[Ram]

Hello all, new to forum. Hope this is in right spot.
Have the model 60-505 code 121. Case is fair, will post about that later. Have removed chassis and speaker from case. Found lots of dust, but overall very clean only a few developing rust spots on chassis smaller then a dime. grid connector wires need either replacing or heat shrink over to cover some bare wire poking through at a couple spots.

Pwr cord was cut a couple feet from chassis and a newer rubber type installed which was totally cracked up beyond belief. Took that off at the original cotton cord and just put the power plug back onto the cotton cord. Not very long but will work for now. Brought up power with variac. All tubes and dial lite up. Had no real volume from audio, but a faint hum from the speaker. Powered down, unplugged everything, inspected everything. Made an antenna wire 5 ft long attached to terminal. Turned chassis on side, powered back up. Noticed the hum in speaker was somewhat louder. Tapped the center terminal of volume resistor with screwdriver blade and heard static in the speaker from doing so, also while moving volume control up and down could vary static volume from tapping center volume contact.

Sort of figure the no playing issue is now either one or both the DET/OSC 6A7, or the I.F. 78 tubes?

Also have a couple questions:
- The IF tube 78, I was not able to take out of its socket. Can not get up and under it since the RF can over tube has a collar around base of tube base to chassis and it keeps me from prying the tube up and out of socket. Don't want to go crazy pulling glass envelope since it is loose in bakelite base as it is! Have gone underneath, and tried to push up from tube pins with a flat ended drift to work tube out of socket. Still not moving.
Any one with any ideas may end having to break glass and pull out with pliers? Don't really know if tube is still good, giving symptoms above.
- Had to replace screw from underside of chassis into rubber mount for tuning capacitor. Cannibalized from a Model 38 code 123. Didn't check the length but it didn't seem like it would be to long to cause the radio to short out the tuning capacitor, but could it have?
- Plastic tuning dial. Some one had wiped off the dial and removed some of the printed numbers onto the orange plastic. I would like to repair with a decal. Have to either take off the dial from the capacitor, or remove 4 rivets so I can put the dial onto the flat bed scanner and copy what I have to make a new dial scale for printing. Dial is part scale is Part Number: 27-5102. Has anyone made any decals for this part number? I'm being told there are several different part numbers for the 60, and not all are viewable though the escutcheon? Mine is maybe June of 1935, since it has the larger escutcheon out of bake lite. And the tube RF shields (cans) are not round they are square. Various places I have checked and that have answered me, only have one dial available and its not this part number.
- Cardboard, behind speaker. Does anyone make pre-cut replacements?
- Feet for case, those 4 little things that used to keep your nice living room furniture from getting all scratched up... they are all worn out. I've not seen any replacements in the parts sites that I've checked so far. Granted more might be out there, anyone with a link?

Thanks to all,

Gary

[Ron Ramirez]

Welcome!

Coils often go bad in Model 60 sets, and yours should be checked for continuity. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, it is your friend here.

At a very minimum, those electrolytic capacitors should be replaced before you apply power again.

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/plugin.htm

Try your drift on the 78 tube pins again, gently tapping on the other end of the drift with a small hammer. It should eventually come loose. If you ruin the tube trying to get it out, replacement 78 tubes are easy to find. Just make sure you don't hit the pins so hard that you force the tube up quickly, forcing the drift into the tube pin contact and damaging the tube socket!

Replacement dial scales are available for Model 60. Contact Mark Oppat for these:
http://www.oldradioparts.net/

Grille cloth backing board - Retro-Tronics makes these for some Philco models, but I do not know right now if they make any for the Model 60. Google "Retro-Tronics" to find them.

Some guys use self-adhesive round felt pads to replace the old feet. They don't look original, but they do a very good job of protecting your furniture from any scratches that might be caused by the radio. The pads can be found in any hardware store.

[Ram]

Have a meter, will test the resistance of the coils, didn't think of coils.
Cap's don't have any outward bad indications, such as swelling, leaking, or cracks or even discoloration. All have both ends with the wires still attached as well. Took a chance powering up with the cap's. Will have to test them too.

Have been e-mailing Mark, he does not stock the part number to replace my dial. Will have to drill the rivets and scan into computer for re-construction then make new decal myself.

Have looked at Retro-Tronics previous to posting. Have only seen back boards. Will e-mail them and see if they have a speaker board or even be able to just sell some hard stock.

And that stuck tube, I don't want to use too much force on that to trash the socket as you have mentioned. Will have to work it some more and hope it starts to move.

Thanks,
Gary

[Ram]

Well, we are on our way. Ordered a replacement dial from RadioDaze along with the grill cloth and a couple filter caps.

Have found that someone has doctored some of the ckt by replacing the metal filter condenser with axial caps.

Measured resistance on the "Osc transformer" (item 15). May have to repair a winding or rewind or replace it, still have to dig it out to know better with its doing.

Ordered a few tubes. And a book on this things.

Still have to fix power cord, it will have to wait until its up and playing.

[Ron Ramirez]

Were you able to remove the 78 tube?

Michael's craft stores sells mat boards intended for use in framing photographs, that work really well as speaker backing board. I have used this material several times, with excellent results.

[Ram]

Almost forgot, the 78 was a pain, but finally it did come out. Had to smack the pins from under the chassis harder than I thought was necessary.

Ordered a replacement for it since the bake-lite base is pretty loose and no telling if it took some internal damage from removal.

[Ron Ramirez]

Hopefully, your work on your 60 is coming along well?

I have three I need to redo sometime...

[Ram]

As is most things in life, some of my projects have to rest for a while.

Have had a rash of vehicle issues then family members being hospitalized.

Torn between sending it out for cap, can replacement, and alignment or doing myself when time permits. Still trying to collect a part here and their. Have a complete tube replacement standing by for lighting it up again.

[Ram]

Any one know of a source for replacing the oscillator coil?

Even if its a newer small coil that I can fit in same can?

[Radioroslyn]

Typically the original can be repaired by rewinding the feedback winding at the bottom the the coil. It's about 25 turns of small magnet wire.
Terry

[Ram]

Thanks,

Gary

[Radioroslyn]

Your welcome!
How's the old gal coming along?
Terry

[Ram]

The ol gal is resting for now.

Have had several issues with family members in and out of hospital, and juggling that with work has been about all that I could keep up for the moment.

Almost torn between sending it off to a shop, or getting all the stuff and doing it myself.

Have a good amount of parts collected already.

[Radioroslyn]

Well if you want to give it a whirl where here to help. Glad to when it can.
Terry

[Ram]

Well, a tube tester, capacitance tester and a few cap's and resistors are on the way right now.

Will see how it turns out here in the next month. Thanks for the offer, I'm sure that I'll be checking back sooner then later.

Gary