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All recapped and checked. Had to order a new knob. Seems to work ok.
The bulb seems to be an issue. It’s bright for a moment and then gets truly dim. Seems to be drawing too much B+. I haven’t replaced any tubes so that may be the issue.
I also couldn’t figure out if the original power cord went under OR through the antenna. I put it under using a polarized cord with the hot side to the switch. I’m debating if it needs a fuse, but since I use it through a fused isolation transformer I think not.
(This post was last modified:
7 hours ago by
bridkarl.)
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Fantastic progress so far! You bring up an interesting question regarding fusing. I don’t hear much about people fusing transformer less AC/DC sets. Maybe I just haven’t happened to catch those particular conversations, I don’t know. But I’ve long wondered.
Does the bulb remain bright if you pull the 35Z3 tube? You won’t get any plate voltage if you remove this tube, but the rectifier is really the only thing I can imagine would suddenly dim the bulb, once it heats up and starts rectification.
Joseph
Philco 46-480
Philco 49-906
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the bulb is acting as a current limiter. Sort of a cheap solution to save the rectifer and the power supply filter. I’m thinking there’s some better solution.
I’ve used an inline fuse in the hot side of the switch before. Not sure it’s worth it given there’s a fuse on my isolation transformer, but if they have one at Ace Hardware next time I’m there…
Not sure what else this needs aside from an alignment. I haven’t swapped out tubes yet
(This post was last modified:
4 hours ago by
bridkarl.)
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I have heard of some people adding current limiting resistors ahead of the heater string in AC/DC sets but I never bothered, I don't use most of them enough to blow out tubes anyhow. The last tube I had fail was after the radio had been on for an hour, and it wasn't even at one end of the heater chain, nor did it go open until after I tried checking it in a tube tester. There were a lot of dodgy components used in post war sets, and this one was from 1947-48, including tubes sometimes, I think the PT6 was a 1940 model was it not? I like the design of the cabinet by the way, clean yet elegant.
Regards
Arran
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It’s a 1941 model. I won’t be using it enough to justify figuring out.
All that’s left is getting the knob I have on order and figuring out what size screws I need to hold the chassis in the case.
I suppose a thermistor in series with the bulb might work but what value??
(This post was last modified:
4 hours ago by
bridkarl.)