Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cabinet restoration questions / Philco 41-608
#1

Hi,
My first attempt so lots of questions.

I'm wondering your thoughts on using the product Howard Restor-A-Finish.
Which color choice would likely best match the original? I'm thinking that
Walnut-medium brown or possibly the Mahogony.

Do I go over the knob name decals with the product and does it remove or ruin them and would I then put new decals on and have to put some
sort of finsh over them to "seal" them on? They are quite dull at this point.

I'm not familiar with the artifical "photo finish". I think I see what areas are using this... the front surface of the speaker area which has those long
vertical wooden strips. These strips have some sort of horizontal streaks that must simulate a grain. I see this sort of look also above and below the glass dial. Are the two curved and grooved vertical strips on each side of the glass dial real wood?

What about the "inlay" (if that is the correct description) strip of wood or simulated wood, that is on each side of the cabinet about 5 inches from top? How does one handle this part when using the Restor-A-Finish?

One more thought is what is a good, safe way to clean and brighten the
plastic (bakelite?) station pushbuttons and other control knobs?

Thanks very much everyone!

Harlan
#2

Hi Harlan

I've used Howard's Restore-A-Finish before on some cabinets. For the 41-608, I believe you would need the Walnut color.

It will not harm any decals or photofinish.

There is a polish sold by Dremel, for use with a polishing wheel (white felt) Dremel attachment. Or you can try just plain toothpaste, a toothbrush, and a cloth, but this is better for cleaning prior to polishing. The Dremel polish, used with their buffing/polishing felt wheels, will make those bakelite knobs look like new.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5570 online users. [Complete List]
» 4 Member(s) | 5566 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatarAvatar

>