Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Finally (!) Some Progress Restoring the Cabinet of my 41-280
#1

Good day, all...

Well, I finally have made enough progress on my restoration project (Philco 41-280) that it no longer looks as if I've just been sitting on my hands for the past couple of weeks!

As I began this project, it became apparent to me that the preferred method of transporting this old radio must have been 'rolling it end-over-end down a gravel road!' While still solid, it was pretty banged up; only a couple of really nasty chips to the solid wood (and both of those - thankfully- on the very bottom). But there were countless little bumps and bruises. There was one pretty bad veneer chip in the left top [horizontal] panel, and rear of both of the curved side panels had severe veneer damage.

So, being new to all this, I took the radio cabinet completely apart... pretty courageous (or absolutely nutz!) for a genuine newbie. Of course, as soon as the curved panels were free from their seventy year captivity, they started "relaxing"... trying to straighten back out (as you can guess, this made reassembly a bit of a challenge.

Anyway, I removed all the veneer from the damaged panels and re-veneered. I had to make a holding fixture for the curved panels so that I could really "bear down" during the process (I used old-style contact cement).

I used acetone to remove the old lacquer and hand sanded the solid wood parts to remove all the little bumps and bruises (and there were a bunch of those!). I restained everything with General Finishes "Brown Mahogany" gel stain (I don't know why they call it that, it's all brown and no mahogany!).

I agonized over what to do about the totally useless photo finish on the vertical pieces that flank the speaker opening. After weighing all the options, I wound up taking the easy way out... I just stained them with Bartlett's "Jet Mahogany" gel stain (four applications) to get an acceptable contrast.

The fnal finish was with DEFT [spray can] lacquer. This is the first time I have ever used this product, and I really like it!

So, that's where I am... This project will be a disappointment to the experienced and certainly to those who highly prize originality (and, be assured, I deeply admire both of those groups!), but it is turning out OK for my first try... and better than that, my wife loves it!

More later... I hope.

Rob

[Image: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/z-...C_5731.jpg]

[Image: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/z-...C_5730.jpg]

[Image: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/z-...C_5729.jpg]

[Image: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y173/z-...C_5728.jpg]
#2

Looks great!
Nice shine
#3

The good thing is you used laquer so you can go back and use either Mohawk or Deft shading laquer if something looks a little too light, something you may want to consider around the top edge and the other cheap wood parts that don't want to accept stain. That faux graining near the grille can be replaced with 3M Dynoc or by painting but looks fine darkend up. If you had used polyurethane (YUCK!) on the cabinet you couldn't do anthing to it other then paint it or strip it.
Regards
Arran
#4

Arran Wrote:The good thing is you used laquer so you can go back and use either Mohawk or Deft shading laquer if something looks a little too light, something you may want to consider around the top edge and the other cheap wood parts that don't want to accept stain.

Actually, I'm quite happy with the 'color' and overall uniformity provided by the gel stains. Of course, the nature of gel stains is that it not only 'goes into the wood,' it also 'builds up' on the surface. That makes it most useful for this kind of work... the color and the 'depth' of the hue is easily controlled by using multiple applications ('coats').


Arran Wrote:That faux graining near the grille can be replaced with 3M Dynoc or by painting but looks fine darkend up. If you had used polyurethane (YUCK!) on the cabinet you couldn't do anthing to it other then paint it or strip it.
Regards
Arran
I assume that you are speaking about the flat panel that goes into the opening just under the 'top'... where the ' PHILCO ' decal goes. My plans for that piece is to use interesting book-matched veneer, stained to blend with those plain-but-darkened vertical pieces.

Thanks,

Rob
#5

This radio looks great. I too have a phiclo 41-280 just like yours that I am restoring. What species of veneer did you use for the radio. Also do you know of anywhere to repair or get a chassis for this model of radio.
#6

Just excellent Icon_biggrin

Ash
#7

jsa-294 Wrote:This radio looks great. I too have a phiclo 41-280 just like yours that I am restoring. What species of veneer did you use for the radio. Also do you know of anywhere to repair or get a chassis for this model of radio.

Good evening!

Thanks for the kind words!

I used mahogany veneer that I bought at my local Woodcraft store. I hand selected the veneer for a close match in grain structure more than trying to match color... heck, with the magic of modern gel stains, I can make it about any color I wish.

For more, you might find it useful to review this thread: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=4047 In it, I discuss the completion of this little project.

The guy who did the restoration is Randal Walls at Texas Vintage Audio http://www.texasvintageaudio.com/index.html

Cheers!

Rob
#8

that looks beautiful bet you cant wait to sit back and play some music light up a cigar or crack open a pepsi which ever you prefer
#9

Wow, very nice! The photo finish makes it tough to restore, I like how you addressed that.

I like stain too. But often with these old sets it is difficult to get it to absorb evenly. For darker colors lacquer toner is definitely better.




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Cleaned ann contacts, switches and sockets, works great now.martinj — 11:32 AM
Model 28L
Hello, I'm restoring a Philco 28L and the output transformer is open. Part number of the transformer is 32-7020. Can...HORSTE — 10:32 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>