BASIC TEST EQUIPMENT. What do I need?
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Alan Douglas Wrote:The 666 works all right, if it was competently built and cared for. I wouldn't want to ship one very far, with its heavy steel case. It will do 90% of what a Hickok will, for the average user.
Thanks, Alan. How does it compare to a Jackson 648 (-1, -A, -R, -S)? I'm watching both on eBag right now and there are a pair of 666's going for about the same price, but one has manuals and the 610A adaptor (which appears to largely be a TV adpter, but still, you never know ![Icon_wink Icon_wink](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif) ).
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Ron
One terminal appears to be the wiper as it has a pictogram of an arrow inside a radial coil pictogram. There are (5) terminals, and I can see the numbers for enough of them to determine which is #1, 2, etc. one being in the middle of two pair. Two terminals go to both ends of the coil on one side, and the other two go to both ends of the coil on the other side. The remaining terminal is pretty obviously the wiper. There are the remnants of black and white wires, apparently attached to spade or other types of lugs still attached to the temninals, which all have screw type binding posts attached to bolts. Two of the slotted binders on the terminals won't turn, even with a hefty screwdriver, but there's enough wire left to attach plug, receptical, etc, without loosening the terminals on those two. It's old, dusty on the case but the windings, from what I can see of them thru the ventilation slots, if that's what they are, look ok. There's paint missing from the case, of course, being as old as it evidently is, but it doesn't appear as tho it's ever been dropped or dented. Sure can't find anything even like a 5 Amp variac on ebay for $25. Every one I've seen gets bid up higher than I can really afford, that's why this one seemed like such a bargain as it's a big brute. And the word "stressed" you used is a very good way to describe something. This one looks old and retired, but not "stressed".
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>>How does it compare to a Jackson 648 (-1, -A, -R, -S)
I've never owned a 648 but the circuitry should be equivalent to the Eico 666 (both are "dynamic emission" models).
Sorry for the tardy reply; this new phpBB doesn't display properly on my computer. All the windows overlap and I have to turn off the formatting to see anything. It's easy to miss posts.
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Alan--thanks. I think I will aim for a Jackson 648 series because I've seen that Eico tends to wander on their tube chart settings. Mind you, if the price is good, the Eico will work fine. I also saw a Supreme I-177-B listed for a GOOD price that claims to be a mil-spec dynamic conductance tester, which intrigues me. And the price is good enough that I can actually afford to order the documentation from another source for $11 or so.
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My first tube tester was an I-177, and I still have it, along with a second-hand 6000A I bought in 1966 to handle the "modern" (post-1950) tubes that the I-177 wouldn't do. Now I tend to use a TV-7B for routine stuff. These all use the same circuit, mil-spec or not.
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Well, I managed to get an Eico 666 with the adaptor and all the manuals. Here's hoping it survives shipping... the seller guaranteed it to work, at any rate.
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I'm looking for some advice on a variac. I've been scanning eBay for the last 30 minutes looking at what is available, but I haven't a clue what the difference is between a "good" and a "bad" unit. There seem to be a few inexpensive (cheap?) units from Technipower, Staco, and General Radio.
1. Can anyone give me a sense of what I should be looking for or staying away from?
2. I'm drawn to the units that have both voltage and ampere meters, but how important is an amp meter?
I've got two radios that I'd like to restore and then I'll likely recycle whatever I buy back onto eBay so I'd like something usable without spending too much.
A couple samples of what I've been looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bench-Variac-Variabl...1013wt_881
http://cgi.ebay.com/General-Radio-GR-W20...1632wt_881
Any help would be appreciated!
Scott
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scottwkurth Wrote:2. I'm drawn to the units that have both voltage and ampere meters, but how important is an amp meter?
An ammeter is a necessary part of the setup. Voltmeter isn't. The goal using a Variac is to be able to bring the voltage up slowly while WATCHING for something to go wrong. Without an ammeter your first and only indication will be smoke or sparks - exactly what you would have hoped to avoid in the first place. You can always use an ammeter externally, however its convenient to have one as part of the package.
As for size rating, you have to consider what you'll be using it for. If you want to work on old TVs, for instance, you have to consider the wattage or current rating which may be several times higher than what is needed for ordinary table radios.
-Bill
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