Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

37-690 Power Supply Chassis Rebuild
#1

This chassis is much more of a challenge than the 38-690!
   
   
   
   

camman
#2

It does look much more difficult than the 38-690 with all of those bakelite blocks. I just did most of my PS chassis last night on my 38-690 and there were only two of the bakelite blocks. Pretty simple chassis to recap. All transformers checked out good which is nice.
The worst thing is moving the chassis around with all the wires that protrude from it. I melt out the tar out with the bakelite block still in the chassis...just the wires on one side labeled and unsoldered.
After doing three 16B chassis you get rather quick at doing the blocks.

Good luck with you 37-690. It's a great radio Icon_smile
#3

Thirtiesradio,
Thanks for the "thumbs up!"
I took my bakelite blocks all the way out.
Are you going to install a the original 1uf NP bypass cap or install the suggested 4.7uf or 10uf cap for the tweeters?
camman
#4

If you want to actually hear your tweeters, you will install a 4.7 or 10 uF cap, as well as making sure the tweeters are in phase:

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/tweeters.htm

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

I've already installed a non polar 4.7 UF I had while the chassis was on the bench. I'm going to test it out before stuffing the existing metal condenser as I may want to use a 10 UF. I have the 4 wires for each tweeter figured out, which was confusing at first with the two field coil wires as mine have all faded to a similar color. They are wired out of phase (blue/white wires) so when I get it fired up I'll have to try a wire swap.
Right now I'm spending time testing and collecting good tubes for when I test it out. With 20 tubes even that takes time! Tomorrow I can get back to the cap restuffing.
BTW Camman you did a great job on your 38-690 chassis you posted a short while back Icon_biggrin




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
Zenith H725
hello Ed, how about that speacial tape used for ducting it's like foil or how about thin piece of aluminum roof flash...radiorich — 12:19 AM
Zenith H725
Ed; One material that I have seen, but never tried for this was material for making exhaust gaskets, it's similar to ...Arran — 11:42 PM
Zenith H725
I just remembered, I have some hi temp silicone rubber material which could do the trick. Or a piece of FR4 laminate. Th...EdHolland — 08:39 PM
Zenith H725
The PSU filter cap arrived today (thank you USPS!) so I will work on that later. Meanwhile, I have the dial, speaker...EdHolland — 06:42 PM
Philco 610B oscillator wiring
Thanks Terry. After checking my notes I think I recorded about -10v at the 6A7 G4/control grid. The screen grid (G3 &...Tubester — 05:59 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
Magical chords of forgotten melodies, old nostalgic music on an old radio... Saturday night blues on the Mid-Waves on an...RadioSvit — 12:20 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Thank you MrFixr55 the issue with this radio is that the internal coil antenna is missing and there was a wire in its pl...osanders0311 — 11:34 AM
Philco 610B oscillator wiring
Regarding the oscillator circuit which is comprised of the 6A7's cathode, control grid, and screen grid. These elements ...Radioroslyn — 10:33 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Hi OSanders, First off, welcome to the Philco Phorum where Phine Phamily-Phriendly Pholks Phull of Philco Phacts and P...MrFixr55 — 08:41 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Today I've been reading through the site trying to learn more about this radio. I also soldered the lose power cord cabl...osanders0311 — 08:24 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2406 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 2405 Guest(s)
Avatar

>