Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Restoring a 39-7
#16

I prefer to keep rubber and wires separate. Icon_lol
#17

Thanks, I'll see if my local electronics shop has any...

Edit:

No luck. I have to go to the Internet. Any decent sources for these? I cannot locate any 6000pF caps, only 4700pF.

So what can I do? 4700 is enough, 10000 too much, or should I wire 3 2200's in parallel (I'd rather not tempt the fates of MTBF this way)?

Also there is one other silver mica capacitor in there - it's part 6A on the schematic. The problem is it's listed as a 20mfd device and there's no way this is 20mfd, it's just way too small. Elsewhere on the schematic it's listed as 20mmfd, which makes a lot more sense for this type of capacitor.
#18

It sings again!

After putting up with the repaired speaker that tended to muddle the sound and distort at medium-high volumes, I decided to take a closer look

The speaker was slowly disintegrating - small cracks were developing, and the most careful light touch caused the cone to split.

So I had the speaker reconed.

It's now a whole different radio. Plays loud, tight, and clear at all volumes.

I probably put more money I to this than I should, but it would have been a pity to leave it in such poor condition.

   
#19

Speaker looks very nice. Who did you send it to for reconing?
#20

The Speaker Shop:

http://thespeakershop.com
#21

Nice set! You've got the delux model with the brass escutcheon around the dial. Many years ago I had the chairside version of that set. Wish I hadn't sold it! Good player and very sensitive too.
Terry
#22

Actually, this one doesn't. It's pretty plain. I have a nearly identical model with the preset tuning buttons and the brass escutcheon though. You are right about the play quality and sensitivity though. A solid little radio. The guy who had it before me wrote 38-12 on the chassis, but it is a 39-6 as far as I can tell.

Edit: no, it isn't, it *is* a 38-12 chassis. Just double-checked the schematic. Someone put a dial from a 39-6 on it and stuck it in a 39-6 cabinet. >:-(

Aw crap! Just noticed I posted about the the speaker in my 39-7 thread. At least the 39-7 is a real one.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco Battery-WWII vintage
Well Philco did start out in the lead acid battery manufacturing business, and I think that they were still doing so dur...Arran — 12:06 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
It is odd that they chose the autodyne mixer/oscillator in one version of this set, with the #15 tube, but chose to use ...Arran — 11:02 PM
Information on the Other Front Runners of the Era
It's not  philco but I use it quite often for Marconi radios which are Canadian. It is just another resource for u...Dan Walker — 10:25 PM
Zenith H725
Glad to hear the radio is back home. David :clap:David — 08:47 PM
Zenith H725
A great ending to the H 725 saga. I would feel all warm and fuzzy. PaulPaul Philco322 — 07:13 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Hello everyone!  I've been working on a Philco 38 farm radio with the code 121 version chassis. As you all may know thi...Stormlord5500 — 06:36 PM
PT-6 finished!!
It’s a 1941 model. I won’t be using it enough to justify figuring out. All that’s left is getting the knob I have on or...bridkarl — 06:21 PM
PT-6 finished!!
I have heard of some people adding current limiting resistors ahead of the heater string in AC/DC sets but I never bothe...Arran — 06:16 PM
PT-6 finished!!
the bulb is acting as a current limiter. Sort of a cheap solution to save the rectifer and the power supply filter. I’...bridkarl — 05:49 PM
PT-6 finished!!
Fantastic progress so far! You bring up an interesting question regarding fusing. I don’t hear much about people fusing ...jrblasde — 05:30 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>