I have found that is not true of A-K resistor color codes, for example, a white (all white dog bone resistor) FWIR, can appear in two places in the same radio at different values.

That said, when restoring, care has to be taken not to be deceived in both capacitor codes as well as resistor color coding schemes on sets built before RMA became standard practice.

I cannot vouch to where I read this, long before the WEB that Philco used RMA codes but values chosen of such the colors would stand out in the factory lighting scheme.

Chas

Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
#6

Some months ago I was fortunate enough to come across an original Atwater Kent ring binder of their service information from their beginning through 1933. I have looked through it to see if I could find any direct information to answer your questions. What I found is that in this early period they went by their own part number and color code system, and that it varied between models over the period. I STRONGLY suggest you follow the values on the schematic for the parts. The numbers on the condensers are NOT related to their value. The same goes for the colors on the resistors. Here is the schematic for the model 808A, which, from what I can find, is the same as your 708. I hope it can be of some use to you.
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/fec5c52c4f2c...442e2b.jpg]
#7

A little further research. The 708 is the table radio, the 808 is the floor model. The circuitry and chassis are the same, not sure if the speaker diameter is the same.




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
Need to purchase some accessories for restoration of my Old Philco Radio
Here is a list of resources found in our online library that you might find useful. Mike's Gobs of Knobs email addres...klondike98 — 01:46 PM
First Radio restoration
Hi Tubeman, Welcome to the Philco Phorum.  Phamily Phriendly Pfun with Phine Pholks Phull of Philco Phacts. (See a p...MrFixr55 — 12:33 PM
First Radio restoration
You could post in the WANTED ADs section here on the Phorum and see if anyone has an RF generator that they want to sell...klondike98 — 11:55 AM
Zenith H725
Good ideas, thank you Arrange and Rich. I have the adhesive aluminum foil already and can try that immediately. More ...EdHolland — 10:18 AM
Graphics for majestic 1050 dial glass.
Murf; I found this thread on the ARF, the first photo has a pretty good view of the dial glass. Regards ArranArran — 01:12 AM
Zenith H725
hello Ed, how about that speacial tape used for ducting it's like foil or how about thin piece of aluminum roof flash...radiorich — 12:19 AM
Zenith H725
Ed; One material that I have seen, but never tried for this was material for making exhaust gaskets, it's similar to ...Arran — 11:42 PM
Zenith H725
I just remembered, I have some hi temp silicone rubber material which could do the trick. Or a piece of FR4 laminate. Th...EdHolland — 08:39 PM
Zenith H725
The PSU filter cap arrived today (thank you USPS!) so I will work on that later. Meanwhile, I have the dial, speaker...EdHolland — 06:42 PM
Philco 610B oscillator wiring
Thanks Terry. After checking my notes I think I recorded about -10v at the 6A7 G4/control grid. The screen grid (G3 &...Tubester — 05:59 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2353 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 2352 Guest(s)
Avatar

>